The main leak in the fuel line has been stopped.

There is still a drip or two out of the apparent rubber drain hose under the fuel tank area on the LH side of the car. I don't think it's left over from the fuel line to pump leak I fixed, but it may be.

I understand there are two tanks on this car, top tank and bottom tank.

There isn't much gas in the car, maybe 4 gallons, so i wouldn't think it would be a connector hose between top and bottom tank leaking, BUT, I don't know how it is plumbed.

Question: I assume the tanks are accessed by removing the front trunk/boot panel? Or do i have to go thru the top under the conv top compartment?

I did a bit of searching and found one of you just took the top fuel tank out altogether...

Any tips or wisdom on what may be leaking (other than the tank it self)? Are there any fuel line exits from the bottom side of the lower tank? I did note there was gas flow from the tank side when i replaced the line from the non-factory filter to the fuel pump., so it either siphoned, or there is fuel level above the filter. Pic attached for a reminder.

Thanks,
Doug

 

Are you familiar with Kirby Palm's book on the XJ-S? Its a ~700 page pdf full of useful information. I don't know much about the H&E cars, but I do know they have a weird fuel tank setup. Its covered in the book. I would start by reading that section and see how it compares to your current problems.
https://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/Jaguar.html

 

The H&E manual that I posted a link to in your first thread, has an entire section on the fuel system with all the diagrams etc. that you'll need.

Here is the link again:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Elec...Eisenhardt.pdf

Start at page 73

 

The car came with that Kirby Palm book.

Its printed weird, probably a bootleg copy as it is in a three ring binder.

EWvery other front/back page is printed upside down, hard to read. I already found a page or two on the H&E fuel system but no drawings.

Now back to the pic I posted above, it may not be the fuel tank leaking. I replaced the leaking hose the other day, but the top of the pump is still wet.

I know nothing about the pump, does that look like a factory Jag pump, except for all the JB weld on top?

The top/sides are one piece, and the bottom is a black polymer piece crimped in by the sides.

So, i took the pump out and peeled off the JB weld and found a male threaded brass hardware store hose barb threaded into the remains of the broken off inlet barb that the pump looks to have originally had.

Fuel was leaking out around the barb threads, thus the JB weld "seal" which was probably meant to stop the leak.

The pump needs to be replaced and put back where ever it is supposed to be, but for now, I plugged the inlet hose line with a rubber stopper and will see if the gas drip stops.

Doug

 

Downloaded and saved. Thank you for reposting it.

Doug

 

Thats, uh, quite a fuel tank and delivery system.

I suppose if the bottom tank pump fails, you can always keep going by refilling the top tank more frequently.

Doug

 

That is the most bizarre fuel delivery system i have ever seen, after reading that .pdf in detail.

I am an engineer. I would have been fired for coming up with a kluge like that. Or would have fired someone under me who did.

Was that you, Mac Allan that removed the top tank all together?

I can see some mods in the near future. I highly doubt the lower tank transfer pump even works, I will have to investigate that. Not sure how to check that part out, yet, I need to study this more

I have installed retrofit EFI in-tank fuel pumps on cars that were originally carb'd. I have also installed external EFI fuel pumps on previously carb'd cars.

This needs an external pump with full siphon tube to bottom of bottom tank with regulator return line,and get rid of that in-tank pump stuff.

I honestly see no real point to the complexity of the original design.

No wonder the car was cheap. Ah, well, I needed another project.

Doug

 

No, I sold my H&E [checks watch] ...25 years ago without modifications.

Not to discourage you, because you strike me as someone who can handle the challenge, but I wasn't a fan of the H&E and was happy to see it drive off with its new owner back then. I was honest with him about the unique charms of the H&E, but he was so enamored with the car that he didn't care or listen. I can list those issues, if you wish, but again I don't want to rain on your parade.

 

Ah. Maybe I just saw your name as one I recognized in a thread about the subject c.2015. Someone took out the top tank for some reason or another.

Go ahead and tell me about the "issues". Forewarned is forearmed, or something like that.

I didn't really want a convertible, but it was real close and inexpensive, probably for a reason. At least it runs well, and the windows all work,as well as the top, at least for now.

Thanks for the help and insights,
Doug

PS: This car is teetering between restoration and the Nuclear Option: BBC Streetrod!

 

The H & E was "coach-built" which is a fancy way of saying they took a standard coupe and cut it up to make a convertible. Here is a thread with some great background you might enjoy:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ertible-75595/

Being coach-built, there was some variation of quality. The issues I had were intermittent fuel smells, fuel gauge bouncing up & down so much you could not really rely on it if you were in motion, and body/chassis flex/cowl shake. There was a recall regarding the H & E fuel tanks, and I remember it was like pulling teeth to get the dealer to perform the recall. After the recall, the incidents of fuel smell were less frequent, but not completely gone. Though the thread above said the H & E was 102% as stiff as the coupe, that was not my experience.

