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It's a rebuild then!
The engine is bulletproof, just as long as the PO did not overheat that!.
I don't think he did just because I havent done anything to it but add some coolant at the beginning and its running very cool...almost too cool lol.
So now I need to figure out my plan of attack. I need to get the car at least 20 inches in the are. My 6 tonne stands go to 24.5. I only have 2 so I might buy another 2.
Besides that I think I have everything else. Just got to figure out how to support the engine. I have that platform I made for the IRS so I could put that under the oil pan on top of a jack. Then I need to figure out something for the transmission to sit on and be lowered. I still have a friends motorcycle jack but it doesn't go high. I will basically get the car up in the air and then figure i out. I'm not gonna lift the car though until I have everything in hand to go. So might be a week or 2 before I get started. Or more lol.
Besides that I think I have everything else. Just got to figure out how to support the engine. I have that platform I made for the IRS so I could put that under the oil pan on top of a jack. Then I need to figure out something for the transmission to sit on and be lowered. I still have a friends motorcycle jack but it doesn't go high. I will basically get the car up in the air and then figure i out. I'm not gonna lift the car though until I have everything in hand to go. So might be a week or 2 before I get started. Or more lol.
Rescue, when you start, let us all know, I recently did a gearbox removal and there are a couple of most important points to ensure you get right. This thread might be useful, although I have the luxury of a lift - mind you, you have to be retired before you get it! the handsome guy in the pics is my mate Michel. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ox-xjs-221677/
Rescue, when you start, let us all know, I recently did a gearbox removal and there are a couple of most important points to ensure you get right. This thread might be useful, although I have the luxury of a lift - mind you, you have to be retired before you get it! the handsome guy in the pics is my mate Michel. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ox-xjs-221677/
Yes it will be. Theres lots of threads but too little pictures.
I have to check as I might have a 12 point 7/16 socket as I think I have a set of 12 points.
Also that 12 point has been sited as 11mm for an 80 jag but I figure the 88 is the 7/16
Also found this list
steps include
Disconnect battery ground cable and remove transmission dipstick.
Remove bolt securing dipstick upper tube, then remove upper tube.
Position fender supports to allow installation of engine support tool, then attach engine support tool No. MS53B or equivalent, to engine lift brackets. Tighten tool hook to support engine weight.
Disconnect intermediate exhaust pipes and heat shields, then disconnect exhaust pipes from exhaust manifold.
Remove front and rear heat shields and rear support center nut.
Remove spacer, then using a jack, support rear mounting plate.
Remove bolts securing rear mount, then remove rear spacers. Lower jack and remove rear mount.
With rear of transmission supported with jack, remove crossmember.
Disconnect driveshaft from transmission and position aside.
Disconnect speedometer cable from transmission, then disconnect shift linkage.
Disconnect kickdown switch electrical connector and remove bolt securing switch wiring clip from transmission.
Disconnect modulator vacuum line, then remove clamp securing modulator and the modulator. Some fluid will drain from modulator housing when modulator is removed.
Disconnect oil cooler lines from transmission, then remove bolt securing oil line clamp to engine sump.
Remove right side steering rack bellows heat shield, then remove right side catalyst from exhaust manifold, if equipped.
Remove engine to transmission attaching bolts except two lower left side bolts and lower starter attaching bolt.
Remove lower dipstick tube. Attach transmission jack to transmission and remove remaining engine to transmission bolts. Lower transmission and remove from below vehicle. Use caution not to damage right side catalytic converter when removing transmission.
Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specifications.
So its gonna be a few weeks before I am ready to drop the transmission so I've decided to recheck my work. Maybe I ddi screw something up. And since im gonna drop it anyways I might as well take a look because I will be draining the fluid.
I already got the car jacked up so I just got to drain the fluid and drop the pain and see whats what. Also read some other 2 little things i maybe able to check.
