Early 88 so luckily still the Lucas.

Ya I figured that about the beam. I'll give it a good cleaning then. It's sound just looks crappy. But so did my IRS before I redid it so there's hope lol.

 

Came across this post. Seems the most relevant for what I plan to accomplish.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-lines-213457/

The lines that he drew colors on. Are they the correct ones? Trying to figure this vacumm system out is mind boggling.

I'm have all the pictures printed out to reference.

I'm still gonna start on the air pump side tomorrow after I remove the clutch fan.

Only vacuum line I know is the on going to the transmission lol.

 

Rescue
You have several separate vac systems:

1. the fuel vapour purge system. All this can be removed and the tank vented to air through the thin metal pipe that emerges in front of the LHS rear wheelarch (the one connected by a rubber pipe to the purge canister in the engine bay LHS.
2. the start up/distributor vac/dumping system. As you have a Lucas car, this can be disconnected/removed and a vac line run direct from the inlet manifold to the vac capsule on the distributo (you should find an unused blanked spigot under the A bank throttle body that is handy for this mod). Also check the vac capsule holds vac and does move the dizzy spindle.
3. the vac line to the cruise control, leave this intact
4. the vac line from the gearbox, leave this intact.
5. The line from the dizzy top to the AAV rubber, this must be kept to ventilate the dizzy.

 

Thanks

Ok what I will do is tag the lines I need to keep first. I'll put tape at both ends of it.

As I remove lines I'll tag them as well. Just for a record of where then came from. With a picture at both ends of it. Going to be tedious but oh well I got time.

I'll report back at the end of the day.

 

Hahaha... I did not. Want me to "edit" and git rid of what can of it,,,? I meant to post it in the "what did you do today" thread, lol

 

Lol no u can leave it. In 20 years from now when I'm finally getting the car on the road it will be a funny memory

 

Hahaha... I can relate to that and a couple few ways! Good work!

One thing, you mentioned the expansion tank being rusty... Did you mean the reservoir? If it's the reservoir (and I hope that others will confirm this) I think there is something special about the design in coolant flow having to do with gravity and the height of the cooling system in relation to the engine and coolant flow. I don't think it can just be any ol tank used to replace it... I could be wrong about that. It's why they can get a premium for them new, even used. My expansion tank (from memory) is plastic in the LH wing... Hidden. Grant talks about them well and often.

 

The overflow is the plastic one. The expansion is the metal one on the fender. So when shopping for a replacement it needs to be mounted higher than the rad, and the correct tubing and pressure cap.

If it wasnt tight in there I have a Heineken mini keg that would be perfect for this purpose lol.

Maybe I'm wrong and I'm sure the smart people will correct me/us lol

 

Great work, what is the plan with the cooling fans? Keep them standard or go all electric?
When I had my shroud out I had it acid dipped, gold plated for rust protection and then powder coated... came out great.
I added a new electric fan and kept the viscus fan. Works great.

You can get a stainless steel tank made, I have a secondhand one sitting in my shed that i will use one day.

 

Clutch fan removed.




If im replacing with electric fans do I need to remove the housing attached to the engine as well?

 

What I've removed so far today



So the air pump there wthere things attaches. That one hose that went to the airbox.

Then this hose the one on the right with the white stripe


It goes into a T which is connected to that sensor (pink top) on the right of it and also up the that area with the other hoses (trans vacuum) on the back of the RHS manifold.

What should I do with it?

And then this hard pipe that goes somewhere underneath.


Do I cap it? Or leave it open. I think it draws the warm exhaust as part of that 45 second timer thing.

Anyways I'll leave it and get to something else after lunch.

 

all electric. I will be putting in a bigger alternator too.

 

The steel or aluminum pipe that goes into the depths is pretty tough to remove. I think most folks just leave it. It pops back up at the back back of the engine behind the TB... I left that too. Then, removed all associated stuff with the blower on top of the engine, filling in holes in intake with blanks. Torq bolts that fit well with a pinch of RTV to stop leaks. Worked well.

 

long post pic heavy. comments of pic below it but first pic is what i removed today





#1 Do I cap this? one on each manifold that was connected to a cross pipe, which was connected to a T, which was connected to the cannister

#2 The hose going up with the white strip goes to underneath the Dizzy. Would I connect this to the spigot that is empty under the RHS throttle body? everything else from that T is removed because down the line it connected to the air pump

#3 So there is this line that runs back along the car following the fuel line (to the right). To the left past the short piece of rubber that steel line goes to the cannister. I have a better pic of it at the cannister end. Is this the line for venting the fuel tank?

#4 Here is the other pic. you can see it running along the inner fender wall then curves up to the rubber piece that connects to the black valve

#5 what is this for? RHS near the firewall on top of the manifold it has a airline going through the firewall. Not removed.

#6. what is this for? it also goes through the firewall. Not removed.

#6 is where wrench is. # 5 is a few inches below it.

#7 This is the LHS throttle body. I would cap these as well I think but just want to make sure. Hoses when to the cannister

#8 this is front of the LHS manifold. Cap this? was a small hose that came off a T that was going to the cannister

#9 What is this thing. it was attached to one of the nuts of the RHS thermostat housing. it had one hose attached to the air pump and then the other hose (1/2"?) went to behind the throttle body on the RHS. it also has to wires coming from it that go into another group of wires on the RHS fender. when I went to move the wires i could heat them cracking. I left the wires intact but if i dont need this device i will cut the wires and cap them off

#10 so see where I am pointing at with the wrench. This goes from there to the back of the airbox on the LHS. I plan on not reinstalling the factory air horns. I am going to put in a cold air intake system. Would I Just take the house off and plug it or leave it?