 

I had the same problem with my 1988 H&E convertible. Fuel system leaking.
I removed both tanks from the car to have them cleaned at a radiator shop

these are the 2 fuel tanks from the H&E XJS
The smaller (lower tank) is connected to the upper tank via a preformed 1 1/2 inch hose. Inside that hose is a 3/8 ID hose connected to a lift pump (Ford Bronco)in the lower tank. With the key on, the lift pump sends fuel to the upper tank and the pump in the trunk sends fuel to the engine.
Since the 1 1/2 inch connecting hose is NLA, I took the old one to the parts store and matched the 2 curves to some of the fuel filler hoses they had and got something very close, which I cut to fit. The 3/8 inner hose is made of a hard plastic which was also NLA, so I used a fuel hose that is made to submersed in fuel.
There are 2 fuel sending units for the fuel gauge. They are called Rochester gauges and tey have to be synchronised to function properly. Both sending units have to be set at 1 o'clock and the average value is used to calculate the amount of fuel in the car. The fuel pump and the sending unit inside the car has to be sealed with silicone after installation to prevent the fuel smell inside the car. The same goes for the the one in the trunk. Even though I used marine grade fuel hoses sin the trunk, I still havea faint fuel smell inthe trunk area.

H&E XJS

H&E XJS

H&E XJS

H&E XJS

 

The lower tank is located under this panel inside the car

Panel to be removed to access the lower fuel tank. Held by screws along the perimeter. Two plates cover the access holes for the fuel pump and sender unit

 

The lower tank is located under this panel inside the car

Panel to be removed to access the lower fuel tank. Held by screws along the perimeter. Two plates cover the access holes for the fuel pump and sender unit

 

Cool! Thanks! That helps a lot, not as complex as i feared.

Bronco fuel pump?? What year? Obviously can't be any newer than 1987, though.

Doug

 

I have driven/drive worse. I didn't buy this with the intent of it being a country club luxo cruiser.

Doug

 

The fuel pump (lift pump) for the lower tank is a CARTER P74096 or its equivalent, used in the early Broncos and Chevy S10. (9-12 psi)
If you are going to work on the lower tank, please be aware of the following:
1. The upper fuel tank has to be empty. Fuel in the lower tank has to be siphoned out.
2. The 3/8 hose inside the 1 1/2 hose will be brittle. There is a slide clip inside the upper tank that has to be removed to release the 3/8 hose from the pipe in the upper tank.
3. If the 3/8 hose is in good condition, let it be. Disconnect it from the lift pump together with the 1 1/2 hose from the lower tank. This is a PITA. The 3/8 hose is approx 18" long and the 1 1/2 hose is approx 5" long and curved. It is very easy to break the inner 3/8 hose. Ask me how I know this.
4. The 1 1/2 hose more than likely will be hard and no longer flexible. I had to cut mine to remove it. The replacement hose will be flexible so a lot easier to install. If you reuse the old hose it will more than likely never seal properly again.

 

Thanks for the fuel pump ID!

I found a new NAPA version of the same thing online and ordered it.

Whether the one in the car works, or not, it is getting replaced very shortly.

I found out a long time ago, when getting an older vehicle road worthy, you always replace with new (or rebuild/have rebuilt) the fuel pump, water pump, alternator, and starter and you will eliminate about 95% of your unexpected getting stranded moments.

Doug

 

I purchased my fuel (lift) pump from NAPA also . I got the 3/8 fuel submersible hsoe from them as well.
I am also a retired ME and this fuel system is definitely not a design in any form or fashion.
The flaws are immediately apparent. It is a total botched job.
The plan on mine is to eventually remove both tanks and install a 17 gallon bottom feed fuel cell and use the sump tank and the Jaguar external fuel pump to feed the system.
The fuel cell I am looking at is only 9 inches high so it will not interfere with the convertible top going all the way down into the car.
What Hess did was taper the original tank. (It actually looks like a triangle) They did this so the top will fold flat.

 

What sort of gaskets are used on the sender and pump covers?

Did you get new ones from some jag parts outlet, or make your own, or use a fuel proof sealant?

I am getting ready to get the fuel system in order in a week or so.

Thanks,
Doug

 

I purchased the gasket material from NAPA and made my own gaskets. The material looks like a mix of cork and rubber, I also used fuel proof sealant which does not dry hard. Whe cured it is very flexible. I made the gaskets and applied the fuel proof sealant on the gasket using a squegee to get it level and let it cure overnight. The next day, I applied the fresh sealant to the tank and the sender and pump unit and installed them. This gasket material does not squish out and deform when you tighten the screws.
Your biggest hurdle will be IF you are going to remove the lower tank. There is enough of the 3/8 hose in the lower tank to SLOWLY lift the fuel pump out. Mark the orientation of the pump before removing and hope that the filter on the new pump is in the same orientation as the old pump. If not turn the new pump filter to the correct position. In mine it had to go lengthways to fit properly. Also the fuel pump fits on a bracket and if original, the ground wire is soldered to the bracket Be careful, it is or may be brittle.
If there is no leak at the connecting hose leave it alone.