Much better cleaned. Gonna repaint it as it has some surface stuff on it.

 

Much better

 

Shift reprogramming kit

 

Radius arms ready.

 

So got the valve body out. And low and behold the plastic accumulator is broke. So ordered an aluminum one. Can't get it til Monday though. Oh well.

And man the last gasket on was a pain to scrape off. I got it all clean now and on the bench. I'll install what I can of the kit but I guess thats it for the weekend car work wise lol. Thats OK I promised the wife to help plant the garden this weekend so that will keep me busy.

I am glad I decided to take it apart though. Hopefully this will be it and I won't have to drop the entire transmission

 

Just ordered 4 kyb shocks for the rear. My birthday present from my wife. I'm so lucky!

 

While waiting for that order from sng I did some more preparation.

I finally removed the rest of the brake line I cut when I was trying to release the rear siezed brakes. So I out the new one in place loosely but im trying to decided which end should i mount first so then i can hook up the other end once i have the cage installed. Its pretty tight in there once the cage is in and the one bracket is held onto the frame by the cage mounting bolts and the other end mounts onto the cage.

Here's a pic.



So which end should I thread in first and 2nd?. Left is cage side and right is car side.

 

Rescue
First of all many congrats on your progress. If you have time, I for one, would be very grateful for a detailed account of how you install the Transgo kit and what it is like when it is in and running.

Brake line: you have to do up the cage side first, it is not at all easy to get it done up securely, and be sure you have,cage in car. Connecting it to the hard line is a pain, I hate doing it. You need short wrenches (15mm and 13mm from memory) to make it easy. I have a long term project to use a longer flexible and shorten the hard line similarly, and reposition the bracket a couple of inches lower, to make the join more accessible.

 

Thanks Greg.

I will provide more details of the shift kit. Its actually pretty simple. The instructions included are fairly simple and i would have been done the same day if it wasnt for that plastic accumulater valve that was broke. I'll take pics of the instruction manual and list what changes I did. There is so many adjustments you can do with this kit compared to the b&m one. There's even more if I was doing a full tranny rebuild. As for difference since I haven't really driven an xjs I'm not gonna be able to tell you the difference between stock and now but it should be much firmer (I didnt go with the most firm settings though). I am going to get the part today as well as some threaded bar to make guides for the pan. M2F

here's some ref videos that helped me understand it







As for that brake hose yes it does look like a pain. And 15mm and 13mm are correct. 15mm and 5/8s both works to brake it free.

I'm hoping those parts from UK will show up this week. My new shocks will be here thrusday. So good side I can get everything back together and have the car on the ground by this weekend. Bad side its another week after that. I don't want to start any bodywork until I can do it outside instead of in the garage.

 

Back together just need to put the pan on. I got to work tomorrow so afterwork I'll put the pan on. Afterwards I'll post a little write up with pictures of the instruction manual that came with the kit. But it is really easy. The manual was pretty good and with the videos I posted anyone can do it. Its kinda a pain doing it on your back compared to the tranny out but its doable.

 

Ok install of the transgo kit.

1st watch the videos a few posts up. Then watch them again. ok good. Now picture everything upside down. Now watch them again lol.

I won't get into removing the tran mount or pan. While you have them out nows a good time to replace the shifter cable if its orginal and looks bad because you have access to that mid bolt. One of the first things I did and its so much better if I have removed everything like right now.

Ok so you made a mess, trans fluid everywhere. Did you not use some sort of shipon to get rid of some fluid via the dipstick? Ok well next time you will.

So next is to remove the filter. Simple enough one bolt out (1/2) and pull. Pop its out. The plastic tube that its attached to...up pull it out. Did the oring come with or is it stuck up in there? If so go get it.

So now you should be looking at this

Take pictures so u can a reference as the gear selector (as show in the videos) has to go back the same way. The videos show this well. Also use a long screw driver to slowly pry the 2 feeder pipes out of there spots. One has a cone shaped filter. Just make sure you don't lose it. I took it out, cleaned it then put it right back in.



there are a number of bolts to remove. 1/2, 3 are 7/16, and the 2 small ones holding the kick down solenoid is 3/8.

As you remove the bolts fluid will drip out. The mess isn't over yet.

When you get down to one more two left be ready to lower it.

Now there is 2 items that have springs in there.

One that is short that is up in the housing and one that is long that sits under the accumulater cap. This cap may be plastic or aluminum. If it's plastic replace it with aluminum. Mine was plastic and as I lowered the value body springs went flying. Scared the crap out if me. You can see it below in 905 and 925. The cap 927 was busted.

As for when you go to reassemble the 905 partsn if they fell out, mine did, i used a lot of Vaseline to hold it up in the tranny. That sounded wierd but im not changing it. Lol. Some people use white lithium grease as well. This is also the same method to hold the check ***** into place during reassembly.


