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Darren - looking real good. You will be very pleased.
Always nice putting back nice clean and painted parts.
Keep them pictures coming... cos we love them!
OH - and how is the hand brake going... planing to do the upgrade?
A good write up on the handbrake and mods ....will give it consideration but as a minimum will utilise shims on the pads if needed and slot the main adjustment screw / bolt, its a part time rebuild so i think i will give it more consideration when i have it re assembled.
Rebuild is coming along, not a lot of progress in the last week.
Looking into the wiring and or locktiting of bolts …. Grants comments in this thread, and other threads in this forum, are well noted.
During disassembly I noted the following
· Calliper half bolts were loctited …. Nice crack when they were loosened
· Caliper mounting bolts were all tight, one looked to have the original tie wire and the other wire application would not have stopped anything coming loose…..no Loctite.
· Diff to cage bolts were tight and original wiring in place.
· Dog bone ….original wiring looked to be in place …… but all four were loose and rusty (very loose!!!!!)
So I will be going the loctite path on all bolts …. What would be good is some discussion on is the type of loctite to use. Grant uses the Red High Temp 620 …. Heat is often required to undo these…..?
Or there is the option of Loctite Blue 242/243, allows easier disassembly and provides corrosion protection. From the product descriptions I am reading should be adequate for the job. (I like the corrosion protection feature… I do not like assembling things without antisieze).
My experience with Loctite is in heavy industrial applications as such have never used anything other than the loctite RED products.
Caliper mounting bolts were all tight, one looked to have the original tie wire and the other wire application would not have stopped anything coming loose…..no Loctite. I would use Blue loctite on these, it can be undoone but will hold them, providing they are done up to the correct torque.
Diff to cage bolts were tight and original wiring in place. If you have removed the diff, then replace with blue loctite and wire, I suggest. If not, leave well alone.
· Dog bone ….original wiring looked to be in place …… but all four were loose and rusty (very loose!!!!!) The dog bones are loose because the shims have fallen out. The procedure for replacing is to ensure the four holes involved in supporting the inner fulcrum pin are dead in line, then shim the dog bone ends as required to keep them aligned. This involves much trial and error, and is easiest dome with two, cage upside down and one side at a ti,e so one side can keep the cage roughly correctly placed, if both sides are un-fulcrum pinned, the cage tends to spring apart in the middle. Once the dog bones are correct, and the pin will slide in with just gentle taps at most, I suggest you use green-coloured loctite 270 (it has a red stripe on the bottle) which will not come undone without flame on the part concerned, and forget any wiring - which is damn-near impossible to get on one of the bolts as it is so heavily shrouded by the bone. https://www.autosport-bearings.co.uk...th-threadlock/
Or there is the option of Loctite Blue 242/243, allows easier disassembly and provides corrosion protection. From the product descriptions I am reading should be adequate for the job. (I like the corrosion protection feature… I do not like assembling things without antisieze). Blue loctite 243 is fine for everything except the dog bones. Any slight easing on them allows the shims to fall out and this requires the axle out to (once again) support the inner fulcrum pin properly. This happened to me.
Last edited by Greg in France; 10-16-2019 at 02:06 AM.
I used the 620, simply coz a large bottle found its way to the shelf a looooong time ago, compliments of Ford Trucks.
ALSO
I have the greatest FAITH, and know full well I will NEVER be back in there in my lfietime, and the care factor for the next owner, zero.
I have done 12?? I think rear cradles now, and never needed to return, so undoing anything is not a concern. OK, fresh diff oil, brake fluid, grease, etc annually, keeps everything warm and fuzzy,, and STANDARD brake pad material back there also helps. in MY opinion.
As Greg has so well stated, the shimming of the Dogbones is a MONGREL task, but if it is not done 100%, you will have vibrations, clunks, etc, and be back in there very quickly. One I did took all damn day to get those inner pins to slide in with a FIRM hand push, and that was my XJS, and that car is so stable its scary.
