If you lack focus and persistence then I suggest dropping the rear subframe for less stress and aggravation.

"To Each His Own!!!!"

bob[/QUOTE]

If you lack focus and persistence. What an elegant phrase that sums it perfectly!

 

I learned long ago that angry people make lousy mechanics. I watched people 'cuss, yell and throw tools at cars with NO improvement in the situation.

The CAR does NOT CARE. You are the idiot, not the car. (well maybe the design engineer that put that part in that place??? We all need to share the blame.)

bob

 

A quality source of information is what reduces stress and provides the proper method to proceed. This forum and its members are true stress relievers.

Ok some facts. The rear calipers are in and functioning! The method of installation was by not dropping the the rear cage, but by the Maubry and Motorman method. This is not to say that the cage dropping method is not the way to go.
Neither caliper was functioning and pads were badly crack and worn unevenly. I did not notice braking problems prior to putting the car on a lift. A visual check is appropriate and necessary if you live in climates that have adverse weather conditions. Altho my car was stored in an A/C garage and basically rust free, being driven in the NE United States probably contributed to the demise of the braking system.
Twenty years ago I would have done this job myself because it is not hard and straightforward.. Time determined that it should go to a younger guy! I might add that I got all my parts from O'Reilly and the last rear calipers. I am returning the cores so there should be another pair soon.

Thanks to one and all for the information and philosophizing. It was always appreciated
Afterburner

 

Hi all I have been following the method described to remove the calipers, parking brake cable and fluid pipes disconnected etc.. I have removed the safety wire and loosened the 2 bolts on each caliper using an improvised box wrench, but the bolts will not come out as they are fouling the diff housing , looking again they are obviously too long to come out... now thinking only way is to take off drive shaft, rotor etc.. but did not want to go down that route ! ... hope I have described well enough I am English so have tried to use US Words like "Rotors" lol...

 

Read a few thread above more carefully. The bolts are too long to remove, but they can be positioned in such a way to remove the caliper with the bolts still in the holes. You’ll find you’ll need an identical technique to reinstall.

 

Sorry, forgot to provide the outcome. Job went slick. The mechanic followed Maury's instructions (9 above) I happily paid $400.00 and drove away with a smile. If your young and agile and don't mind laying on your back it's a do it yourself job. If your old, pay the $400 and wait for your car at the nearest pub!

 

Thanks ( I am an MG man too + AC Cobra replicas..
Yes I went back to it the following day and if you get the bolts out as far as you can, it will "jiggle" out. This is a PITA job as you can just about get to the bolts so takes a long time and sore fingers and knuckles. Might not need to worry too much about refit as getting mechanic who is going to flush and replace the fluid for me to fit the new calipers when they come.
Thanks for the advice.