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Great resource, you will be bound to find one there, any XJS, any Series III XJ saloon, I think any series II.
he said he has one. I would need to supply the springs though which is fine. He said 300 bucks. Need to go for a drive once we are allowed to again. Havent gotten a chance to inspect more yet as other chores got in the way. But told the family today is Jag day lol.
Well good news is the inside of that part is solid. So for now I'm put it on the list. I know the rack and pinion will need to be redone eventually so I'll probably have it all ripped out and then I'll. Decide then weather to repair or replace.
Now to get these front brake obrake I can disconnect the rear brakes
Si just opened the box that i got from rock auto ...1/1... all that was in there was the ****ing rotors. nothing else. should have been the pads and hardware (rotors are part of a kit) and 2 remag calipers. super pissed. I contacted rockauto so hopefully i hear from them tomorrow. The box was repacked by DHL for customs so who knows. FML.
I can put the rotors and hub back together but now i am stalled again. ugh. good thing its sunday. I need a beer
What HAPPENED? Theres a pair O underwearz there!
Did ya POOP your pants when ya opened the RockAuto box!?!? Lol... I woulda
Same thing happened to me in my first order working on mine. Rock Auto. Shipped two LH calipers... Ashamed I pondered and studied and looked and scratched... Wondering why one bleed nipple faced down - or something that just didn't seem right...
I want to VISIT that yard and have a closer look at the one circled in red...
What HAPPENED? Theres a pair O underwearz there!
Did ya POOP your pants when ya opened the RockAuto box!?!? Lol... I woulda
Same thing happened to me in my first order working on mine. Rock Auto. Shipped two LH calipers... Ashamed I pondered and studied and looked and scratched... Wondering why one bleed nipple faced down - or something that just didn't seem right...
I want to VISIT that yard and have a closer look at the one circled in red...
Lol no I use my old underwear shirts whatever as rags lol
I got an email from rockauto saying something will be shipped tomorrow. I think it maybe the brake pads and hardware. The 2 calipers though I had to provide pics. I was wonder why the one box felt a little lighter. I'm wondering when DHL repacked it wherever did it just didnt put it in the box. Either way I hope it gets sorted. Or they owe me 250 bucks.
Well good news. Got emails saying the parts I was missing have been shipped out this morning and should be here Wednesday via FedEx. Thing is they are coming from Syracuse NY. Orginally they should have come from California. Strange but hopefully it's all good when it shows up.
Sadly this is the truth:
You have to remove the springs, support the engine with a beam, then remove the subframe from the car. Then give it a good clean and blast (sand/glass etc). Then take a good look at it. The rusty bit is not particularly structural, the important bit is where the spring actually sits (above the rust in the photo).
If that part is all solid, and very important, the upright part of the subframe that leads up to the top and the top wishbone fulcrum, then weld in steel and all will be well - this is the part of the subframe at the back of the piece you show in the photo. Even if the upright part is rusty, steel can still be welded in. If on the other hand the thing is shot, buy a decent second hand one and build up the front suspension with lovely new bushes and bits!
I have done such welding and saved a subframe, it is do-able; but if too far gone, forget it and source another.
Hey Greg... I've been reading about jack up the rear end. I'm getting conflicting things. sone have said not to put jack stands under the jacking points to support the car because the rear cage might fall out? To me this doesnt make sense but then again this is an xjs lol.
Just need to jack up the rear to disconnect the rear breaks like you mentioned earlier on how to do it.
I've also read to place the stands under the trial arms. But havent seen any actually pics.
What HAPPENED? Theres a pair O underwearz there!
Did ya POOP your pants when ya opened the RockAuto box!?!? Lol... I woulda
Same thing happened to me in my first order working on mine. Rock Auto. Shipped two LH calipers... Ashamed I pondered and studied and looked and scratched... Wondering why one bleed nipple faced down - or something that just didn't seem right...
I want to VISIT that yard and have a closer look at the one circled in red...
Hey Greg... I've been reading about jack up the rear end. I'm getting conflicting things. sone have said not to put jack stands under the jacking points to support the car because the rear cage might fall out? To me this doesnt make sense but then again this is an xjs lol.
Just need to jack up the rear to disconnect the rear breaks like you mentioned earlier on how to do it.
I've also read to place the stands under the trial arms. But havent seen any actually pics.
So hopefully you can clear this up for me.
Cheers
No bother.
The rear axle is only held into the car by the four rubber blocks of the cage mounts. These are fine when the car is on the ground, but when in the air the glue hlding the blocks to their steel fixings is under tension; i.e. the entire weight of the rear axle is trying to pull the rubber apart from its metal mountings.
So if you jack up the rear, either place the jack and a piece of wood, under the centre of the axle cage (thus keeping the axle mountings under compression) or, of you need to get at the axle, place the centre of the jack's lift pad (or axle stand) just an inch or so rearwards of the rear perimeter of the large radius arm bush. This distributes most of the lift into the chassis, but also supports the axle mountings enough to ensure the mountings do not fail.
No bother.
The rear axle is only held into the car by the four rubber blocks of the cage mounts. These are fine when the car is on the ground, but when in the air the glue hlding the blocks to their steel fixings is under tension; i.e. the entire weight of the rear axle is trying to pull the rubber apart from its metal mountings.
So if you jack up the rear, either place the jack and a piece of wood, under the centre of the axle cage (thus keeping the axle mountings under compression) or, of you need to get at the axle, place the centre of the jack's lift pad (or axle stand) just an inch or so rearwards of the rear perimeter of the large radius arm bush. This distributes most of the lift into the chassis, but also supports the axle mountings enough to ensure the mountings do not fail.
Ok thanks. I just need to get under the rear end to get at the rear brake lines for now.
So when I go to drop the rear cage eventually I would just lift the car normally as not to block the radius arms bush right?
So this is how my parking brake handle looks like. I'm sure its seized in the back. Yes greg I read your post on how to operate it. But this is how I got it lol. I can still push in the button, do the function. But nothing happens. But I cant tell if it's the rear breaks or handbrake siezed. I can move the rear wheels but it takes both hands and some force.
Ok thanks. I just need to get under the rear end to get at the rear brake lines for now.
So when I go to drop the rear cage eventually I would just lift the car normally as not to block the radius arms bush right?
To get at the brake lines, I would jack the car under the centre of the cage and have jack stands each side of the cage for safety.
When the time comes to drop the cage, this is what i do:
large jack under the cage centre and jack up the car, sited to the front part of the cage, as when you undo the cage it is front-heavy
jack stands under the rear jacking points, ready to take the weight of the car when the centre jack is lowered, and also providing safety
undo propshaft
undo handbrake cable
undo flexible brake line
undo and bash off the radius arm large bush end from the cup on the chassis.
undo and slide out the 8 bolts securing the cage mountings to the chassis rail
have a helper steady the cage
carefully drop the jack, the car rests on the jack stands and the cage lowers down. Lower it onto a pair of skates and you can push it about, or strap the skates to a pallet and drop the cage onto the pallet is even easier.
As the the parking brake, pull out the seat and undo the black cover and look inside, is the first step...
I would place them just aft of the big bush, rather than in the middle of the arm.
ok thats as close as i could get them due to the jack being on the jacking points. ill fix it later. when you say jack center of cage i assume you mean after removing that what looks like a plate covering everything?
ok thats as close as i could get them due to the jack being on the jacking points. ill fix it later. when you say jack center of cage i assume you mean after removing that what looks like a plate covering everything?
Understood.
Leave the plate and put a bit of softwood between it and the jack pad.
03-29-2020, 10:13 AM
