If i didnt move every four years i would have this for sure. plus a lift lol

 

So found the "block heater" as us Canucks call it. Most are in the block but not this one.

Orange piece is the element into the metal T which us spliced into the lower larger rad hose.





im gonna remove it. Looks.like a 1" wrench. Hoping I can drain the system from there. I'm replacing the hoses anyways so worse case I undo the hoses. I do not have a pet ****....

My wife does ....

Also

It's getting warmer

 

As im.putting my.shopping lists together what gasket should I get.

So far I have both valve cover gaskets and both thermostat gaskets. The oil pan was all ready done. I'm not removing the heads. I feel like there should be more.

Everything works in the engine ok but it just needs a good going over so I'll call it a soft refresh and tune.

also I want to remove all the emissions stuff. I believe the air pump is part fo this?

Did anyone make a how to on this. I'll keep googling but if you have a favorite link it please.

Trying to minimize the engine bay as best I can. Still undecided about removing the a/c or just service it.

I'm gonna budget about 2k cdn and so far I'm up to 700 in parts. But haven't sourced a fuel injector rebuild kit. V12 performance has one but I've heard stories that make me run away.

Speaking of injectors they should still be fin shouldn't they. One they are rebuilt? I don't need to get new injectors. I don't think I do. And I see long hose vs short hose. Anyone know the measurements on these so I know if I have long or short.

Thanks.in advance as always.

Glad to be back.

 

Injectors will be fine from an actuating point of view, but they will need new rubbers and hoses, if these are the originals. Mr Injector makes a good kit all ready to fit.
https://mrinjectoruk.co.uk/Jaguar-V1...7-P298680.aspx
The injector harness may be old and cracking, if it is, you must, absolutely must make one or buy one. Also the thermostats will be best renewed, and any hoses not done. Apologies if you have already done all this earlier on in the thread!
Have you got the half-moon seals for the cam covers? or nice aluminium aftermarket ones to be smart?

 

That link says they are closed for the holidays and will reopen but maybe they didn't do to covid?

Never thought about the electrical harness. I havent really inspected it yet. So I'll keep that in mind.

Nope completely forgot about that little piece in the back so thank you again for the 100th time.

 

Ring the guy up, the link worked when i just tried it:

https://mrinjectoruk.co.uk/ContactUs.aspx

 

Ok im gmt +5hrs and haven't had my cuppa yet. Lol

Same with the aluminum half moons. I found one on ebay but doesn't have the rubber seal.

the one with the rubber seal is being hard to track down. I got time anyways. Just the 1 month shipping from UK for some items is a pita.

 

Kirby recommends no gaskets for the cam covers? And I guess ill need intake gaskets as well. He also mentions to cut the intake gaskets up instead of laying in one piece. I have printed out your PDFs and haven't gotten that far yet but before I order stuff should I head Kirby advice or is it outdated?

 

You need the gortex (ie genuine OEM) cam cover gaskets with a light dressing of this stuff each side:
https://www.gasgacinch.com/
This combo is the absolute bees knees, I used it on my diff cover and the diff is BONE dry, which is almost unheard of. The ally seals will be fine with RTV to seal them to the block. Or the rubber OEM ones ditto - which Grant 100% recommends, by the way.
What the Great Palm is right about is sourcing slightly longer cam cover fixing bolts and allen-key headed ones at that, and using wider washers and spring washers, as in this pic when i did mine. 100% oiltight for over 10 years. BUT, be careful to identify the threads on the OEM fixing bolts: they may be UNC or Metric, and the two look nearly identical

the other thing is the possible weep from the tappet block/head interface. This was not sealed from the factory, and can leak, in fact is the most likely leak-place, I believe. if you clean it up and sand the join area with coarse paper, then seal it with hi-temp RTV, it will hold leaks perfectly. And you can probably do it far more neatly than I did!

 

great pics. thank you!

i think ive found just about everything online now.

 

Well after looking at the price of a new wiring harness for the injectors i might as well build my own. just need to find a decent how to with some parts numbers. I did read that the plugs are standard. then just need to buy some wire which I think i may have some 16g left over.

 

https://mobeck.com/produkt/jaguar-v12-efi-kit/

this would be nice but not at 8k cdn lol

 

Is this thermostat any good. It's 160 so a lot cooler. And has the jiggle pin

 

Rescue
Use the correct temperature thermostats! Take a look at this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ywhere-213647/

 

i have rebuilt the injector harness myself for both of my cars. It really is not that difficult, just time consuming. Like most XJ-S repairs.

 

Ordered thanks. thanks.

I just spent almost 1k on ording parts this morning lol

 

Money well spent. You would only have wasted it on pensions saving, booze and the housekeeping budget!

 

Well I will have a pension, I have savings, I don't drink like I use too and I am the house keeper lol.

plus I should be promoted next year when I get posted and make a crazy tonne of my current house because the market is going insane here.

I told my wife with the money I'm getting this month I could just go buy a running Jag. The look I got was priceless

 

Just looking through my emails.

4 states, NY, TX, OH, and CA

3 countries , 🇬🇧 🇺🇸 🇨🇦

Gonna be lots of trucks at my place next week

 

So finally price for this kit is about 250cdn dollars (shipping and the duties DHL charged after initial charge included). But its the proper kit and has clamps and was in stock. Just putting it here for my fellow Canadiens.