Power steering pump and rack overhaul?
#21
If you have a micrometer, mic the shaft to ensure it is concentric. Mine was oval by 0.03mm (0.001") I originally bought a rebuild kit from a Jaguar specialist but the O rings did not fit my pump so I bought a generic rebuild kit from the USA which came with all the O rings to every type of Saginaw included was a new bush. I bought a Saginaw pump off a local GM car and used the shaft. There are differences between pumps. The vanes on yours are the same as mine and much thinner than the early pumps. I made a puller out of a bit of 50x25mm box section to remove the hub from the shaft.
Last edited by warrjon; 03-05-2019 at 02:17 PM.
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leo_denmark (03-05-2019)
#23
Referring to the last posts: My pump axle was nice and round, measuring 19.04’ish
Things assembled w/o issues, and it was also tight at start up. All good, except from that I now have no assistance...
I decided to take it for at little drive to bleed air out, and it started to work. The pump was whining more than before, when it was working, and after maybe 10 times assistance it turned silent and assistance stopped working.
The pulley is still turning, and there is oil in the filler neck. The oil seems to be more foamed than I remember seeing it before.
I’ll now drain the newly bled coolant, remove the pump and disassemble it again, unless of course you tell me the little trick I have missed in the bleeding procedure...
Leo
Things assembled w/o issues, and it was also tight at start up. All good, except from that I now have no assistance...
I decided to take it for at little drive to bleed air out, and it started to work. The pump was whining more than before, when it was working, and after maybe 10 times assistance it turned silent and assistance stopped working.
The pulley is still turning, and there is oil in the filler neck. The oil seems to be more foamed than I remember seeing it before.
I’ll now drain the newly bled coolant, remove the pump and disassemble it again, unless of course you tell me the little trick I have missed in the bleeding procedure...
Leo
#24
You probably killed it now.
Bleeding is done when standing. Best with the wheels off the ground. Start up, turn from full steering lock to full steering lock about 5-6 times, keeping an eye on the fluid level.
When done, back on the ground and then steer. Should be nicely assisted.
Bleeding is done when standing. Best with the wheels off the ground. Start up, turn from full steering lock to full steering lock about 5-6 times, keeping an eye on the fluid level.
When done, back on the ground and then steer. Should be nicely assisted.
Last edited by Daim; 03-16-2019 at 06:52 AM.
#25
You probably killed it now.
Bleeding is done when standing. Best with the wheels off the ground. Start up, turn from full steering lock to full steering lock about 5-6 times, keeping an eye on the fluid level.
When done, back on the ground and then steer. Should be nicely assisted.
Bleeding is done when standing. Best with the wheels off the ground. Start up, turn from full steering lock to full steering lock about 5-6 times, keeping an eye on the fluid level.
When done, back on the ground and then steer. Should be nicely assisted.
Well, I did a few turns from side to side before driving, but without lifting wheels of the ground. First I drove it out of the garage as I have a good slope on the driveway for bleeding the coolant. I was parked on slippery surface, so it was not hard to turn the wheel, but there was of course load on the pump.
Here the oil level and assistance didn’t change, so I thought I might as well drive it. Wrong thinking it seems...
Leo
#26
The bubbles on top will be air. Give it a go again. Top the oil up, start the car and where it is standing, turn the wheel side to side and see if it gets better. If it whines, then there is either belt slippage or the pump itself is dead. Carry on turning it a few times. Side to side. See if you can also drain off some of the bubbles. And then check the level properly. It can be a PITA to do this job but it is possible - even without any special "DIY tools".
Btw., easiest way out is to remove the water bottle/reservoir left of the radiator. That allows for more motion.
Btw., easiest way out is to remove the water bottle/reservoir left of the radiator. That allows for more motion.
#27
Agree, the steel expansion tank must be removed. Easy job. Return hose from radiator detached at engine end, and of course the LH air box cover is removed as first step. The annoying part is releasing the belt tension and draining the coolant...
Before doing the above I will give it a go more, where I suck out as much as possible air filled oil first
I’m quite sure whining was from the pump. It was nothing like a slipping belt. If I shall maintain the positive attitude I will have to think the noise came from air in the oil. Otherwise it was pump vanes giving the sound, and they will probably not do that for long...
