Re-paint or...?
#1
Re-paint or...?
I'm faced with a dilemma, and thought I would solicit opinions and advice from the wisdom of the forum.
The clearcoat is showing signs of failing on my 1990 XJS Convertible, and since it's a black car, the failing areas are more obvious. The car only has 65K miles and I've had it since it only had 8K miles (20 years).
It's a perfectly wonderful Sunday driver with the top down, but it is at the point that it could use a new convertible top, new boot cover, new seat leather, and a complete respray. None of which I intended to do anytime soon because I'm not sure the economics make sense, and I've spent all my efforts on making it mechanically excellent. I can DIY the top and interior at reasonable costs that would be a good investment if the paint was in better condition.
However, a really good quality re-spray might cost more than the car is worth now or foreseeable future. The area I live in, not only has crazy high labor rates, but has been actively zoning/regulating automotive shops out of business, which only makes costs higher. So a repaint wasn't on the radar and something to consider 'one day'. I always figured that several years from now when I had more free time I'd teach myself how to do a quality job. My daughters would never forgive me if I ever got rid of the beast, so I've been content keeping it in the garage and taking her out only on beautiful days since I no longer use it as my daily driver.
My oldest is getting married this spring, and just asked me if she could use the XJS as her wedding car -- which I don't think is nice enough with it's current paintwork.
What to do? No way I'll have a enough free time to attempt the job myself, and a factory quality respray doesn't seem like a wise investment at current values. Any suggestions or ideas are welcomed.
Thanks, and Happy New Year!
The clearcoat is showing signs of failing on my 1990 XJS Convertible, and since it's a black car, the failing areas are more obvious. The car only has 65K miles and I've had it since it only had 8K miles (20 years).
It's a perfectly wonderful Sunday driver with the top down, but it is at the point that it could use a new convertible top, new boot cover, new seat leather, and a complete respray. None of which I intended to do anytime soon because I'm not sure the economics make sense, and I've spent all my efforts on making it mechanically excellent. I can DIY the top and interior at reasonable costs that would be a good investment if the paint was in better condition.
However, a really good quality re-spray might cost more than the car is worth now or foreseeable future. The area I live in, not only has crazy high labor rates, but has been actively zoning/regulating automotive shops out of business, which only makes costs higher. So a repaint wasn't on the radar and something to consider 'one day'. I always figured that several years from now when I had more free time I'd teach myself how to do a quality job. My daughters would never forgive me if I ever got rid of the beast, so I've been content keeping it in the garage and taking her out only on beautiful days since I no longer use it as my daily driver.
My oldest is getting married this spring, and just asked me if she could use the XJS as her wedding car -- which I don't think is nice enough with it's current paintwork.
What to do? No way I'll have a enough free time to attempt the job myself, and a factory quality respray doesn't seem like a wise investment at current values. Any suggestions or ideas are welcomed.
Thanks, and Happy New Year!
Last edited by Mac Allan; 12-31-2018 at 11:01 AM.
#2
Mac Allan,
Is the clear coat issue all over or just in a specific area? If it is in a specific area you may be able to just repair that area and if you wanted maybe lightly sand all of the clear coat and re-coat the entire car. The cost would e less if you did all of the prep and let a pro do the paint work.
I have the same problem but all my clear coat issues are on the hood. Overall the paint looks good to most people but I can see all the checking in the paint. Fortunately I can do it myself.
You have had it for twenty yrs. are you planning on keeping it for another 20. It may be worth the cost.
Again most of the cost is in the prepping, taping etc. The actual painting is fairly quick unless you are looking for show quality.
Like I said if you do the work and are trying not to break the bank, you could have someone less expensive like Marco do the paint or clear. I did that very thing years ago on a Volkswagen Bus. I prepped everything and tapped off most of the vehicle, they only painted.
First shot had a run and they redid for nothing cause it was their issue.
