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since I am taking out the transmission should I replace or upgrade the stall converter? New ones aren't expensive and since im gonna have it out anyways
If replace what stall? 2500? 2000?
The original is about 2000 RPM stall.
I went to a 2500 RPM stall and was pleased with the result.
IMO....
Be wary of inexpensive torque converters. If you plan on using all of the 6500+ RPM the V12 is capable of many garden-variety rebuilt and/or low cost converters might not hold up and/or might not be balanced well enough. I had TCI Transmissions build a hi-spec converter for me; the guy I spoke with was versed in Jaguar V12.....but that was probably 15 years ago. It cost about $500 at the time.
You may not have to spend that much but do get some details and/or talk to the manufacturer before buying
I went to a 2500 RPM stall and was pleased with the result.
IMO....
Be wary of inexpensive torque converters. If you plan on using all of the 6500+ RPM the V12 is capable of many garden-variety rebuilt and/or low cost converters might not hold up and/or might not be balanced well enough. I had TCI Transmissions build a hi-spec converter for me; the guy I spoke with was versed in Jaguar V12.....but that was probably 15 years ago. It cost about $500 at the time.
You may not have to spend that much but do get some details and/or talk to the manufacturer before buying
Cheers
DD
Thanks Doug for the info. From what I've seen decent ones are around 500 still. Its fairly common and lots to choose from.
Also by chance do you know how many torrington bearings I would need to replace the thrust washers? I think its 3 but not sure. Kits seem to be 3 as well.
Great stuff Rescue, that is exactly what i did too!
Thanks. I got all but the 2 bottom left and the one bottom right left to do. Got hot now so gonna wait till tomorrow morning to undo those 3 and drop it with help from a buddy. My arms are covered in oil lol. I can't wait to clean everything under there once its dropped.
3/8 15mm socket i modified to use a 3/4 wrench on it to access them as the oil pan is in the way.
Here is my tool setup for this part so you can see
I got this tip from searching online. worked great if you dont have the oil pan off.
Nice. But on my car, 83 HE, there is a hole on the left side above the oil pan level, to access the torque converter bolts. I only had to remove the oil filter, then they were easy to reach.
So I cant seem to get the transmission to pull away from the engine. Me and a buddy tried pulling wiggling etc. We can see it pulling a few centimeters from the bottom.
I think the alignment dowels are the issue?
Here's the bolts I've removed from the bell housing
Also ended up removing the drive shaft.
Does the starter have to come out? I thought just removing the 2 bolts that attach it to the bell housing was enough?
There are 10 bolts holding the tranny to the engine, Rescue, you have missed one!
Ugh ok. I wonder if its more on the left side. I can get my hand up on the right side and feel up there but the left side (linkage side) seems a little tighter.
You don't have a picture do ya so i kinda know where i can search lol?
Ugh ok. I wonder if its more on the left side. I can get my hand up on the right side and feel up there but the left side (linkage side) seems a little tighter.
You don't have a picture do ya so i kinda know where i can search lol?
Got that ****er. Was on the left side of center. I lowered the engine back just enough so I could get a little more room. Then it was a matter of pushing and turning in the area until the socket grabbed something lol.
It shouldnt splash you like a fire hose, but a little is normal as per a quick google search. I skimmed some chevy forums on this issue maybe take the whole modulator governer thing out and inspect? Some ppl with similar problems suggested its a fault in a nylon gear.
Transmissions not my strong point obviously BUT...we share a trans with the other car/truck communities so you may have a silver bullet somewhere on another forum if you search this issue with the right keywords.
another way to test things (at your risk, given the uncertainty) is to put it in 1st and drive HARD till you force shift at 5500rpm then repeat in 2nd to force into 3rd. It'll bypass a faultt vac issue if thats the case.
If you blow up your trans I have a spare lol
Originally Posted by Dleit53
Nice. But on my car, 83 HE, there is a hole on the left side above the oil pan level, to access the torque converter bolts. I only had to remove the oil filter, then they were easy to reach.
Yes, easy access to the torque converter bolts through the port behind the oil filter.
This is the point where I decided I was better off moving to the 700r4.
So got a little started. Got the pan off. Much easier when you can get a hammer swing onto the thin plaster spreader, only took a few minutes.
So this is my pan and filter after maybe what 2 to 4 hrs of run time...and 2 flushes.
So glad I'm rebuilding it now because I don't think there is any clutches left lol
Got the valve body off. About it. Its so hot and humid out. I'm either gonna be doing stuff early if im off work or late when I am working. I'm hoping to have it all done and back before I go on vacation which is August 1st.
I'm no transmission expert of any kind, but it looks like you overdid the sealant there and got some inside? Like i said, no clue really..just looks a bit weird.
I'm no transmission expert of any kind, but it looks like you overdid the sealant there and got some inside? Like i said, no clue really..just looks a bit weird.
No thats not sealent in the pan. Its clutch material.
Look up in the tunnel, there was a foam insulation padding from OE.inthere.
They degrade, fall down, do bugga all.
I removed all mine, went to the local speed shop, and the HGotRod boys use a 21st century thin blanket arrangement.
I glued it up with the glue they provide for under bonnet insulation, very Hi Temp stuff.
This allows more air OUT of the engine bay, and is very important in my opinion.
My cars were quieter, and I "reckon" slightly cooler around the tunnel area.
07-02-2020, 09:56 AM