Before doing the above I will give it a go more, where I suck out as much as possible air filled oil first
I’m quite sure whining was from the pump. It was nothing like a slipping belt. If I shall maintain the positive attitude I will have to think the noise came from air in the oil. Otherwise it was pump vanes giving the sound, and they will probably not do that for long...
#28
Oil topped up. Oil looked fine and clear, so I left the old oil in.
Car lifted, engine started and steering turned full range and back appr 10 times
Back on ground: No assistance. Oil overrun and foamy oil. Could the outlet be blocked ? The was a small filter as I remember it. But then again, what should block it except from pump parts...
#29
#32
#34
Yes, and it is really stirring the oil while doing so. I have never seen the oil being foamed like this before. I have topped up the oil many times as it was leaking, also after driving with temporary assistance dropouts due to too low oil level.
There are not water in the oil, but it for sure almost looks like mayonnaise, except from it’s not getting thick.
Leo
There are not water in the oil, but it for sure almost looks like mayonnaise, except from it’s not getting thick.
Leo
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Softball60 (03-17-2019)
#35
Yes, and it is really stirring the oil while doing so. I have never seen the oil being foamed like this before. I have topped up the oil many times as it was leaking, also after driving with temporary assistance dropouts due to too low oil level.
There are not water in the oil, but it for sure almost looks like mayonnaise, except from it’s not getting thick.
Leo
There are not water in the oil, but it for sure almost looks like mayonnaise, except from it’s not getting thick.
Leo
When the valve opens up, it foces all the fluid to bubble up. If there is too much it will leak out. If there isn't enough it will grind/buzz.
I would assume... EITHER a leak somewhere (hoses still okay? Especially the return hose from the cooler) or as said the valve has died.
Maybe even something I had. A snap ring broke the body inside. Result was the pump not working at all. No pressure possible.
#36
Hoses looked ok, and I do not have oil leaks. I now have oil spill due to the overflow, so it’s getting harder to spot a leak.
The return hose could of course have died during my handling of it. I will start with removal of the outlet hose and pressure valve. It will be easy to see, if there are steel fragments in there...
The return hose could of course have died during my handling of it. I will start with removal of the outlet hose and pressure valve. It will be easy to see, if there are steel fragments in there...
#37
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Softball60 (03-17-2019)
#38
I had forgotten how little room there is to work on around pump, so I quickly decided to remote the pump from the car and take it apart.
2 hours including jacking the car, draining coolant and struggling to remove pressure line as pressure valve came loose before the pressure line nut. Not too bad.. I ended up loosening the pressure hose line front the front member, that gave me enough slack to get the pump up to the surface and get access with larger tools to get the pressure line loosened.
The rear sheet metal cover of the pump was deformed. That was caused by the heavy gauge sheet metal cover/retainer being pushed out by.... I don’t know. Excess pressure ?? I’m pretty sure the circlip was in correct position. Maybe the pressure regulator was malfunctioning or assembled wrong, but I will claim I did put things in in same order position as they came out...
I think I’ll replace the pump at this stage. I could assemble again and cross my fingers it was just an assembly error, but it was noisy when it actually worked, and that would not make me happy in the long run.
Leo
2 hours including jacking the car, draining coolant and struggling to remove pressure line as pressure valve came loose before the pressure line nut. Not too bad.. I ended up loosening the pressure hose line front the front member, that gave me enough slack to get the pump up to the surface and get access with larger tools to get the pressure line loosened.
The rear sheet metal cover of the pump was deformed. That was caused by the heavy gauge sheet metal cover/retainer being pushed out by.... I don’t know. Excess pressure ?? I’m pretty sure the circlip was in correct position. Maybe the pressure regulator was malfunctioning or assembled wrong, but I will claim I did put things in in same order position as they came out...
I think I’ll replace the pump at this stage. I could assemble again and cross my fingers it was just an assembly error, but it was noisy when it actually worked, and that would not make me happy in the long run.
Leo
#39
Replacement very sensible, IMO, Leo. Rockauto have them far cheaper than any UK supplier, even including shipping.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ring+pump,7380
Greg
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ring+pump,7380
Greg