Something to think about
Best of Luck, Softball60/Paul
Is the clear coat issue all over or just in a specific area? If it is in a specific area you may be able to just repair that area and if you wanted maybe lightly sand all of the clear coat and re-coat the entire car. The cost would e less if you did all of the prep and let a pro do the paint work.
I have the same problem but all my clear coat issues are on the hood. Overall the paint looks good to most people but I can see all the checking in the paint. Fortunately I can do it myself.
You have had it for twenty yrs. are you planning on keeping it for another 20. It may be worth the cost.
Again most of the cost is in the prepping, taping etc. The actual painting is fairly quick unless you are looking for show quality.
Like I said if you do the work and are trying not to break the bank, you could have someone less expensive like Marco do the paint or clear. I did that very thing years ago on a Volkswagen Bus. I prepped everything and tapped off most of the vehicle, they only painted.
First shot had a run and they redid for nothing cause it was their issue.
Something to think about
Best of Luck, Softball60/Paul
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Mac Allan (01-01-2019)
#4
#5
i repainted mine myself for about $800 in materials using quality paint. you can do it yourself without a paint booth start to Finnish. iv painted several cars in home garages before with good results. you might have a few dust nibs to wet sand and buff out after your done spraying but the end result is still the same.
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89 Jacobra (01-02-2019),
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orangeblossom (01-02-2019)
#6
#7
There are very few cars that you could make a profit restoring, and largely because of the cost of professional services like a paint job. It costs pretty much the same to paint a base 66 Mustang coupe as it does to paint a 66 Shelby GT 350. One is worth painting, the other really isn't. But we gearheads tend to spend inordinate amounts of money on our cars with no hope of a return on investment. To some, we are not owners, rather we are just temporary caretakers. The way I look at it, there are economically worse hobbies. For the cost of paint job you could play golf every weekend for a year, take a cruise, or attend a half dozen major sporting events. All of which will take your money and leave you with nothing but memories. A good quality paint job, if its kept indoors, will have you and everyone who sees your Jaguar smiling for probably the next 20 or 30 years before it needs doing again.
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#8
OP is in California, you've got two options...well 3 but I'll get to that.
If cost is an issue in your region you can either drive up to Vancouver Canada or a place in Arizona, don't ask me why but that state has cheap quality autobody options...probably due to low labour costs and UV damage. Vancouver is the supercar capital of North America and there are more quality shops then you can count and you'll get the exchange rate in your favour. Time it right and it could be a nice 4-5day road trip.
Third as some suggest is to fix it yourself which most people won't do. I recently had to patch a 1x1' clearcoat section with a can of clearcoat, 4000grit pad and a bottle of clearcoat polish, I could of done a better job but I layered it on without sufficient time or sanding so its fine from 5ft away but upon closer inspection you can tell. It'll be good till my respray but I think with proper lighting, time, and sanding in a heated garage you could do a half decent job if its a small patch.
If cost is an issue in your region you can either drive up to Vancouver Canada or a place in Arizona, don't ask me why but that state has cheap quality autobody options...probably due to low labour costs and UV damage. Vancouver is the supercar capital of North America and there are more quality shops then you can count and you'll get the exchange rate in your favour. Time it right and it could be a nice 4-5day road trip.
Third as some suggest is to fix it yourself which most people won't do. I recently had to patch a 1x1' clearcoat section with a can of clearcoat, 4000grit pad and a bottle of clearcoat polish, I could of done a better job but I layered it on without sufficient time or sanding so its fine from 5ft away but upon closer inspection you can tell. It'll be good till my respray but I think with proper lighting, time, and sanding in a heated garage you could do a half decent job if its a small patch.
Last edited by VancouverXJ6; 12-31-2018 at 09:23 PM.
