Hi, so i started to taking everything out of the engine bay, to make a full post-purchase service, including cooling, fuel lines, ignition and etc and more or less can see better whats under the hood, so for no major rust problems, except one place which is under metal expansion tank.

Is there any other way to get it sorted except welding? i cant do that, and cant imagine taking it to body shop for that 2 spots, also, the car will need some repainting and underbody work in few years, as i want to get it perfect one day (at least thats the plan)

any suggestions?

 

If the area is on the inner wing on the inner face of where the shock is, then unfortunately it is worse than you think and needs proper remediation. Post a pic and we can advise.

Paul

 

Gonna need pics for this

 

Sorry forgot to attach photos

 

I can assure you that as a fix it is massive - mine suffered the same - the repair is 'possible' engine in but I wouldn't recommend the method, if one side is bad the other will be too, if it is not 'flat' then there is rust jacking behind the panel that has not yet broken through but it will. The damage isn't where you see but between it and the reinforcing plate for the damper. Repairing with the subframe in place properly just isn't possible, and I would advise engine out too, you may also find that the subframe has issues too.

Could you fix without stripping the subframe - possibly but I don't think it would be a particularly good repair. You are opening pandora's box with this be under no illusion, if you cannot DIY this then you need to be really trusting of whoever fixes this - and don't trust them, know what you are getting into and what to look for because they won't. My subframe looked perfect but once I stripped it the horrors showed up, I bought a new subframe - ex California car.

My mess ....

 

@mouserider that repair is not a small one - it is even worse than mine were - all that needs to be cut out. It isn't impossible but if one side is that bad then the other is surely on the way.

 

This is like the first time I watched Jaws.

 

I have a pair of repair panels that I never used.

They are left and right hand parts.

$50 plus post if you need them. I'm in Canada.

Cheers,

Rob

 

Those are interesting - never seen those - I got replacements (had to trade one of the kids for them) and they look nothing like that. Did Jaguar know these were so prone that they created 'repair' parts - I don't see those listed. I'm not sure simply plating the area is the answer, sure it will work for a time but the damage will get far worse - such corrosion must be cut out or it will be back. I did not fit these in the end but they aren't for sale as I do plan to get a convertible at some point and who knows.

I didn't find those in the previous image as I was looking XJS - the 12092 and 12093 parts are listed for the XJ6 84-87

 

The XJS damper mounting brackets are BHC 1850 & 1851.

The brackets in the picture are for XJ series 1,2 & 3.

Paul

 

Paul,
Thank you for clarifying.
I did buy those parts for a series 3, but thought the XJS was the same. My error.
I'm glad you spoke up before we got any further with my offer.
Best of luck,
Rob

 

i do understand that. Damn, that was not on my plan at all

 

Wasn't on mine either - welcome to Jaguar ownership - I was only cleaning stuff when I spotted mine didn't look quite right - this is one reason that the group don't recommend relying on a Jag fresh out of hibernation being a daily driver.

It all depends what you have access to resource wise and how confident, the actual job to repair with focus would be at most a couple of weeks but it is all the other stuff that piles up when things don't go to plan.

The best option to do this repair right is to pull the engine and drop the subframe - I wasted a lot of time trying the keyhole options, you need 1mm plate for the inner wing, the damper turret metal is a little under 2mm.

 

Not sure i can go this road now, look, i understand the correct process, how much time and money it can take, i restored completely dodge charger 1971 (everything was done by someone else) it took 3 years and still not really drivable( as new parts issues coming here and there) , and it emptied my pockets. One of my friends said once about sailboats, after buying new sailboat, first year or so you will be sitting in the dock, as all new parts will get broken randomly, however used sailboat will look like **** but can take you anywhere, because everything already been tested.

Same with my charger, it has all new parts and they fail!

I dont want to go this road with my jag, not now at least, even if i will set it on fire now, it still will be less damage on my wallet, than doing full resto.

I will try to get it step by step, first cooling, then ingition, then fuel system, then IRS, and THEN one winter i will get engine out and rebuild front subframe and treat ALL rust in the car, im pretty sure, its not this ONE spot.

i cant weld, i cant cut, im new home mechanic, and just learning, so should get there step by step.

 

So haviung done the Dodge you know some amount of the pain that awaits. There is no limit to the amount of money you can pour into one of these projects, mine has so far taken two years and cost an insane amount, easily five digits and no decimal place - and I am 100% DIY (except for the steering rack - I stayed away from that) - I am essentially paying to entertain myself, I know I will never realise the monetary side but that isn't my goal any longer. When I first got the car it was an investment plan - that went out the window pretty quickly.

Depending where you are in the US this may not be an issue but here in the UK that wouldn't pass what you call 'inspection' so not fixing is not an option here to take it on the road.

 

mouserider,

I think we all understand the financial constraints of running any older car that starts to need structural remediation. However, the longer you leave this, the more expensive it will get and you may have sunk a load of money into other areas that you can't then recover.

As a compromise, why don't you get someone you trust who understands the structure of an XJS, to strip back the area on the inner wing and chassis rail to assess the situation. They may then be able to tidy it up, make it structurally safe and stop further rot. You could then live with that for a while until you can afford to do a full job.

Good luck

Paul

 

and i clearly see your point!

The funny thing is, im not from US and not from UK, but this car was imported from UK month ago, and in order to do so, it went through MOT there (got the paper it passed), in order to get it registered here, it passed MOT here as well

Im from Cyprus, and yes, good thing here, that you can literally drive that thing without wheels to MOT and it will get passed, but the downside is - there is literally no good services, no good body shops, nothing, i found just one radiator shop in whole town and its just 2x4 home garage, not much trust to be honest, so every work that described in the book like "go to your local smth, they will make it for you" doesnt work here.

anyway, it is what it is, i couldnt check the car when i bought it, so its always like that, we import all cars from uk and its a gamble every time, even with new cars, they could be flooded before, mileage could be clocked down, you name it.

 

Hey Paul, thanks for the advice, thats a plan! please read my previous post, the problem is not about money)
i will definitely start looking for a good body shop, however thats the mst difficult part here

 

Mouse
I had never welded before I started doing so at 56 years old. I am entirely self taught and it is not difficult to learn.
You need a (preferably) a three phase electricty supply and a 3 phase-using MIG. If no three phase supply, sinlge will do. Plenty of how-to books on MIG welding.Then cut out all the rust, clean up the edges to bare metal and weld in new stuff. NOT that hard. Buy some metal and practice first. Cost not much and job done. With this Forum you will be steered towards the using right parts, so no worries there about bad new ones. Spending ANY monry on the car before you fix the rust is madness, a complete waste. Either decide to fix it or bin it. Attached some photos of my welding efforts, you can do this, if you want to. Having an XJS means you must do the work yourself, or give up the idea of having an XJS.

 

Thank you for supporting, i was actually planning to get there eventually, just didnt plan that it will happen this soon. Im not really scared of welding, i did it once, but i am scared of pulling out the engine on my own. i wish that rust would be in the beginner friendly spot and not in hard reach inner wing section.