Rescue119,

I hate to point it out, but that's your brake fluid reservoir in the pic...

Paul

 

Well **** lol. Damn Brits. So it's the other box underneath the LHS air filter then lol. Thanks.

So how can I check the rad fluid level then? Is there a sight somewhere. Or do I wait till its pouring out that overflow?

 

Here is the official bleeding procedure, see the link in the post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...6/#post1879923

And here is Doug's procedure: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1560803

For now, you might just want to top it up, once you change theremostats you'll want to flush and bleed the entire system. Basically, you can fill (slowly) the crossover pipe at the front of the engine. Add fluid slowly to allow the air to burp. Don't just fill the header tank at the left side inner fender.

Just this summer we went through the proper thermostats, take a look through the archives

 

[QUOTE=Rescue119;2141241...So it's the other box underneath the LHS air filter then lol. Thanks.
[/QUOTE]


Unfortunately, I suspect the one you're referring to is the power steering reservoir!

See the thread referenced to by Jagboi64. , The Jaguar XJS HE coolant system is very complicated using a hidden expansion bottle. It's a complicated filling and bleeding procedure made worse by the height of the components in the engine bay. It really has to be done properly.

Good luck

Paul

 

Thanks

 

Ya I'm figuring it out lol. Just when I think I've discovered something it ends up something else. Need to read this book more lol.

 

No it's on the left inside fender. The remote header tank. This.

 

Didnt get a change to get under the car. I'm thinking it might be the vacuum line that goes to the tranny. Might be off or that regulator might be shot. I'll investigate more tomorrow.

 

If the vac line is off then it would only upshift at redline. That won't affect shifting from park or reverse. From under the car try moving the shift lever at the transmission manually and see if it goes through all the detents. Also make sure that the cable actually can move in it's sheath and it isn't rusted to the outer housing. I pulled a cable one time and the inner portion had rusted so the cable just kinked rather than move the shift lever on the transmission. I put it in a bucket and did the battery charger de-rusting technique and that removed enough rust to allow it to work again.

I think there is also an anchor point for the shift cable to the transmission case. This will all be on the left side of the transmission.

 

Fingers crossed it's that simple lol.

 

yep that will not make u shift lol.

 

That will do it all right!

 

I cant get the damn cable out. Seems to tight to fit through?


step 14 I cant seem to see the trunnion block..whatever that is?

 

The trunion is a block of metal that the inner cable goes through. It's the anchor point for the outer sheath of the shift cable to the transmission body. Follow it back from the end at the transmission and you'll see it. I think it's a single bolt that holds it to the transmission case.

It's labelled 14 in the top right of the diagram you posted, with the leading line showing it just rearward of part 15.

 

Dont know what size do ya? Lol

But I should be able to access it from the access port?

 

Ok found it. Its 1/2 bolt. Its tight. I got a wrench on it but it's pretty rusted so sprayed it with penetrating lube. Will get at it tomorrow.

This is from the front access port looking back.

 

This is a new one for me. Describe, please !

Cheers
DD

 

Ordered new cable. Wont get here till Thursday though

 

I noticed that pivot that the cable attaches to was snapped off and the end is in the cable. Looks like a mini trailer hitch ball, you'll need that piece too. I have no idea if you might be able to find something similar at a junkyard from a GM car/truck with the TH400 transmission.

 

It's a technique for partially reversing rusting by a chemical method, rather than just mechanically removing rust. Great for things like the shift cable, where you don't have access to mechanically remove rust.

Basic procedure to to use a non conductive container that is big enough for your parts. I typically use a plastic 5 gallon bucket, or some of the storage containers in the housewares section of a department store also have useful containers. Important thing is that it doesn't conduct electricity, so no metal containers.

Fill the container with water and add either washing soda or baking soda to the water at about 1 tablespoon per gallon. You'll often find washing soda in the cleaning products section of the store, or with soaps and detergents. Amount isn't critical, this isn't a super precise exercise. Add enough water to cover the part you want derusted.

Next you need a piece of scrap steel that is the sacrificial terminal. Iron ions will be taken from this piece and travel to the rusted piece we want to restore, so over time this piece of steel be become degraded. Surface area is important, so I use pieces of sheet metal. Make sure it's free of paint or oil/grease, as the metal needs to be electrically conductive. The larger the surface area, the faster the process will work.

You also need a battery charger, ideally 5-10 amp. Preferably not one of the "smart" chargers, I have an old fashioned RV style charger with an amp meter. A little trickle charger won't have enough power to do the job. Clip the negative lead to the part to be cleaned, and the positive to the sacrificial piece of metal. Keep the positive charger clip out of the solution, as it can be eroded too. The negative can be in the solution.

Immerse both the part to be cleaned and the sacrificial piece in the solution, and make sure they don't touch each other. The electricity flows through the solution, allowing an ion exchange between the pieces, and it tends to mostly work on a "line of sight", so if you are cleaning a piece of sheet metal you might need to turn it partway through the process so both sides have a chance to face the sacrificial piece of steel. The washing/baking soda allows the electricity to flow through the water.

Turn the power on, and you'll see hydrogen bubbles soon coming up from the part. You might also get a rusty foam on the water surface after a while. This is normal. I use the highest power setting and see how many amps I draw. As the derustign proceeds, the current will taper off. It will probably take a few hours, and the part to be cleaned will turn greyish black. When it does that, it's done as much as it can do. Turn the power off and remove the part, making sure though this process that the metal parts do not touch, otherwise you'll short out your battery charger. Remove the part when it's done, otherwise it will rust again in the water.

When you have removed the parts I use a scothbrite pad to clean off the black deposit where possible, and then I lightly oil the parts if applicable to prevent flash rusting. Or paint them.

That's it, it's a simple process to do, and has worked well for me. I was able to get a pair of side cutters working again after they had invariantly been left in the rain and rusted in place. After the derustign bath and some penetrating oil the jaws opened and closed smoothly again.