Rescue's Official Build Thread - 88 XJS V12 Oct 12 2019
#201
I think you'll need that washer,,, #4... Other will call me wrong. This is going to sound crazy, I just had the hub CAP, pin and retainer off of mine Sat,,, I just needed to tighten the hub a half spin to adjust for a little slip,,, and there was so much grease packed in there I did SEE the #4 washer,,, but I would guess you'll need that. We'll see what others say.
Check Rock Auto... For a little bit more, considering core,,, a remain set is not that much. Could save you some trouble if there is rust and putting in the bores... That and or the pistons... They look pretty rough my man.
I say let the fluid drain,,, all of it! Then refresh every drop.
Check Rock Auto... For a little bit more, considering core,,, a remain set is not that much. Could save you some trouble if there is rust and putting in the bores... That and or the pistons... They look pretty rough my man.
I say let the fluid drain,,, all of it! Then refresh every drop.
#203
#204
If the No 4 you refer to is the large washer with a flat on it's inside hole, (no 7 in this diagram)
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
then you MUST have one. This is the washer that tightens up the bearings to their correct no-looseness/no-tightness position. The D shaped inner hole prevents the washer turning on the stub axle - which has a flat machined onto it - in service.
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
then you MUST have one. This is the washer that tightens up the bearings to their correct no-looseness/no-tightness position. The D shaped inner hole prevents the washer turning on the stub axle - which has a flat machined onto it - in service.
#205
If the No 4 you refer to is the large washer with a flat on it's inside hole, (no 7 in this diagram)
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
then you MUST have one. This is the washer that tightens up the bearings to their correct no-looseness/no-tightness position. The D shaped inner hole prevents the washer turning on the stub axle - which has a flat machined onto it - in service.
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
then you MUST have one. This is the washer that tightens up the bearings to their correct no-looseness/no-tightness position. The D shaped inner hole prevents the washer turning on the stub axle - which has a flat machined onto it - in service.
I will inspect it all more today. I wont be taking the pistons out of the calibers til tomorrow though as I'll have to go into work to use the compressor there.
#206
#209
Hey greg. Ya I have that washer. I was more trying to figure out about the grease fitting because I dont see one/or have one. I'm going to take the passenger side off today then start cleaning everything.
I will inspect it all more today. I wont be taking the pistons out of the calibers til tomorrow though as I'll have to go into work to use the compressor there.
I will inspect it all more today. I wont be taking the pistons out of the calibers til tomorrow though as I'll have to go into work to use the compressor there.
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Greg in France (03-10-2020)
#210
Well just left the shop at work. Most of the pistons popped out but they have surface rust on them and some pitting. So going to order remags. On a positive not I'm getting 5k back from taxes so I think I'll be ok lol.
So while I wait a week I am gonna go back to working on that transmission linkage and change the oil on my motorcycle 😀
So while I wait a week I am gonna go back to working on that transmission linkage and change the oil on my motorcycle 😀
#211
Hubs and stuff all cleaned up. Bearings look very good. They must have been replaced at some point. They are koyo bearings. I just need to put the order in and I should have the replacement parts by end of next week. I am going to start tomorrow on that stupid tranny linkage that I cant get back into place. See post earlier. Also need to order lug nutz for all as the original with the plastic caps looked like **** and caps came off anyways. They 1/2 x 20 if I'm right.
Now I have a question. ive done the emergency brake handle.procedure correctly and I think they are siezed in the on position just like all the brakes lol.
What is the best way to disconnect the emergency brakes? Do I just disconnect the cable? Pull the pads out for them? Can I? Once i get the front brakes brake together and working (bleed the lines etc) I want to try and get the rear brakes free so I can hopefully move the vehicle and get it turned around so I can get the rear cage out.
Or if anyone has a better idea let me know.
#212
So I've been trying to wrap my brain around why this bolt (in red #10) wont go into its home (in red #15). It just wont catch at all. I've tried everything. It's a tight spot but I can get it into position with some extensions etc. I'm wondering if the threads in #15 got messed up. I was thinking if I can get a tap into it maybe I can repair it.
So does anyone know the tread type/size of this bolt?
So does anyone know the tread type/size of this bolt?
