XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Rescue's Official Build Thread - 88 XJS V12 Oct 12 2019

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  #761  
Old 10-14-2020, 06:09 PM
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Got my insulation for the tunnel. So plan is to tackle it all weekend. Fingers crossed. Will be bunch of pics coming up
 
  #762  
Old 10-17-2020, 11:40 AM
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Ready to go in. Just waiting for the wife to get home while.i watch the kids.





I think getting the starter aligned, and the 2 brackets that bolts go through might be a pita.

Main goal is to get the transmission bolted to the engine, and drive shaft back in. Tomorrow will be everything else. I might leave the shields off until I do a test drive around the neighborhood. I need some of those small screws replaced anyways.

 
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  #763  
Old 10-17-2020, 02:36 PM
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So long story short. The torque converter i got is the wrong bolt hole pattern. I mean its 9 1/2 centers. I need 10" centers. I knew I should have measured it when I picked it up but I trusted the transmission shop.to check as.i gave them the old one. So ill have to wait till Monday to call and loose my **** on them. And im away for the day for work so won't be able to drop off this one till Tuesday
hopefully have a replacement by Friday. Fml
 
  #764  
Old 10-21-2020, 03:46 PM
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Called the shop today. The shop they got the tc from sent them a flywheel so they asked me if I wanted to replace the flywheel. I'm not sure how different the flywheel they sent compared to the factory one but I didn't want to risk it so I said no and ill wait til I get a torque converter. Maybe Friday.

I'm gonna have to do the front brakes rotors/pads on my wifes Ford edge this weekend as well. Gonna be busy weekend.
 
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  #765  
Old 10-22-2020, 12:24 AM
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Very sensible not to change the flexplate. And Madame will be pleased!
 
  #766  
Old 10-23-2020, 04:37 PM
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Good news...got the new new torque converter. 6 bolt too. Spent the last hour putting the transmission in. Not tighten up but transmission is connected and drive shaft as well. Tomorrow spending the day completely it hopefully.

Very happy.

Also I finally saw a XJS in the wild. Was a beige convertible. Wife was with me and I said oh look...she said that looks nice...I said I know thats what we have lol...minus the convertible. So still allowed to own it haha.

Cheers everyone.

 
  #767  
Old 10-24-2020, 10:18 PM
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Didn't get it 100% back together. Had some delays throughout the day not jag related lol. All I got to do is put the torque converter bolts to the flywheel, hook up the shifter cable, attach upper filler tube, and put the rear mount back on. Im not putting any of the shields / guards back on at this time as since I'm testing everything and I won't be out in about til next spring anyways lol.

Also need to by some tranny fluid. 10L should do lol.

unrelated question

Can I drive the jag without the front bumper and fenders removed? Reason is I want to put the jag in the middle.of the garage and remove those items then move the to the side for engine disassembling.

 
  #768  
Old 10-25-2020, 04:09 PM
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So the jag is back on all floors.... but the battery was dead lol so while its charging I cleaned up all the tools etc.

Probably start it tomorrow afternoon once wife gets home from work

Not gonna lie im nervous about starting it and shifting gears. fingers crossed.


 
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  #769  
Old 10-26-2020, 03:34 AM
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good luck

when i rebuilt and refitted my GM400 3 speed box, and started it for the first time, i felt the same, and as it turned out i thought i had killed it..........but panic not, it was just low on fluid and an extra amount of transmission fluid enabled the car to work correctly,

take it slow and steady and dont panic if it doesn't do what you think it should first time around

BB
 
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  #770  
Old 10-26-2020, 02:57 PM
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So the fuel pump isn't coming on. Started going through he checklist but not sure why it would be. It worked fine 2.months ago before I parked.

The fuel cut off switch is ok. All the relays look ok.

Starting to attempt checking electrical. Is there any fuels I should look for?

 
  #771  
Old 10-26-2020, 03:05 PM
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Rescue, some suggestions:
Check that the two leads that are connected to the actual battery positive thick cable, about halfway along it, are really engage in their socket.
Check by hot wiring it that the pump is actually OK, you need a positive AND a negative to the pump to do this.
Check that the fuel pump relay is clicking when the ignition is turned on. The relay is under the RHS boot trim, against the inside of the buttress.
 
  #772  
Old 10-26-2020, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Rescue119
So the fuel pump isn't coming on. Started going through he checklist but not sure why it would be. It worked fine 2.months ago before I parked.

The fuel cut off switch is ok. All the relays look ok.

Starting to attempt checking electrical. Is there any fuels I should look for?
Start checking at the FP relay and Main Relay in the RH side of the boot near the hinge....

Not even for the 2 second prime?
 
  #773  
Old 10-26-2020, 03:23 PM
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Nope no 2 second prime.

I got my 10 year old to turn on the ignition and I here a click / spark sound from the pump.

I tested the continuity of the cut off and its good too

 
  #774  
Old 10-26-2020, 03:31 PM
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Checked those 2 big brown plus.

So I guess I should check the black relay?

Kinda trying to follow this.



 
  #775  
Old 10-26-2020, 03:39 PM
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Can I remove this bracket to get better access?


 
  #776  
Old 10-26-2020, 03:48 PM
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yes, easily , or go for the whole black back bracket

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  #777  
Old 10-26-2020, 03:55 PM
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I have the relay out and there is resistance continuity between 85 and 86 on the black relay

 
  #778  
Old 10-26-2020, 04:13 PM
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Ok so finally figured out which term was 86. As per step a i tested for battery voltage at term 86. It was 0. I tested the red relay beside it to make sure I was doing it right and I got 12v right away.

So it says if no check battery supply from ignition switch via inertia switch... but how lol
 
  #779  
Old 10-26-2020, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Rescue, some suggestions:
Check that the two leads that are connected to the actual battery positive thick cable, about halfway along it, are really engage in their socket.
Check by hot wiring it that the pump is actually OK, you need a positive AND a negative to the pump to do this.
Check that the fuel pump relay is clicking when the ignition is turned on. The relay is under the RHS boot trim, against the inside of the buttress.
Will this work to bypass the relays




 

Last edited by Rescue119; 10-26-2020 at 07:34 PM.
  #780  
Old 10-27-2020, 02:09 AM
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Rescue
The ORANGE wire from the pump relay is the EARTH wire. It actually runs to the ECU which earths it, and cuts the earth if the engine does not start to turn after 2 or 3 seconds.
If you run a wire direct to earth from the relay socket terminal that this orange wire connects to, and turn on the ignition, the pump will run continuously providing 12v is going to the relay trigger circuit from the ignition switch.
If you are saying, ignition on, there is no 12v to the relay to trigger the pump circuit, then that is your problem. Fixing which is a separate issue.
Under these circumstances, to test run the car or to test the pump, remove the cover beneath the battery to reveal the pump. Run an earth wire from the pump negative to the battery/chassis, and run a 12v wire to the pump positive. This will make the pump run regardless of whether the ignition is on or not, so just use it as a test and then disconnect it.

As to why no 12 v at the pump relay:
On the diagram you posted above, the high-current to the pump relay comes direct form the battery, check that theer IS 12 v at this terminal of the socket
The 12v to the trigger circuit comes from the relay next to it, assuming nthis is the circuit you describe as no voltage, I would clean up the sockets, test the other relay is outputting 12v to the pump relay trigger circuit, and if still not 12 v at the pump relay, rewire between the two.
 

Last edited by Greg in France; 10-27-2020 at 02:14 AM.
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