So once the valve body is down start cleaning up some more and take it to the bench. You could use a disposable turkey pan to capture the fluid coming out of it.

See how the brown plastic cap is in 2 pieces. To replace it with aluminum once everything was cleaned up i had to use some c clamps to squeeze the cap down into its hole so I could put the c clip that holds it into place. Its obvious



ok so you have it on the bench. Old gaskets are removed. Mine was baked onto and it took some work. Cleaned everything with brake cleaner and compressed air.

Also have a small cup of trans fluid beside you as you will need to lube some things while installing the kit.

Ok now all clean. Open your transgo box. Pull out instructions.

i will post each page of the manual and comment below it.


introduction


so if you are doing a full tranny rebuild read this page. If you got your v12 to make 450hp well high five and rear this page. For the rest of us skip this page



So this is optional. I did it. Theres a little pin that has to be removed and then use a small screw driver and magnet if you have one to remove that assembly. The kit comes with 2 1-2 shift valve (the last part to come out and left on the dia.)

Lune it all up and put it back in. Then turn over and put the small plug in. Just tap it flush with a rubber hammer.

Ok so now you can put the car in 1st and mash it until the engine blows. Also if you are doing 100mph on the hwy and want to slam it into first gear it will go. So don't forget.


so tip. When removing this assembly keep pressurpressing the outside plate as you remove the retaining pin. I didt and it flew up and hit me in the forehead. Not hard but better than in the eye.

My 88 had the common type. So it had an outboard spring. For the reinstall I went with the orange inner spring, just drops in there, no outboard spring. So the 2nd last one in the list for a shorter (firmer shift) but not the shortest.

Lube and reassemble.


ok now here you have to make a decision on what you want to do. The kit does come with one extra set of gaskets but only one center metal plate. Which is actually 2 plates with a channel between them.

So I decided to not go full race and did range 3 for both A & B holes (hotrod) for hole A .110 is 7/32 drill bit. For hole B .082 is not a fraction drill bit but a #45 .082 drill bit. Luckily my neighbor is a tool and die maker so he had one. so drilled the 2 holes hole C doesn't get drilled.

If I end up wanting to go to full race mode I can. You can always go bigger but not smaller.

After drilling the metal plate clean it all up.




So my trans had 7 check *****. You remove them all from the valve body if you havent already and then use the 5 supplied ones. Because the trans is in the car you take then instructions underneath with you and line it up , then use Vaseline to hold the ***** in place. Double check the locations.

I had just replaced my modulator valve with an adjustable one so I didn't use the pink spring. If I need to use it in the future its easy to get at.

So once your ***** are in place your are ready to install.

Now here's what i did. I placed the gaskets and steel plate on top of the valve body. The 2 gaskets are labeled VB...valve body and C for case. With the valve body on the bench I put the VB one down, then the plate, then the C one on top.

I used 2 guide studs 3 inches long to help line it up. Then its just a matter of buttoning it all back up, tapping those 2 feeder pipes back in (make sure the cone filter is in, lining up the gear selector correctly. Just finger tight. Then torque after.

Put tube back in (i put 2 orings on...was recommended so why not.....and filter back on and you should be at this point



I hope this helps. I'm still a week or 2 away for getting this ar back on the ground and months away to be road legal so I can't comment about the shifting but I've heard good things.

This kit is more expensive than the b&m (almost double) but its a better kit with more options.

I'll try to answer any questions but I watched those videos about 10 times each. Go slow and take your time. If your tranny is on the bench then this would take about 20 minutes to do. Lol.

Cheers

 

who tare? New shocks

 

This is what it comes with



so what parts do I keep? I will be taking the shocks to a shop to remove the springs so i can clean them up and paint them.

I think I need to keep #6 , #3 , #2 and #15. Anything else thats not nuts and bolts

 

Got the pan back on. Mount will be tomorrow.



New shock beside old one. Dont worry ill be cleaning the springs up first

 

Damn Dude,,, you're not messing around!
Great work and thanks for the lessons!

 

Haha thanks so much time on my hands. But im kinda stalled waiting for that damn bolt. So I'm doing little things like I wasn't happy with my transmission cable so took it out and reinstalled it better I think.

I just hope when I fire it up nothing explodes or no loud grinding noises. I'm still quite aways away to be road legal though.

Work.is starting to get back to normal next week. Not full 5 day work days but a couple days a week so that will slow me down. Was hoping to have the cage back in but one bolt is holding me up.

 

Was watching some videos and I was like I should check my pvc....

Well here it is....

 

Rescue - now what is that called.. Positive Crankcase Breather ... PCB LOL..
Anyway I have done mine.. plated the tube etc and a new cover, mine was nice and clean.

 

Not in my part of the world lol. Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

i don't think its every been cleaned lol.

 

Got the pcv all cleaned up as best I could reinstalled. I'll replace the filter at a later date.

But when I read the oil leaks post it sounds like he discarded the filter all together.