#11. and finally back to this pink topped thing. so when I went to start moving the hoses from it (which all lead in someway back to the air pump) with little force the first spigot on it (plastic) snapped right off in the hose. so needless to say so did the other 3. so since those hoses are now gone am i safe to cap it? should I remove it then plug the hole with something?


Thanks for taking the time. you can answer by using just the number of the pic to make it easier.

 

Also I messed up and hoping there's a solution

so after everything I did I realized that I forgot to depressurize the fuel system.

so the ROM starts to remove a connection (i think terminal 85) from the fuel pump relay and attempt to start the car.

the supplement in my ROM that covers 82 (maybe) to 88 1/2 says to remove the fuel pump relay all together and attempt to start the car

First question is which method is best?

Second question. I know a engine can run a few 2nds with no coolant but does the car actually have to start or just turning it over for a few seconds enough to depressurize the system. If not is there another way? like slowly remove a hose somewhere that i can put a container to catch whatever comes out into?

PS I always have a fire extinguisher handy in case you are worried.

Anyways its ST Patties Day so Im gonna have a drink

 

Turning it over will depressurize the system but if the car hasn't run for a while I wouldn't worry much. Take a good size rag and maybe a Mayo jar to catch fuel and undo the capture type nutt on the RH inlet into the fuel rail...

I'll have a go at some of these.
#1 I would leave the skinny balance pipe. Mine has it and it adds to air (or maybe it completely drives) the negative pressure in the crank case/engine which helps LOTS to prevent oil leaks and excess pressure in the engine. You'll find that it connects into the PVC set up AND will help minimize the amount of oil ladened air that will make it into the LH breather/filter.

#2 on my first days I removed everything associated with the blower system with no ill effects. That included vac tubing and everything that is in top of the engine in the V.

#3 I would hold off on that...

#4 I recently removed my entire canister and tossed it. That included all vac tubing that I could sensibly remove or cap without causing vac leaks.

#5 YOU WANT IT it's a switch that, from what I understand, monitors the level of vac in the intakes and, when switched ON sends a signal to the ECU to keep fueling steady at idle, and in the moment you hit the gas, it switches off to tell the ECU (efi ECU) to momentarily increase the amount of fuel to reduce hesitation at take off.

#6 too close up to get a reference on what that is.

#7 I know but can't remember. They, believe it or not, are so rightly placed that when the throttle disc is open or closed produce a vacuum change in the vac lines that went to those spigots. I believe mine are now capped - or the hoses are still on and the hose ends are capped with a small screw.

#8 you'll find a use for that vac line spigot. Can run things like cruise control and such.

#9 is an AC idle adjust switch - a supplemental air inlet for when slightly higher revs are needed when AC is on. Connects to the underside of the RH intake and is turned on and off by the AC unit or fuel temp (in the rail) switch when needed. Cools the fuel in the fuel cooler setup on the LH side attached to the LH intake/breather.

#10 LEAVE IT and REPLACE IT. It is the filtered air feed to the AAV that feeds the intakes air on cold start AND on mine,,, produces airflow in the dizzy - if so has a little spout for a vac tube in top.... Don't know if yours has that same set up as mine to vent the dizzy. The 88. Mine is a 90.

#11 all thankfully GONE on my car. All air blower stuff I think. Gone!

Damn man. A little bit ago I couldn't have answered NONE of them questions.

Now,,,, don't trust ME... See what other have to say first.

 

Ok so forgot #5 and #6.

For # 9 here's a better pic. The end in my hand goes under the RHS TB. But as u can see I have nothing to put the valve? End too. And the wires oare exposed and brittle.



I have a diagram of the AAV. Here




So #4 the end that would go to the LHS airbox is just there now. I found the L In #4 that goes to the dizzy but if it's not connected to the airbox can I shorten #4 up to that L? That's my new question regarding that.

 

Ok, sorry... Phraseology... It's the AC SAV Supplementary Air Valve. Feeds the RH intake a little extra air when the AC is on. Raises idle just 1 or 2 points... If you reach under the RH intake you will feel a little spout that that hose end attaches to and,,, the strange metal gizmo is supposed to fit in a grommet that is fixed on the back side of the RH trumpet so the air going into the SAV is filtered air. Folks sometimes buy a small fuel filter and attach it to the spigot on the intake side of the SAV because the right grommet for the SAV to stay fixed in the trumpet is hard to come by,,, and it's kinda ugly hanging out there.

The first time my AC SAV actually kicked in and open DUE to a functioning (which ain't functioning anymore) AC system, I nearly pooped my pants, and it actually worked to raise the RPMs,,, til my ac system whent south again. This summer I'll git it, lol...

 

When you say shorten #4 do you mean to eliminate the fresh air intake through the AAV on cold starts? I guess you could.

I was always told to get the car running RIGHT as designed before doing all that stuff. Then make changes. I also plan on capping off the AAV (maybe - after a test) and plugging the dizzy air draw into something else to keep it ventilated.

If I were you I would hold off before hacking into the #4 AAV intake tube. Just for a while.

Considering the climate where you are - you may need that cold start set up intact...?

 

hahah maybe but this will be a summer date night car. wont see rain or snow ever again. will be stored Nov 1st to April first same as my motorcycle