Aloha, My fuel pump went bad last month so I changed it with a Hella pump. The car is a 93 XJ6. After putting the tank back in the car ran great... for a week and than died on the free way. I called a parts guy and was told I needed to have a fuel pump kit replacement that cost $500.00 It includes a new housing and wire harness. I have never seen this anywhere else so my question is , Have any of you just changed the fuel pump or have you bought a whole new kit to change the housing and harness. Than for any feedback


Mahalo, Steven
1993 XJ6

 

Steven,

Welcome first and foremost.

The '93 XJ6 is known as an XJ40 in "JAg talk".

The guys/girls over on that section would have more idea than the XJ-S people here.

The "In tank" pumps are good, the wiring harness from the outside TO the pump are NOT so good.

We sell lots of those harnesses for all sorts of cars at work, and some come with the aftermarket pumps, but not always.

The XJ40 did suffer from "fuel pump relay" issues. Maybe it is just the relay causing your grief.

A simple volts test at the tank connector will quickly sort this.

If you got volts AT that connector, it aint the relay.

Then its tank out again and check that in tank harness.

I replaced that harness, and the intank fuel hose, when I did the X300 pump some time ago. The harness was sad, the hose was fine, but I did not want to take that tank out again.

 

Is it possible to bypass the XJS in-tank pump and install an electric pump in the trunk. (If I remember correctly, the E-type had that arrangement.

 

yeah, if you want to replicate the out of tank pump from the older generations, they can be had as little as $30. Though are much louder.

I'd also recommend checking voltages and insuring the relay is good

 

I'm not sure we are communicating. What I meant was the in-tank goes bad, can you cut into the motor supply line with a new pump. Not remove old pump? 1993 XJS

 

I have an exceptionally loud fuel pump. I am concerned it may pack-up. Rather than pulling the fuel tank and replacing the pump, is it possible to cut into the motor fuel supply line with a new external pump and not remove the old pump? 1993 XJS.
If I remember this is the same setup as the E-type. The question really is will the defective fuel pump allow fuel to pass through to the motor?

 

Well you would be spinning the old pump, which would be putting extra strain on the new pump, which would prematurely wear it out. Back to square one.

I'm pretty sure most e-types used an external SU pump

 

The Etype pushes fuel to a carb bowl set-up at a much lower pressure. The FI uses a higher pressure pump and the HE set-up uses a surge tank/external pump which keeps a constant fuel head to the pump irregardless of fuel slosh in the main tank (similar to an aircraft surge box) the later XJS uses an in tank pump which I believe is in your case. I wouldn't try to use an external pump to pull fuel through a dead internal pump, you are just going to prematurely wear out the external pump. Also the Etype is not trying to pull high pressure through a dead pump. In short I'm trying to say installing and external pump in line with a dead internal pump to a FI system is nothing like a Etype system. I'd suggest taking the plunge and pulling the in tank pump and replacing it with the proper set-up.

 

I have never seen or hear another XJS Coupe since I got this car. I first thought I could hear a fan motor in the rear of the car, but there is no fan in the rear. It is the fuel pump, but should it be heard as a low/medium motor sound inside a Coupe or should it be silent? The motor runs fine and does not show fuel starvation. I don't want to borrow trouble, and then again I don't want to be stranded or fix something that's not broken.
Your thoughts appreciated.

 

Afterburner:

No, another injection pump between the non-working one and the engine will not pull sufficient fuel through the first non-working pump. If it really is the pump itself (check there is 12V feed to it as Grant explained) then pull the tank and replace is the only option.

You cannot fix the problem without pulling the tank. I think you have a facelift ? (If you have a pre-facelift with the fuel pump next to the sump tank under the battery, then they can be noisy, but not too much so if in the correct foam lined clamp. if it is noisy, this is usually caused by the pump NOT being fed properly from the sump and main tanks. In which case check the sock filter in the sump tank and replace it if you have not already done so. Also check that there is a good gravity flow from the main tank into the sump tank. It is not unknown for this to be blocked or for the inner lining of the rubber feed pipe to give up).

Assuming you have a facelift, and that you have recently replaced the in-tank pump, then the noise could well be that the tank after replacement is touching the bodywork somewhere and the pump noise is resonating and therefore amplifying. See if you can move the tank about a bit and see if the noise abates. Ensure also that the filter has been changed, as if a bit blocked this causes the pump to work harder and make a noise. If you do have to pull the tank again, think about cutting an access hatch in the rear parcel shelf, which I am told, means future pump changes can be done through the hatch!

Greg

Greg

 

To Greg
Have a Facelift. Did change fuel filter and it was clean (took apart) Understand sock, blowing the sock, and feed lines, but doesn't removing the sock entail pulling the tank? Also interested in approaching the tank from the hatch. Could that be the first approach, rather than pulling the tank initially? And is that viable on a face lift? I guess you have figured out by now that I am not keen on removing the tank! I know you do not have a facelift model, but may be some other kind person can provide their brilliance to these questions for all of us.

 

I have a 1996 6.0 V12 coupe and I had fuel starvation problems when going round a long left hand sweeping bend. Also, if I powered through it, it would suddenly pick up and shot off as if a turbo had kicked in.

I eventually decided that it was the fuel pump but didn't know why it picked up suddenly so I ordered a new one and went to fit it. What I did was to siphon all the fuel out and remove the fuel filler neck and a few or their smaller pipes (but not the fuel send and return lines under the tank that go out of the vehicle to the underside) and slide the tank rear wards so that I could access the round cover panel on the top. Once this was remove I noticed that I had TWO fuel pumps in the tank ! This is not shown on the spare parts diagrams and so was a surprise to me. It did however explain why I was getting the 'turbo' effect which I have surmised is that when the engine gets up to higher revs it needs more fuel and so the second pump kicks in.

I decided to replace both the pumps while I was there although I guess only one actually needed replacing. It was overall a reasonably straight forward process.

Let me know if you have any other questions and I will try to help if I can.

Cheers, Lee.

 

Hi Lee, use to live near Chesham when I was station at RAF Bovingdon, Loved it; the RAF Blokes turned me into a tamed Yank! (so they said)
Surprised you could move the tank to the rear with the supply lines attached to the bottom of the tank, That is good news. That simplifies the whole job, if it applies to a 1993. No gas on the floor and no under the car work. Any comments on removing and installing the pumps? Since I have a six, I don't anticipate two pumps. Thanks for your input; it was enlightening.

 

Hi afterburner1,

Tamed Yank - interesting - like a lion without a roar!

After removing the fuel filler neck and some miscellaneous pipe work and cables I managed to manoeuvre the tank far enough rearwards so that I could get the top opening off. It was a little awkward to get enough access but I did manage it. Once off the fuel pump(s) are reasonably easy to access, you just need to be dexterous enough. The fuel pipes are attached via short rubber tubes onto the top of the fuel pump outlet spigots and then onto the steel fuel delivery pipes. If I remember correctly the pump itself is simply held into position with a rubber mounting and as such is quite easy to remove and re-assemble.

Out of all of this the hardest work is the time involved to remove enoug stuff to get the tank moved rearwards. Remember to take photographs of the installation before you start so that you can confirm that it has all gone back together from where it came!

Cheers, Lee.

 

Thanks Lee and Greg appreciate the info