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Got everything torqued down, parking brake adjusted pre cable. Looks good. Brake pads in place. She's ready to go in. Probably aim for Saturday morning. I'm gonna put it in position tomorrow probably just to finally get some agrage space back and visualize my plan of attack. I think hardest part will be getting that brake hose hooked back up to the car side.
I need to need up some more brake cleaner and some more brake fluid.
Rescue, find the small line round the cup/chassis join that indicates where the top edge of the (female) cup on the arm fits up to the (male) cup on the chassis. Get a cold chisel and a lump hammer and WHACK that join and after a few goes it will pop off. A HARD whack, mind.
FYI: Removing the other end on the lower wishbone arm requires the shock absorber bottom pin to be removed, and you will find it is held in place by a bolt with a flat cut off one side of the hex, this is to enable the bolt to be withdrawn, once undone, past the shock absorber guide tube in the wishbone. This bolt also ha a special star-shaped locking washer that has to be bent back from its locking position to undo the bolt. The photo shows the area, and the star washer before it was locked down. This end of the arm must NOT be tightened until the weight is back on the wheels.
I was just going back through the thread and I had remembered this tip about not tightening these bolts until the car is on the ground but i was wondering why this is important to do so?
I was just going back through the thread and I had remembered this tip about not tightening these bolts until the car is on the ground but i was wondering why this is important to do so?
That applies to all suspension bushings. They’re designed to be used in compression with the wheels on the road, so the bushing bolts should be tightened in that position. They don’t necessarily have to be tightened with the wheels on the ground, just with the suspension in compression. Put the jack under the hub and lift it until the car just starts to lift off the jack stand. IE when the weight of that corner of the car supported by the suspension. Tighten the bolts, repeat on the other side.
I was just going back through the thread and I had remembered this tip about not tightening these bolts until the car is on the ground but i was wondering why this is important to do so?
Because metalastic bushes allow for the suspension arm movement by allowing the rubber part to twist, rather than allowing the centre of the bush to rotate about the fixing bolt as if it was a bearing. Therefore, if the fixing bolt is tightened in place with the suspension on full droop (because the axle is off the ground), when the axle goes back on the car to the suspension's mid-point position, the bush will be twisted, rather than at its mid-point. Then when you go over a bump and the suspension compresses to its full-load position, the rubber has no more ability to twist any further as it is already quite twisted in what should be its un-twisted mid-point position. So the rubber sheers and the bush is toast.
That is nice - I have the body kit, tried to convince my wife on the hood mod very similar to that. At this stage it is a no - but maybe in the future
Keep up the good work
Cheers
Steve
Purists hate it but i want some sore of ventilation. I'm also toying with the idea of a ram air system but because the air intakes are so far off to the side I think it would look kinda silly. So might go with the cold air intake style instead using the quad headlight style.
So got everything back together. Took most of the day with some other life stuff. Putting those radius arms back on were kinda a pain. Besides that everything got greased in the back. Wheels back on. Off the stands. Didnt fire it up though because company showed up for dinner. So ill have to wait one more night. Been a long 2 months.
Purists hate it but i want some sore of ventilation. I'm also toying with the idea of a ram air system but because the air intakes are so far off to the side I think it would look kinda silly. So might go with the cold air intake style instead using the quad headlight style.
most people cut a hole in behind the light housing with intake ahead of the AC radiator and plumbed through.
I am considering some front vent/gilles when I do my paintjob for cold air intake maybe not as aggressive as the F-type. Theres plenty of room behind the wheel arch panels.
most people cut a hole in behind the light housing with intake ahead of the AC radiator and plumbed through.
I am considering some front vent/gilles when I do my paintjob for cold air intake maybe not as aggressive as the F-type. Theres plenty of room behind the wheel arch panels.
So sexy lol
I havent really jumped into the front end yet. I might have to replace the front sub frame. I have a small hole in part of it but i might be able to save it. Won't know till I dig into it. But im gonna take a little break and work on the body work now lol.
Let it warm up for 10 minutes. Wasnt shifting into gear..checked warm fluid lvl. Super low. Added .5L. Waited, cycled gears, still nothing, added .5L, repeat, finally goes into reverse, checked. Super low, added .5L..repeat. goes into drive... backed onto street. Test brakes...all good. Into driveway which is incline a little...check emergency brake...all good. Went around block...tires feel soft but old and will check to again. Came back. Fluid still low...added another .5L. Will check later its lunch time and I have no more tranny fluid on me lol.
No warning lights on dash except for low fuel.light...whens it come on..how many litres left? I put 12L.
Idles a little high 1200 maybe?
Temp gauge never got to the middle. Stayed lower good sign.
Gonna have lunch and then work on cleaning my garage
Going into R you coudl feel it but going into forward gears you could barely notice if it wasnt for the rpm changing.
Also are the lug nutz really 45ft lbs. Seems awefully low?
I seem to still have a little tranny leak but only when the rear of the car was higher than the front. Now parked in driveway at a different angle so we ill see where she leaks.
Wheel nuts are 75 to 80 ft llbs.
Many congratulations, it's a great feeling when you wake them up, isn't it?
If you are still awake lol. What psi do you recommend? The fronts are 195 60 15...don't ask wasnt me..and rears are 235 60 15. I have them all at 32 psi atm.
I find 32-34 psi generally suitable for most cars I've owned, including Jags.A decent starting point if noting else; it can be fine tuned to suit after driving.
I find 32-34 psi generally suitable for most cars I've owned, including Jags.A decent starting point if noting else; it can be fine tuned to suit after driving.
06-10-2020, 03:59 PM
