Rear Crank Seal XJS
#1
#2
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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I'm sure this is covered in Kirby's famous "Book" :-)
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/XJS_help.pdf
Cheers
DD
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/XJS_help.pdf
Cheers
DD
#3
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Austin tx and Daytona FL.
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I wish there was a simple fix for rear crank seal!
when i rebilt my v12 back in 1995, i was very careful to use the best methods for rope seal installation, including time spent on sealing the sides.
and i have done many other types of rope seal engines, with good results.
it did not leak a drop for around 1000miles or more, then noticed slight oil leak,spraying off the crank flange, darn, not to happy!
well it has got continually worse, leaks oil like an old diesel engine.
it is ,very simply, poor engineering for such a hi-tech engine!
and it seems that ford finally corrected the problem, with a full circle Neopreen seal,.
some older USA engines had rope seals, and the seal manufacturers made a split neo. seal for rebilding them, just maybe, there is an aftermarket piece that could be fitted,
like a seal from a different engine,i donno??
it sure is annoying,after i pull away from parking with oil drops on the concrete, and everyone around looking and commenting.
when i rebilt my v12 back in 1995, i was very careful to use the best methods for rope seal installation, including time spent on sealing the sides.
and i have done many other types of rope seal engines, with good results.
it did not leak a drop for around 1000miles or more, then noticed slight oil leak,spraying off the crank flange, darn, not to happy!
well it has got continually worse, leaks oil like an old diesel engine.
it is ,very simply, poor engineering for such a hi-tech engine!
and it seems that ford finally corrected the problem, with a full circle Neopreen seal,.
some older USA engines had rope seals, and the seal manufacturers made a split neo. seal for rebilding them, just maybe, there is an aftermarket piece that could be fitted,
like a seal from a different engine,i donno??
it sure is annoying,after i pull away from parking with oil drops on the concrete, and everyone around looking and commenting.
#5
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You probably already know this, but thought I would chime in on it. There is a device discussed in Kirby's book called a "Sneaky Pete" that will allow you to replace it without removing the crank. I believe you can get it by dropping the oil pan ( Don't know ). The recommended approach is to use a 406 rope seal ( they're longer ) and it has to be trimmed properly. Supposedly the longer 406 rope seal allows for easier trimming. There are some videos on Youtube that show it and proper trimming is essential in order to prevent leaking. Hope this helps. My '85 leaks all over the place and I'm removing the engine to work on all the leaks. My goal is to make a jig that I can run the engine while outside the car so I can inspect for leaks before putting it back in.
#6
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I also ran across this thread on a GM forum where the individual was repeatedly having a leak problem with his rope seals until he had a discussion with Best Gasket and finally fixed the problem. This thread in their discussion group shows the history and the fix.
Rear main rope seal - GMC 228-302 - Inliners International Bulletin Board
Rear main rope seal - GMC 228-302 - Inliners International Bulletin Board
#7
Join Date: Jul 2010
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great work for a simple oil leak!
a lot of guys helped in that one,i bet he can take his engine out, quicker than we can do a v12 .
i feel his frustration, but as we know,R&R aJag V12 aint easy, i have R&Rd many chevy & GMC truck engines, and with i a little practice they can be out in 1 hour.
also i'm now retired and sold the shop, so R&R isnt in the plan.
and it has no other problems that need R&R.
and yes, the methods used in that posting are very useful to many guys considering that rear seal.
a lot of guys helped in that one,i bet he can take his engine out, quicker than we can do a v12 .
i feel his frustration, but as we know,R&R aJag V12 aint easy, i have R&Rd many chevy & GMC truck engines, and with i a little practice they can be out in 1 hour.
also i'm now retired and sold the shop, so R&R isnt in the plan.
and it has no other problems that need R&R.
and yes, the methods used in that posting are very useful to many guys considering that rear seal.
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#9
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It should be possible to do from underneath the car by removing the pan and using a "Sneaky Pete" tool. I think it can be ordered from Autozone etc. If your leak isn't that bad, you may want to just invest in one of those hotrod drip pans they sell at Autozone. As far as 460 goes, yes I think it will, it's longer too, so it should be easier to do the trimming once the seal is in. You could call or email those folks at Best Gasket...they seem to have been very helpful for those other guys on their GM rope seal project.
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