#9
I have a 95 convertible that basically was in a similar condition to yours when I bought it. 100k miles for $3000, slight clearcoat damage. I proceeded to treat it like a Honda and drove it a further 90000 miles. Now the clear coat is GONE. White haze everywhere. A deer ran into it, and I didn’t fix it. I clipped the bumper on something, cracked it, glued it together, painted the corner an approximate blue, and drove it more. Interior was ratty ratty, especially with my penchant for drive thru dining. And it was still magnificent! But by the time I had the car ground down to its last inch, the math made no sense to fix it. A decent 92 coupe was $3500 so I bought it. Then a found a nice 96 XJ12 sedan for $900... and took the plates off the 95 convertible. Drove it around behind the barn, started to go down the hill... wheels slipped in the mud and put the old girl into a tree. I’d only taken the insurance off a few days earlier. I feel like it was so sad about being put out it tried to kill itself. It was willing to take me to work more, drop the top on a random sunny day and let the wind blow out McDonald straw wrappers... never complain that I barely even would change the oil... I’m not sure what my point is, but if you stop maintaining the car it’s going to go downhill fast. Keep it up, or one day it will be so bad you’ll have to buy a new one and they won’t be so cheap one day.
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AaronsJag (01-31-2019)
#10
I'm faced with a dilemma, and thought I would solicit opinions and advice from the wisdom of the forum.
The clearcoat is showing signs of failing on my 1990 XJS Convertible, and since it's a black car, the failing areas are more obvious. The car only has 65K miles and I've had it since it only had 8K miles (20 years).
It's a perfectly wonderful Sunday driver with the top down, but it is at the point that it could use a new convertible top, new boot cover, new seat leather, and a complete respray. None of which I intended to do anytime soon because I'm not sure the economics make sense, and I've spent all my efforts on making it mechanically excellent. I can DIY the top and interior at reasonable costs that would be a good investment if the paint was in better condition.
However, a really good quality re-spray might cost more than the car is worth now or foreseeable future. The area I live in, not only has crazy high labor rates, but has been actively zoning/regulating automotive shops out of business, which only makes costs higher. So a repaint wasn't on the radar and something to consider 'one day'. I always figured that several years from now when I had more free time I'd teach myself how to do a quality job. My daughters would never forgive me if I ever got rid of the beast, so I've been content keeping it in the garage and taking her out only on beautiful days since I no longer use it as my daily driver.
My oldest is getting married this spring, and just asked me if she could use the XJS as her wedding car -- which I don't think is nice enough with it's current paintwork.
What to do? No way I'll have a enough free time to attempt the job myself, and a factory quality respray doesn't seem like a wise investment at current values. Any suggestions or ideas are welcomed.
Thanks, and Happy New Year!
The clearcoat is showing signs of failing on my 1990 XJS Convertible, and since it's a black car, the failing areas are more obvious. The car only has 65K miles and I've had it since it only had 8K miles (20 years).
It's a perfectly wonderful Sunday driver with the top down, but it is at the point that it could use a new convertible top, new boot cover, new seat leather, and a complete respray. None of which I intended to do anytime soon because I'm not sure the economics make sense, and I've spent all my efforts on making it mechanically excellent. I can DIY the top and interior at reasonable costs that would be a good investment if the paint was in better condition.
However, a really good quality re-spray might cost more than the car is worth now or foreseeable future. The area I live in, not only has crazy high labor rates, but has been actively zoning/regulating automotive shops out of business, which only makes costs higher. So a repaint wasn't on the radar and something to consider 'one day'. I always figured that several years from now when I had more free time I'd teach myself how to do a quality job. My daughters would never forgive me if I ever got rid of the beast, so I've been content keeping it in the garage and taking her out only on beautiful days since I no longer use it as my daily driver.
My oldest is getting married this spring, and just asked me if she could use the XJS as her wedding car -- which I don't think is nice enough with it's current paintwork.
What to do? No way I'll have a enough free time to attempt the job myself, and a factory quality respray doesn't seem like a wise investment at current values. Any suggestions or ideas are welcomed.
