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I have a slow leak. Was faster when I put the tranny fluid in so I'm thinking dip stick but its half way up it? Or maybe something else. I put 5.5 litres in so maybe too much?
Best pics I could get. Its up high by what looks like a bracket. Its maybe a drop every 15 minutes now.
well i got in there with better light and rest. I wiped everything down and just layer there for about 30 minutes waiting for a drip to from. Turns out it wasnt coming from up top. Well it still could be knowing the car lol. But I pulled the vacuum regulater that I had just put in. The little o ring was ripped. Must have ripped it when I put it in and because the pan was leaking I didn't notice it. So I pulled that out, lost a pint of trans fluid and then grabbed a spare oring i had laying around and put it back together. So just waiting to see if I still have a leak from there. Fingers crossed.
I also dropped of the rear shocks to get disassemble at the shop. Once I get the srpings back I'll clean them up and then take them to the shop to reassemble with the new shocks.
While I wait for that bolt I decided that now the bottom is getting cleaner its time to move forward onto the oil pan. It leaks. Its obvious.
I've only run the engine for maybe an hour total since I got the jag so the oil is fresh in there but I will treat it like an oil flush.
Picked up 10L on sale today. I'm not changing the filter as its new as well.
Also picked up some seafoam cleaner to put in with the next batch of oil.
Once I get a couple of hrs of run time on the engine I'll do another oil change.
Once the oil pan is done all the other leaks are up top and im not planning to tear into the engine extensively until winter sets in as i want to drop the front sub frame and remove the front bumper and fenders as well. I need to get started on getting the 2 holes and other rust spots cleaned up for a safety check while the weather is nice outside.
Got the shocks back. Good news is that with these kyb shocks I don't need to use any of the old hardware. Which will make the mech happy as those c clips caught him off guard and said it was a pain to take apart. I was like of course it was...its a jag.
got my springs clean and painted as well as dropped my oil pan with the help of my wife who placed the bolts in my cardboard holder. This is a must as not all the bolts are the same length. All 1/2 though. And no I'm not missing some just put too many holes lol.
Rescue
The Great Palm has important stuff about the longer bolts. Apparently they go through into the crankcase space, not blind holes, and oil can migrate down the bolt from the open threads, and down the bolt shank and out between the bolt head and the sump flange. This will happen even if the flange gasket is sealing perfectly, unless there is a positive seal around the actual bolt/flange hole. So for starters, use a thread sealer on surgically cleaned threads of the long bolt and its threads in the block (eg Loctite thread sealer, not thread locker) and squirt copious amounts of brake cleaner up the crank case threaded holes to get them as oil free as possible.
Then ensure a dressing of RTV type sealer under the bolt heads as you insert them so any oil that does get down the shank cannot get out through the bolt hole.
Not that this is at all easy; I did all this some years ago and even so I get oil seeps now and then (although miles better than before), and I am about to have another go!
Of course, if you are going to adopt the Grant Francis RTV and no gasket plan, then that will do it too. Seee this thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...l-leak-232327/
Last edited by Greg in France; 05-31-2020 at 02:03 AM.
Rescue
The Great Palm has important stuff about the longer bolts. Apparently they go through into the crankcase space, not blind holes, and oil can migrate down the bolt from the open threads, and down the bolt shank and out between the bolt head and the sump flange. This will happen even if the flange gasket is sealing perfectly, unless there is a positive seal around the actual bolt/flange hole. So for starters, use a thread sealer on surgically cleaned threads of the long bolt and its threads in the block (eg Loctite thread sealer, not thread locker) and squirt copious amounts of brake cleaner up the crank case threaded holes to get them as oil free as possible.
Then ensure a dressing of RTV type sealer under the bolt heads as you insert them so any oil that does get down the shank cannot get out through the bolt hole.
Not that this is at all easy; I did all this some years ago and even so I get oil seeps now and then (although miles better than before), and I am about to have another go!
Of course, if you are going to adopt the Grant Francis RTV and no gasket plan, then that will do it too. Seee this thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...l-leak-232327/
That makes sense because when I was taking the bolts out I noticednoticed get ones had lots of oil on the threads compared to the shorter ones.
And yes I'm a gasket RTV guy. todays rtv is much better than it was. My guide stud collection is starting lol.
clean and painted. Looks better . Not perfect but im not going for perfect. Better than the rust on it lol. Debating on painting it aluminum color or just leave it flat black.