#213
Hubs and stuff all cleaned up. Bearings look very good. They must have been replaced at some point. They are koyo bearings. I just need to put the order in and I should have the replacement parts by end of next week. I am going to start tomorrow on that stupid tranny linkage that I cant get back into place. See post earlier. Also need to order lug nutz for all as the original with the plastic caps looked like **** and caps came off anyways. They 1/2 x 20 if I'm right.
Now I have a question. ive done the emergency brake handle.procedure correctly and I think they are siezed in the on position just like all the brakes lol.
What is the best way to disconnect the emergency brakes? Do I just disconnect the cable? Pull the pads out for them? Can I? Once i get the front brakes brake together and working (bleed the lines etc) I want to try and get the rear brakes free so I can hopefully move the vehicle and get it turned around so I can get the rear cage out.
Or if anyone has a better idea let me know.
#214
Well once I get the parts in for the fronts I'm hoping that now that the fron brakes arent stuck I can get the car to move forward. If not I'll figure out how to deal with the rear brakes maybe if I can remove the rear brake pads just so I came free up the rear wheels a bit more it will be enough to turn the car around.
Also just changed the oil in my motorycle so that's ready to go!
Also just changed the oil in my motorycle so that's ready to go!
#215
Well once I get the parts in for the fronts I'm hoping that now that the fron brakes arent stuck I can get the car to move forward. If not I'll figure out how to deal with the rear brakes maybe if I can remove the rear brake pads just so I came free up the rear wheels a bit more it will be enough to turn the car around.
Also just changed the oil in my motorycle so that's ready to go!
Also just changed the oil in my motorycle so that's ready to go!
Dude... You might be able to pull the pins and pull out the pads. My rears were dead and (dumbly) I drove her a few number of times with just front brakes that had not enough but sufficient power to hold, stop and move the car around.
With allllll your might,,,, promise yourself right now that you will absolutely resist the temptation to DE press the calipers forcing old fluid and goodness knows what else back into the system... Jus say'n... Someone else might chime in to tell that I'm thinking wrong about it,,, x2,,, but I think it would be a big mistake. If you can run the car at this point it should brake the stuck rears... I think.
#216
Ya I'm not gonna do that. I can move the rear wheels by hand with some force. I think it was the front right one that was seriously on there. I'll have to bleed the fronts once it all back together anyways. I'm trying to figure out what to do while I wait for the parts....... maybe I'll clean the rims up, I dont want to do any interior work until its moving and running ok.
Oh well. I'll scroll some posts and see if I get an ideas.
Oh well. I'll scroll some posts and see if I get an ideas.
#217
Rescue
With the rear brakes, either undo the nipples, or one of the brakelines, or even undo or cut the flexible, then you will not have to worry about pushing fluid back into the M/C. Then you can wrestle out the pads without worrying. Also, disconnect the handbrake cable, as sometimes that hopelessly weak handbrake can work!
With the rear brakes, either undo the nipples, or one of the brakelines, or even undo or cut the flexible, then you will not have to worry about pushing fluid back into the M/C. Then you can wrestle out the pads without worrying. Also, disconnect the handbrake cable, as sometimes that hopelessly weak handbrake can work!
#218
Rescue
With the rear brakes, either undo the nipples, or one of the brakelines, or even undo or cut the flexible, then you will not have to worry about pushing fluid back into the M/C. Then you can wrestle out the pads without worrying. Also, disconnect the handbrake cable, as sometimes that hopelessly weak handbrake can work!
With the rear brakes, either undo the nipples, or one of the brakelines, or even undo or cut the flexible, then you will not have to worry about pushing fluid back into the M/C. Then you can wrestle out the pads without worrying. Also, disconnect the handbrake cable, as sometimes that hopelessly weak handbrake can work!
#219
Rescue
With the rear brakes, either undo the nipples, or one of the brakelines, or even undo or cut the flexible, then you will not have to worry about pushing fluid back into the M/C. Then you can wrestle out the pads without worrying. Also, disconnect the handbrake cable, as sometimes that hopelessly weak handbrake can work!
With the rear brakes, either undo the nipples, or one of the brakelines, or even undo or cut the flexible, then you will not have to worry about pushing fluid back into the M/C. Then you can wrestle out the pads without worrying. Also, disconnect the handbrake cable, as sometimes that hopelessly weak handbrake can work!
#220