As the title suggests I’m looking at repainting my 86 XJS and wonder if anyone has a site or place they’ve bought paint from in factory colors that they would recommend I lend my business to.

 

I would think any competent body shop would have a colorimeter and computer that will spit out the mix.
Of course that would be for modern materials since the original lacquer is NLA.

 

Do you know of any reliable online retailers for this sort of thing? I just want to be able to compare prices between body shop versus online and make sure one way or the other I don’t get screwed.

 

We have a retailer near me but I can't remember the name.
The issue is going to be hard matching what you have.

 

The majority of body shop costs will be labour, so not sure knowing the price of paint is going to help you that much.

 

And quality automotive paint is very expensive now. You don't want to cheap out on the paint. Labor for quality paint prep is expensive also, and will make the difference between a job that lasts and one that doesn't. Be highly suspicious of a lowball quote, because they are cutting corners somewhere.

 

Hi- color match is no problem. The three letter code on the bottom of you VIN sticker is all you need. In 1986 jaguar paint was thermoplastic, with no clear coat. You will no doubt replace it with base and clear.

if you’re in California you can only get water based paint. I’ve never used it.

in many other places, you can get “normal” paint like PPG Deltron. It’s expensive and my favorite. The price is very color dependent. More red=more money. A gallon of red was about $600 eight years ago.

I use a local supplier called Fisher Auto in New Hampshire because the girl gives me good prices. When they don’t have what I need I use Colours, Inc which is full retail.

You can get a good idea of cost for PPG clear and hardener on Oreillys website. LIE about your zip code if it shows as unavailable. 03452 is a good zip code, but a Massachusetts zip code won’t work.

 

thank you. I’m looking at tackling the job myself since the paint is already in complete disrepair. I’ll look at that site and see what I can find. Appreciate the help. Would you be able to tell me if you’ve painted the whole car before how much it takes to do so?

 

https://www.motorbiscuit.com/heres-w...-car-yourself/

 

https://www.socialmediatoday.com/con...log-posts-suck

 

I generally buy a gallon to do an XJ6/12 top coat. ( not a color change so I don’t do jams etc) If you take it down to bare metal and do the whole car, 2+ is required. but I’m pretty careful and don’t waste much. It will also depend on your paint gun and compressor.
If this is your first paint job. Have someone guide you step by step. I did, and I spent a lot of time watching professional painters.
I did it with Lacquer which is a lot more forgiving than modern paints. Plus you won’t need fresh air mask. And the whole body suit.
The Thermoplastic paints need to be removed. You can’t overspray it like you can with Lacquer.
You can learn but paint a big/ giant sized cardboard box first. Buy cheap paint from a tractor supply store or something. And practice.
Then you judge if you are ready.

 

Just find a paint jobber and give them your paint code. They'll mix up some paint for you. If you're doing overall, you can choose the budget lines and it will be just fine.

 

If you plan to do the entire car don't waste your time with paint matching, buy paint mixed per code, matching is really only for partials, even then if it is close you can blend, a colorimeter may spot the difference but you won't - it is all about edges - if the colour changes at a panel gap you will spot it. I think much depends on the year of your car re the paint, if you have the thermoplastic stuff it all needs to come off really which is not a mundane task, I've never painted over such stuff so not sure of the consequences of doing so.

Don't waste your time with modern water based paints unless frustration is something you enjoy so if you are in CA then I would recommend moving - you need high end gear and facilities for a good result with water based s*** - I hate the stuff, a good spray gun and air supply won't be wasted. Keep your eyes open for a DeVilbiss FLG 5, get two tips and needles - 1.4 aned 1.8. The FLG-5 is one of the best budget guns on the planet.

If you have a metalic / pearl paint you are better of with a clear over solvent base - as per mguar - 2k high solids clear - good clear is expensive - very - I tend to stick to Kapci, I also use their 2k primer filler, basecoat is a crapshoot, depends what is available in your area , I currently use Clostemann coatings for base. If you have a flat finish then 2K over primer, you can still clear but you can get 2K finish like glass - I shall await the abuse from the health and safety / environmental ****'s - so yes 2K really isn't for amateurs but it is totally possible to do so safely woth appropriate gear - you cannot however manage the atmopsphere but you aren't doing this commercially just apply common sense.

You can get good results without spray booths but you need to be meticulous and plan on runs or bugs landing (don't try to remove when they land) - you will need to de knib and polish any how. There's a lot to learn and the only way to do so is get stuck in and know that you will screw up while you are learning. I guarantee you will use three times as much material wise as a pro would. As far as practice goes I did so on old car panels from a breakers - bonnet, door primarily which I fixed, painted, damaged, fixed, painted and so on - your XJS is perhaps not the best place to practice - you also need to practice masking up - as in masking panels and places you don't want paint to go. Don't underestimate preparation - defects in the surface / primer WILL show on the finish.

Don't waste your money on Pro level guns unless you have money to burn - although a good gun helps it isn't all the gun, a pro sprayer can get a better result out of the cheap gun than you will get with the most expensive gun on the planet - but - don't go too chea, you need to be sure the problem is the user not the gun so stay away from the 'cheapest possible' - FLG-5 dude - all the way - even the pro's like the FLG-5 - but there are fakes out there so stick to reputable dealers.

Your location would help supplier wise ...