So decided to take the hood off. So much more room. I'm 6' 2" and I kept hitting my head on it. And since I'm not really gonna be road legal anywyas for a while i figured why not remove it and give me some more space. My wife helped me carry it down into the laundry room down stairs. Nice and safe.
Also when I removed yhe oil pan there's a little L shaped braket on one side that had a spacer for it that sits between the bracket and the pan lip. Don't know what its attached to above. Maybe hoses or something. But it's gonna make for replace the pan interesting as I have to slide it under first. Another wtf was jag thinking moment.
I circled it in this diagram but the spacer is not shown anywhere but its there.
Also when I removed yhe oil pan there's a little L shaped braket on one side that had a spacer for it that sits between the bracket and the pan lip. Don't know what its attached to above. Maybe hoses or something. But it's gonna make for replace the pan interesting as I have to slide it under first. Another wtf was jag thinking moment.
That small bracket together with an double clip-like bit is to secure the transmission cooler hard lines as they run along the RHS of the block. The spacer is so that the bracket does not pinch the lip of the sump pan when the thing is one up tight.
Never forget, take hundreds of photos before you undo anything! I did this during my rebuild, but even so I was stumped quite often!
That small bracket together with an double clip-like bit is to secure the transmission cooler hard lines as they run along the RHS of the block. The spacer is so that the bracket does not pinch the lip of the sump pan when the thing is one up tight.
Never forget, take hundreds of photos before you undo anything! I did this during my rebuild, but even so I was stumped quite often!
Ok thats what I thought as I could see the lines but its so covered in old oil and crud I couldn't see a bolt/screw head there.
I'm up to a few hundred photos now lol. I think i have more pictures of the jag than my 2 year old lol.
Good news...went to chrysler dealership that I bought my 2019 van from and the guy takes a shock and spring says I'll be right back, comes back 5 minutes later done lol. I said heres 3 more. 30 minutes done. Charged me 1/2 hr labour which is 60 bucks plus tax which was 78 but I had a 500 dollar gift card I got when I bought the van so didn't cost me anything.
Thanks for all the help though. Love this community.
After I remove the nut and washer on the output shaft should I not just be able to tap the shaft outwards? I've been trying but its not moving? Am i missing something. I just need it out far enough where I can angle the shaft and get the broke bolt out.
After I remove the nut and washer on the output shaft should I not just be able to tap the shaft outwards? I've been trying but its not moving? Am i missing something. I just need it out far enough where I can angle the shaft and get the broke bolt out.
Press? I would bring it the same dude that helped with the shocks. Car to car things can be quite different. Some folks have great luck with things coming away from eachother, others have to use a 30press for the same items. I read that the outer flange to carrier can be fairly easy, to impossible to the point where the carrier is destroyed in removing the axle.
Do you have a way to press it out? Rig something up with a hydraulic jack?
Press? I would bring it the same dude that helped with the shocks. Car to car things can be quite different. Some folks have great luck with things coming away from eachother, others have to use a 30press for the same items. I read that the outer flange to carrier can be fairly easy, to impossible to the point where the carrier is destroyed in removing the axle.
Do you have a way to press it out? Rig something up with a hydraulic jack?
Well even the ROM says to just remove it after the nut and washer is removed and another post I read said just a block of wood and a hammer hit to take it apart. I think i need a bigger hammer lol. I'm might try a gear puller as well. I don't need it all the way out just about half way so I can get the broke bolt out.
Well even the ROM says to just remove it after the nut and washer is removed and another post I read said just a block of wood and a hammer hit to take it apart. I think i need a bigger hammer lol. I'm might try a gear puller as well. I don't need it all the way out just about half way so I can get the broke bolt out.
Right On...
I gots to git me one ah them, ROMS... Never seen it. Which is crazy...
Rescue
I have never had a GKN diff apart, but I think that the bearing will be a pretty good interference fit onto the shaft (to prevent any chance of the inner part of the bearing slipping round the shaft in use). The problem will be if the bearing is damaged in the process of hammering or pressing it out. So get some definite info before getting rock-ape with it. Someone here will know. There is a special tool that might be the best thing to use, and your friendly Chevvy garage may well have one, in which case 10 mins and you are done, with no damage.:
05-28-2020, 03:07 PM
