Rescue's Official Build Thread - 88 XJS V12 Oct 12 2019
#1081
The hose you have repaired running from the fuel rail down to the B bank FPR does not look like the OEM one, in as far as the OEM one on my car has a much longer metal section. This is the oEM one on my car:
I only mention this as I believe the least amount of rubber hose downstream of the injectors to the FPR, the better the throttle response.
Now I may be quite wrong about that point, but I am interested to know if the OEM part you replaced was different from mine?
#1082
Rescue
The hose you have repaired running from the fuel rail down to the B bank FPR does not look like the OEM one, in as far as the OEM one on my car has a much longer metal section. This is the oEM one on my car:
I only mention this as I believe the least amount of rubber hose downstream of the injectors to the FPR, the better the throttle response.
Now I may be quite wrong about that point, but I am interested to know if the OEM part you replaced was different from mine?
The hose you have repaired running from the fuel rail down to the B bank FPR does not look like the OEM one, in as far as the OEM one on my car has a much longer metal section. This is the oEM one on my car:
I only mention this as I believe the least amount of rubber hose downstream of the injectors to the FPR, the better the throttle response.
Now I may be quite wrong about that point, but I am interested to know if the OEM part you replaced was different from mine?
I'm not sure if that's true. If it is I can swap it out for the orginal.
I'm not keeping stuff oem/original.
Last edited by Rescue119; 10-08-2021 at 03:20 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Greg in France (10-09-2021)
#1083
The following 2 users liked this post by Rescue119:
Dukejag (10-09-2021),
Greg in France (10-09-2021)
#1084
#1086
#1089
The following 4 users liked this post by Rescue119:
#1090
#1091
Sorry, what does "1/2 inch loom" and 3/4 inch loom" mean? Is that the sheathing size or something else?
Tks
Paul
#1092
this is wiring loom. Covers the wiring to protect it and organize it. Because I went with thicker silicone wiring to replace the factory wiring 1/2 loom wasn't big enough. Almost 3/4 should do the job
The following 2 users liked this post by Rescue119:
Greg in France (10-24-2021),
ptjs1 (10-24-2021)
#1093
#1094
Hey Greg did you see my question in post #1086. About the idler arm removal?
#1095
Rescue
If that idler (the one with the studs) is the fan bearing casting for the old mechanical fan, and if the belt that drove them is not being used for anything else, then the lot can be removed. You will find that when removed, the fan boss casting is on top of part of the water pump housing; and that the studs that held both are not threaded enough to tighten the water-pump-only thickness. I just used thick spacers on the studs, but you could tap it further down and use less thick spacers. Some people remove the stud and replaced it with a bolt - but I did not want to for fear of breaking the stud. Pic attached of what I did, which I blush to publish - at the time I had to improvise and until now I forgot all about them - but the spacers have worked for 20 years!
If that idler (the one with the studs) is the fan bearing casting for the old mechanical fan, and if the belt that drove them is not being used for anything else, then the lot can be removed. You will find that when removed, the fan boss casting is on top of part of the water pump housing; and that the studs that held both are not threaded enough to tighten the water-pump-only thickness. I just used thick spacers on the studs, but you could tap it further down and use less thick spacers. Some people remove the stud and replaced it with a bolt - but I did not want to for fear of breaking the stud. Pic attached of what I did, which I blush to publish - at the time I had to improvise and until now I forgot all about them - but the spacers have worked for 20 years!
Last edited by Greg in France; 10-25-2021 at 02:23 AM.
#1096
Rescue
If that idler (the one with the studs) is the fan bearing casting for the old mechanical fan, and if the belt that drove them is not being used for anything else, then the lot can be removed. You will find that when removed, the fan boss casting is on top of part of the water pump housing; and that the studs that held both are not threaded enough to tighten the water-pump-only thickness. I just used thick spacers on the studs, but you could tap it further down and use less thick spacers. Some people remove the stud and replaced it with a bolt - but I did not want to for fear of breaking the stud. Pic attached of what I did, which I blush to publish - at the time I had to improvise and until now I forgot all about them - but the spacers have worked for 20 years!
If that idler (the one with the studs) is the fan bearing casting for the old mechanical fan, and if the belt that drove them is not being used for anything else, then the lot can be removed. You will find that when removed, the fan boss casting is on top of part of the water pump housing; and that the studs that held both are not threaded enough to tighten the water-pump-only thickness. I just used thick spacers on the studs, but you could tap it further down and use less thick spacers. Some people remove the stud and replaced it with a bolt - but I did not want to for fear of breaking the stud. Pic attached of what I did, which I blush to publish - at the time I had to improvise and until now I forgot all about them - but the spacers have worked for 20 years!
Awesome thanks this helps a lot.
#1097
#1098
Got the new loom today. Much better due to the 16g wire compared to the shitty 18g brittle stuff. Still playing with routing but at least I don't have 24 wires everywhere.
2nd photo shows the cross pipe for the coolant system. It's pretty rough on the outside. I'll have to clean it up and inspect the inside. I did find a post about making a replacement out of copper piping with an improvement. Might try that because why not lol
Going to pick up my new 2dr Jeep ****** edition tomorrow. Suppose to rain but I'll try to get some pics
2nd photo shows the cross pipe for the coolant system. It's pretty rough on the outside. I'll have to clean it up and inspect the inside. I did find a post about making a replacement out of copper piping with an improvement. Might try that because why not lol
Going to pick up my new 2dr Jeep ****** edition tomorrow. Suppose to rain but I'll try to get some pics
The following users liked this post:
Dukejag (10-25-2021)
#1099
Missed this post somehow.
For the harness I basically followed each wire from the original harness. Also labeled lots with painters tape. I dont remove the labels until I put it an item back in place. I also printed out expanded parts diagrams from sng barret to keep track.
Double and triple check. Still gonna be nervous when I eventually turn the key since I've done so much. This image is super helpful.
as for the alt it was completely rebuilt. Basically brand new bearing etc. cost was 180cdn with is about half the cost of a new one at 115amps.
My time is mostly spent cleaning and refurbing. Replacing the parts is the easiest part of the whole thing lol
Last edited by Rescue119; 10-26-2021 at 06:28 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Dukejag (10-26-2021)