Thanks, and Happy New Year!
First and foremost repainting a complete car is an expensive proposition if you hand your car over to a shop and ask them to take care of the complete process. Doing a repaint correctly is a very labor intensive job so with the values of the average XJS being what they are I highly recommend you take your time and repaint your XJS on your schedule doing as much of the prep work yourself. You will not only save thousands but you will also create a new bond with your car just like you have taking care of it mechanically.
You have made it clear that you do not have enough time right now to handle doing a lot of the work yourself getting the car ready to paint. You also did not say that your daughter would only want to use the XJS in the wedding if it is in pristine condition. Sounds like your kids grew up with the car over the last 20 years and your daughter just wants the car in the wedding not because it is perfect but because it has been of part of her life and all the flaws on the car are part of her experiences. Nothing wrong with letting the car be part of the wedding just like it is as it has earned it's flaws. I must say that I have two very nice XJS' but I am more proud of the rock chips and flaws on the cars as they remind me of where I was at with the car when each flaw happened.
I would just allow the car to be part of the celebration as it is and when you have time to repaint the car or spruce up other areas it will feel even better because you will have done as much as possible yourself. I am reminded often when I am around my cars that I often focus on everything that is wrong with the car when I should just be enjoying the whole package.
The following 4 users liked this post by LuvmyXJS':
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#11
#12
Some of those ceramic products cost as much as a new paint job! None of them seem to be less than half of what I paid for a repaint! It wasn't done in a paint booth, so there was some dust and stuff, but its a daily driver, so it looks fantastic as that, not a show car. I was very happy. I paid $2k and he did a lot of minor bodywork correction as well. Had the riveted side moldings removed and he used PPG paint and clear. I was thrilled with the final outcome.
Found him on Craigslist!
Found him on Craigslist!
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ronbros (01-01-2019)
#13
Some of those ceramic products cost as much as a new paint job! None of them seem to be less than half of what I paid for a repaint! It wasn't done in a paint booth, so there was some dust and stuff, but its a daily driver, so it looks fantastic as that, not a show car. I was very happy. I paid $2k and he did a lot of minor bodywork correction as well. Had the riveted side moldings removed and he used PPG paint and clear. I was thrilled with the final outcome.
Found him on Craigslist!
Found him on Craigslist!
$2K is an incredible price given that PPG products, epoxy primer, and all the other required supplies would run well over $1K alone.
#14
Some of those ceramic products cost as much as a new paint job! None of them seem to be less than half of what I paid for a repaint! It wasn't done in a paint booth, so there was some dust and stuff, but its a daily driver, so it looks fantastic as that, not a show car. I was very happy. I paid $2k and he did a lot of minor bodywork correction as well. Had the riveted side moldings removed and he used PPG paint and clear. I was thrilled with the final outcome.
Found him on Craigslist!
Found him on Craigslist!
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89 Jacobra (01-02-2019)
#16
#17
#18
im hoping to pull my semi truck in the shop and do a paint job on it soon, when i do that ill probably do a video on that, and probably a paint correction video after that, but if not im sure there are lots of other videos on youtube as well that show how to do those things. the 2000 grit will make it look dull at first but it will polish right back to a shine, its not hard to do, even when you get a paint job done in a booth there will be a little bit of paint correction to do, things still land in the paint, a show quality paint job will have the entire car blocked out and buffed after its painted, thats how you get that super smooth super shiny glass like appearance.
#20
How hard is it to remove the bumpers (and any tips on how to do it)?
Ezrider, I noticed in your photos that you were able to pull away only the back edge of the convertible top without removing the whole top, how did you do that?
Any other tips or instructions on how to remove mirrors, door handles, etc.
Thanks very much!
Ezrider, I noticed in your photos that you were able to pull away only the back edge of the convertible top without removing the whole top, how did you do that?
Any other tips or instructions on how to remove mirrors, door handles, etc.
Thanks very much!