Just removed my driver's side radius arm, and it took about 2 minutes to pop it off. The passenger side took me a full day and a lot of trial and error, and some bloody knuckles, so I though I would post this for future reference, as I'm sure I'm not the only person to have this problem.

All you have to do is use two things: a propane torch and a BFH (big freaking hammer). Forget the pry bar, it's more trouble than it's worth. Once all nuts and bolts are removed, hit the mount with the torch for about 30 secs (the rubber will probably burn a bit, just be careful and have an extinguisher nearby just in case). Burn it inside the bolt hole, and all around the car side of the mount as much as you can reach. Basically evenly heat it. Then, hit the mount point as hard as you damn well can ten or so times. And I'm not kidding, use a mallet that belongs on a splitting maul. Big. Hit it up, towards the ceiling, not laterally. Repeat this cycle two or three times (heat, hit, heat, hit); mine eventually just fell off.

Hit it up towards the ceiling at the arrow.


Hope this helps someone out!

 

Thanks, I am about to replace my bushes and hope I do not need aBFH.
I also saw this warning.
WARNING: NEVER BURN THE CENTRE OUT OF ANY RUBBER BUSH, it may be a synthetic rubber which contains Hydrofluoric Acid when exposed to a temperature of over 400°c, this acid is extremely corrosive & remains dangerous for years, If it gets on your skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned - see Haynes Manuals under Hazards.

Sound bad to burn them out. I guess old jags do not have synthetic rubber, I hope.

Just listing the warning as advice.

 

Well aint that fun!...

I have just replaced the bushes on my XJS, mostly because they looked cracked and crazed, but in the end they were still complete and in much better condition than on my 2005 X350 training arms, but thats another story.

A few points for others.

• Remove rear tire
• Remove front bush mounting bracket bolt (14mm)
• Remove front bush center bolt (16mm)
• Remove at least the front shock/spring mounting away from the suspension hub.
• Remove the rear bush mounting bolt

At this stage, the arm will be probably just 'stuck' to the front chassis cone in the center of the bush.

1. The rolling bar or other lever into the center cup does free the center cup from the Chassis cone. Seems that even though it is greased inside at the factory, the paint inside glues to it.

2. The bolt on the small bushing end is 'strange' in that it has one side ground off so that it will clear the shock mounting bush. A 3/4" ring wrench works on this.

3. The large bush presses OUT but only one way and presses in ONE way, from one side only. (top down?) There is a lip inside the mounting bush that prevents using the new push to press the old one out. This is used to limit the depth the bush can be pressed in.
I used a Habor Freight 12Ton press to press them out, and it was reasonably easy, once you get them all lined up.
I did not need to cut or slit the outer ring on the bush as some have done.

4. Only loosely assemble the arm back on the car so you can get both ends bolted on, and then lower the suspension and tighten.

I would allow about an hour to remove the arm, an hour to press out and in and an hour to reassemble, per side.

Hope this helps anyone thinking of the same task.

Cheers