Needing to replace the rubber on the inner pins (seals I think) on my FIRST attempt at setting the inner pins I dare say that I moved along pretty quickly and had the diff right side up on a jack - balanced... Shoot, I gotta take some pride in sumpthin I do, lol. This machine has challenged me and challenged me again and again.
The most difficult (where I got stuck) was getting a damn wrench of some sort on the top caliper securing bolts... What was I doing wrong??? Nothing fit right in the little space or on the bolt (I think I used a 5/8th SAE box end wrench) on the top. 15 or 16mm wouldn't fit... Cursing! 100degree heat, working on the black top! Ohhhh the joy these cars bring...
I have two new fulcrum pins that need installing on the "dogbones".... The threads on the old, all chewed up. I didn't feel comfortable torquing them down, type chewed.... One of the reasons (that and exhaust) she will be parked up until I can complete the task.
So, here's a quiz... And I dare not describe what I plan to do to shove them pins in WITHOUT lowering the cage again, lol... Yup, I got a plan hehe... HINT: Involves a drill.
while on the subject of LOCTITE.......well, while considering the well recieved comments from Grant and Greg and planing my time to get the rebuild done i decided to pull down the the rear axles to get the inner fulcrums ready to set up the dog bones .........!
removed the split pin from the castleated nut ....yeah.... the nut will not budge ...try the other one .... will not budge either .....CURSE SWEAR BLADSPHEAM .... i have no dougbt some one has loctited the axle stub nuts on .....WWWWHHHHYYYY .... i do not know. Do not have a large enough vice or oxy set here so i have taken it to a mates eng shop down the road .... he sympathetically smiled and has asked for remuneration to move the nuts in liquid ... i oblidged.
Hopefully the nuts come off with out any damage to the shafts ........ swearing alot and reaching for alcohol.
Could be fun getting the splines to release out of the hub, soooo, I suggest another slab for said mate, and have him press the driveshafts out, "while he is in there".
I use loctite 243. The only difference between 242 and 243 is 243 is slightly higher strength to compensate for oily bolts. If you clean things beforehand, 242 is fine.
For the large bolts, I use an impact wrench to remove them. I've never broken a bolt yet using impact, but have broken plenty with a wrench or breaker bar. The vibrations of impact actually seem gentler on the bolt than just heaving on a breaker bar.
The hubs do not have to be removed from the driveshafts to do the inner fulcrums. Are you aiming to put new bearings into he hubs, if not why not leave well alone?
.......new bearings and universal joints going in.
all good
Darren
Darren
I have never worked on the driveshaft removal and hub bearing renewal of the rear hubs, but at some point I shall, no doubt. I would be very grateful if you could post as much detail and as many photos as you can of the entire dis-assembly and rebuild process, including setup of the float or preload, etc etc.
Greg
HAHAHAHA, how long did that glass stay full, about 20 seconds I reckon.
LOVE the drain plug, only from Downunder.
This attachment might be worth a read while its in a thousand bits, coz its NOT doable when its in one piece. I have done many over the years.
What is/was the original purpose of this said hole? Surely, the first greasing at the factory using the grease nipple properly would have revealed this anomaly. By the way, where would the grease nipple be located?. I didn't see the grease nipple in the photos of that doc. Would it have been threaded in to the boss just below the referenced small hole?
The "seals" are a simple felt ring, common British item of the era, and if there was NO relief method, the people that use these air operated grease guns, would blow the seals out. Aussie name, Wombats.
Soooooo, with that relief hole blocked, we enthusiast types, will need to be very careful, or we will damage the felt seals also.
My grease gun is a SMALL Pistoll style unit, and cannot build huge pressure, and has served me well for 40+ years.
The same principle applies to greasing Uni Joints, "slow, LISTEN, and when you hear the "squish" STOP", jobs done.
The grease nipple is in the underside of the casting, and points directly at the ground when on the car.
10-09-2019, 01:23 AM
