Problems with Brakes
#1
Problems with Brakes
I have a 1996 XJS convertible.
I recently swapped out the upper control arm bushings and both ball joints on the drivers side front wheel.
Now when I'm driving, the brakes seem fine, until the last couple of inches of the slowdown/stop. At the final stop, the steering wheel turns itself to the right (clockwise) and the brakes feel like they're sliding, or slipping a bit.
A forceful slam seems to work ok. It only is apparent under a normal slowdown to stop.
Any ideas?
I recently swapped out the upper control arm bushings and both ball joints on the drivers side front wheel.
Now when I'm driving, the brakes seem fine, until the last couple of inches of the slowdown/stop. At the final stop, the steering wheel turns itself to the right (clockwise) and the brakes feel like they're sliding, or slipping a bit.
A forceful slam seems to work ok. It only is apparent under a normal slowdown to stop.
Any ideas?
#2
#3
Could it be related to the new upper control arm bushings on that side? I can't think of any specific reason why the brakes would be the problem.
I don't know that much about suspension geometry, but I think the shims on the upper ball joint control the caster, which effects the rate at which the suspension dives and rebounds. Again, I'm not sure about this, but it's worth asking again if you put those shims back in the way they came out. It's also possible that the car was aligned and those shims were installed to compensate for the worn components (ball joints, bushings) that you replaced. Now that you replaced those worn components, the shims could be throwing it off.
Checking again to make sure everything is nice and tight is a good idea.
I don't know that much about suspension geometry, but I think the shims on the upper ball joint control the caster, which effects the rate at which the suspension dives and rebounds. Again, I'm not sure about this, but it's worth asking again if you put those shims back in the way they came out. It's also possible that the car was aligned and those shims were installed to compensate for the worn components (ball joints, bushings) that you replaced. Now that you replaced those worn components, the shims could be throwing it off.
Checking again to make sure everything is nice and tight is a good idea.
#4
Did you keep all the alignment shims in the original locations? Could the calipers have started to act up and its now showing since that part of the suspension is tighter? There is a lot going on there between braking and suspension, make sure all is tight when you go to inspect.
Not sure if this could be the problem.
I'll check tightness tomorrow.
Thanks.
#5
#6
I have a 1996 XJS convertible. Now when I'm driving, the brakes seem fine, until the last couple of inches of the slowdown/stop. At the final stop, the steering wheel turns itself to the right (clockwise) and the brakes feel like they're sliding, or slipping a bit.
A forceful slam seems to work ok. It only is apparent under a normal slowdown to stop.
Any ideas?
A forceful slam seems to work ok. It only is apparent under a normal slowdown to stop.
Any ideas?
My money is on a sticking ABS-type problem/caliper not quite releasing /pad or rotor slight frictional difference.
Greg
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Can you not take the car to your local test station and get them to put it on the brake machine? That should give you a reading of the retardation of each wheel and you can compare the readings to the designed specifications. If one of them is obviously lower than the others then at least it indicates that it may only be one caliper assembly that isn't working properly.
If they are all lower than original spec then it points to a more central issue.
Steve
If they are all lower than original spec then it points to a more central issue.
Steve
#9
Greg,
Could my monkeying around with the stub axle nut have created this problem? (from my bearing replacement thread)
Thanks.
Could my monkeying around with the stub axle nut have created this problem? (from my bearing replacement thread)
Thanks.
Take the thing out onto the highway and do about 4 emergency stops from high speed. Then onto a gravel road if there is one nearby, and do a few 30 mph to stop hard braking. Get the ABS pulsing.
My money is on a sticking ABS-type problem/caliper not quite releasing /pad or rotor slight frictional difference.
Greg
My money is on a sticking ABS-type problem/caliper not quite releasing /pad or rotor slight frictional difference.
Greg
#10
Can you not take the car to your local test station and get them to put it on the brake machine? That should give you a reading of the retardation of each wheel and you can compare the readings to the designed specifications. If one of them is obviously lower than the others then at least it indicates that it may only be one caliper assembly that isn't working properly.
If they are all lower than original spec then it points to a more central issue.
Steve
If they are all lower than original spec then it points to a more central issue.
Steve
#11
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 11-22-2012 at 02:05 AM.
#12
That's exactly what it feels like...so that's that!
#13
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)