I have to go to work this afternoon for a bit so I'll get at making a mess tomorrow lol
Well i went digging again and thinking. So I pulled the vacuum modulator which is new and I know is ok. I checked the valve behind it and it is stuck/sticking and from what I have read it should be moving freely. I just did this and its dark now so I'm gonna jump at it tomorrow morning and see if I can get it free with a magnet and needle nose pliers. When I removed the valve body I never thought to or look at this valve as its in the case. So if its gummed up with old crude that would make sense. Hopefully I can wiggle it out, give it a polish and slide it back in.
Well tried to get it to love and its definitely stuck in there. So gonna drain as much fluid and drop the pan then see if i can get it with just the pan off. If not then I'll have to drop the valve body and redo everything. Put it all back together and try again. At least all the old trans oil is out now that I've put so much through the system lol.
Also got some doctor tranny grease (green) coming tomorrow to help with the reassembly.
A sticking modulator valve will not cause it to slip. It could cause early, soft shifts, but would not prevent it from moving, and would not cause it to go into neutral when shifted to manual low. At worst, it would eventually cause it to burn a clutch, after causing early, soft shifts for a long time. I saw your picture of the trans pan and filter, they look nasty! I'm pretty sure you have a burnt clutch, probably the forward clutch based on your symptoms. Looks like the kit you ordered is pretty complete, I think that will take care of everything. These are a pretty basic transmission and pretty easy to work on as far as automatics go. Good luck with it.
These three options are not the whole story. The XJS was originally launched with the 5.3 litre fuel injection engine. It had the so-called "flat-head" cylinder head. This same engine was in the E Type and early models of the saloon, but with carburettors. The XJS was the first jaguar to have a fuel injected V12. It was powerful but used very large amounts of fuel, especially in traffic.
In about 1982/83 this same basic engine was produced with a new cylinder head designed by a Swiss engine combustion specialist called Michael May and called the HE cylinder head by Jaguar, HE meaning High Efficiency. This cylinder head gave a bit more power, but very much better part-throttle fuel economy. This is what is referred to as the HE engine.
Slightly confusingly, this 1982/3 relaunched version of the XJS was called the XJS HE. When launched, the XJS with the HE engine was fitted with catalytic converters for certain markets, but not for others. The USA cars for example had catalysts, but UK cars did not. So some HE cars had catalytic converters and some did not.
From later on, about 1989 or 1990 I think, all HE engined XJSs regardless of markets had catalysts.
Sometime in the late 1980s Jaguar stopped using the HE description on the V12 XJS and just called it the XJS V12. But the engine in the car remained the same HE version.
From about 1992 or maybe a year later (do not know the actual date), the 5.3 litre HE engine was expanded in capacity to 6.0 litres, but the cylinder head design remained the same apart from some mods to give the desired combustion ratio. So 6 litre engined XJSs have an HE-headed engine but just a bit larger in capacity.
I realize that HE was merchandised as High Efficiency but that’s not exactly the truth. California was going to really stiffen their smog laws after 1980 and since fully 50% of Jaguar’s sales went to California Jaguar had to make changes.
The factory bought Michael May’s modifications ( he called the fireball design) to bring the car into smog compliance. The head design originated with Buick in the early 20’s. In the 30’s Chevy used it ( called it the fireball head) and remained using it until into the 50’s in their sixes.
The improved fuel mileage was due to several improvements which occurred at the same time or shortly prior. The big improvement was to switch from the loose Borg Warner to the twice as efficient GM Turbo 400 At the same time there was an increase in the compression ration from 7.8-1 to 11.5-1 And improvements in the fuel injection system along with a switch from either the 3:31 or 3:07 ratio to the 2:88 Rear end ratio.
Since horsepower remained the same and the improved fuel mileage can be accounted for by other improvements. Where is the efficiency?
Could HE stand for Help Emissions ?
Eventually I want to exit in from of the rear tires. Love that look and have done it on other exhaust. And being an 88 I dont have to worry about emissions.
So I guess I need to find UK headers? Or is there another option
Don’t waste your money on headers. Most Jaguar “ “ headers” aren’t. That is they are nothing more than tubular Exhaust manifolds. They don’t gain you any horsepower in back to back dyno tests.
Real racing headers are designed off the camshaft specs and if properly designed for a V12 give you a 4% increase. Mine required 27 feet of tubing between the primary’s and collectors. That’s a lot of tubing to stuff in the engine compartment.
Weight wise the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds weigh just 4 pounds each. So there is no weight savings either.
The reason The V12 doesn’t make a big improvement like a V8 does is because of the firing pattern of a V12 compared to the V8.
If you listen to a V12 you hear all 12 cylinders firing. If you listen to a V8 you hear 6 firing and a stumble. The reason is adjacent cylinders on a 90 degree V8 fire from 90 degrees to 270 degrees apart
Adjacent cylinders on a 60 degree V 12 fire 120 degrees apart.
Not that power increases can’t be made on the exhaust system. The big increase is to go 1/2 inch bigger pipe after the manifold and eliminate the triple pass mufflers with more efficient mufflers. Yes you will definitely hear an increase in exhaust noise especially if you plan to exit in front of the rear tires.
Don’t waste your money on headers. Most Jaguar “ “ headers” aren’t. That is they are nothing more than tubular Exhaust manifolds. They don’t gain you any horsepower in back to back dyno tests.
Real racing headers are designed off the camshaft specs and if properly designed for a V12 give you a 4% increase. Mine required 27 feet of tubing between the primary’s and collectors. That’s a lot of tubing to stuff in the engine compartment.
Weight wise the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds weigh just 4 pounds each. So there is no weight savings either.
The reason The V12 doesn’t make a big improvement like a V8 does is because of the firing pattern of a V12 compared to the V8.
If you listen to a V12 you hear all 12 cylinders firing. If you listen to a V8 you hear 6 firing and a stumble. The reason is adjacent cylinders on a 90 degree V8 fire from 90 degrees to 270 degrees apart
Adjacent cylinders on a 60 degree V 12 fire 120 degrees apart.
Not that power increases can’t be made on the exhaust system. The big increase is to go 1/2 inch bigger pipe after the manifold and eliminate the triple pass mufflers with more efficient mufflers. Yes you will definitely hear an increase in exhaust noise especially if you plan to exit in front of the rear tires.
Well right now all I have on is the headers and the cats right after the header cats lol. Rest is under my deck til I go to scrape yard lol.
Ya im not gonna touch the headers. Like you said not really a point. Got to gut the cats though lol
I forgot to mention. So over a month ago there was a gentleman by the name of Brian from the UK on a xjs Facebook group who was asking if anyone wanted an extra xjs handbook he had, just pay for the shipping. So I messaged him to see if he would ship it to Canada. He said he was raised in Canada for the first 7 years of his life and he would gladly ship it. I gave him my info and he shipped it but he won't accept any money from me. Said it was a gift.
I think he is an older gentleman and I have his address so I'm gonna send him something canadian unknowns to him as an exchange and saying thanks. Maybe some maple syrup lol
Anyways now I have a handbook. I'm excited so now to have an original user manual. It has a little water damage but thats at the back of it.
So I read through the manual this morning. Didn't know there was a dimmer for the dash lights. Found it and half the day lights work. Thats half more than the 0 I had before lol.
No trammy work done. Too damn hoDamir off after Wednesday so ill jump at it then. I have decided I'm just gonna prep for tranny removal. I'm sure and has been mentioned. The stuck valve would cause my issues.
Well i tried the heat gun. Still cant get the pan off.
So honna drop the transmission which was probably gonna happen regardless. So I have all the information necessary to do this. Just need to get the car up high enough which shouldn't be a problem. Then organize the garage to be ready for it. Gonna be messy but fun I think.
So I read through the manual this morning. Didn't know there was a dimmer for the dash lights. Found it and half the day lights work. Thats half more than the 0 I had before lol.
No trammy work done. Too damn hoDamir off after Wednesday so ill jump at it then. I have decided I'm just gonna prep for tranny removal. I'm sure and has been mentioned. The stuck valve would cause my issues.
Too HOT??? OHHHHH My Brother...
My image of the AMAZING rescue man, has just been,,,,,
06-17-2020, 11:00 AM
