I think that you are referring to my cooling upgrade?
The radiator 90 degree hose tail I got by searching for such things. I think, repeat think, the thread is 1/4 inch BSP with 6mm hose tail. But it is the same thread as the bleed and the banjo fitting, so it is just a matter of identifying that and then getting the fitting.
In the UK there are loads of fabricators, eg:
https://www.alicool.co.uk/-bespoke.html
GRS Motorsport : Quality Aluminium Products
https://www.obpltd.com/header-tanks
Custom Tanks, Intercoolers, Radiators and Pipework | A TM Engineering

Just tell them what you need.

 

Greg,
I think I found a readily available header tank that will work. I've done some measuring, and it appears viable.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Mini-Co...127632-2357-0I may get a used plastic version out of a junkyard for cheap to test fit before I buy the aluminum version. Will likely revise the mounting, but the basic measurements look good.
Since I have a LHD car, I'm considering teeing into the heater core inlet line since it is close, instead of the heater outlet. I can't think of an issue that would cause, can you?
I'm also wondering about the need for an atmospheric overflow tank. In the stock XJS configuration, the header tank and crossover pipe have to be filled to the brim. With the new location of the header tank, it would appear it can have an air volume above the liquid to allow for expansion. That is the way most modern cars with pressurized remote header tanks work.
I'd like to get your thoughts on what I'm thinking.
Jon

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That tank looks fine to me. While T-ing into the heater inlet for cold filling purposes would be not a problem, that inlet comes straight off the A bank head at the hottest point in the system, so I feel the tank would be in a very hot-coolant position and for reasons I cannot really fathom, it seems not a good plan to me. I think that in your place I would run a solid metal tube across the firewall to the heater return. With a bit of bending, the return end of it could go straight into the joining T, and the header tank end would only need a short joiner.
However if you want to dispense with the atmospheric overflow, I feel you would need a far larger header than 1.2 litres. I actually started with an atmospheric tank of a just under a litre and found it not big enought to take the overflow, so the system, on cooling, did not have enough left in the atmospheric overflow to refill the header completely. So I think a header on its own of this size might risk running dry. Also I think you need to incorporate the low coolant sensor into the header, and without an atmo tank this will risk giving worrying warning lights!
I take it you are going to run the bleed line from the banjo threaded part of the rad up to the header, and do all the other bits of removing pipes that I did?
Good luck with the project and do not hesitiate to ask if there is anything you want to discuss or ask.

 

Thanks for your thoughts.
Yes, I will come off of the radiator where the stock banjo fitting is located, and dispense with the other plumbing as you did. I will have to find, or have fabricated, the crossover pipe. I guess I could take mine and cut off the fill pipe and have the hole blanked over.
​​​​​​Do you fill your new header tank completely, or leave an air space at the top? How much does your header tank hold?
I would likely locate the washer fluid bottle where the stock header tank is located. I've seen some plenty slim washer bottle/pump combinations.
I'm not sure where I would locate an atmospheric overflow tank. I relocated the cruise control actuator to the area behind the cover in back of the right front wheel (like where the stock overflow tank is located on the left side). That really cleaned up the vee area in conjunction with a Sanden a/c compressor. I really don't feel like relocating the actuator again to the other side of the car to where the current overflow tank is located! I guess I could use the existing overflow tank; the hose to it wouldn't be a whole lot longer than the current hose from the stock header tank.
I understand what you are saying about the temperature at the heater inlet side. However that would be at the new highest location in the system, barring the new header tank. It may help the system bleed better. I may try it there, and if I have issues, run a pipe to the other side.
Thanks again for your thoughts.
EDIT: just found and bought a NOS crossover pipe without the filler port on Ebay. Sometimes I get lucky.

 

Well spring is here. I still am busy at work, thanks putin, and doesn't look to be slowing down anytime soon. Plus I may be posted this summer which puts a crunch time to get my xjs running so I can at least load it on a trailer. Still unknown about posting.

I haven't done anything but the weather is finally getting better to have the garage door open an modivate me.

I did do one thing for Valentines Day

Suprised the wife with a drive in movie date night. I cleaned up the interior, made popcorn, poured some drinks and we had fun. Had to remind her it will all be worth it in the end. Pics so setup not movie we watched lol. Last pic is view from inside

 

So life update. Got my posting message 3 weeks ago.

Since then I've sold my current home and bought a new build at my new posting. Well not new to me as i was there 5.5 years prior (Moose Jaw, SK).

New house is a new build and has a 3 car garage with high ceilings so I can install a lift.

But it's that time of year when I'm super busy and hopefully i can get the rest of the engine stuff back together before its loaded on a truck to be shipped to my new home.

Need to

relocate the alt to where the airpump was

Finish wiring the EFI (just wires to main factory 8 pin plug)

reinstall rad, electric fans, and all related cooling hoses /parts

Get someplace local to redo the fuel lines in the truck area and clean out that tank under the battery

And hopefully get it starts up.

 

Hi all.

Home finally and back into the jag.

Got the water temp sensor housing (front piece) back on with new gasket and also the cross feed pipe and new hoses back on.




Now trying to figure out relocating the alt to the air pump spot.

I should be able to use the mount that the air pump was attached it to the engine block.

I had previous ordered the belts long ago.

My question regarding the belt. The alt pulley is ribbed as is where the belt would go on the crank shaft.

but the belt i ordered, if i was using the stock location, looks like this.




is it suppose to be wider? Or am i not thinking right in the head lol.

 

The ribbed needs to be replaced, depends on the alternator spindle diameter, I managed to get a larger Lucas fitting (I also have a 120A alternator) but I'm not so happy about how they fit - 100% friction no key no nothing but it does fit and everything lines up .... very much a suck it and see with this one but there are few alternatives. Lucas A127

 

Thats what i thought but this came with the 120amp alt and it had a regular v belt on it when I got it?

 

I believe there 'may' be a way to convert the V12 to a ribbed system but I've chosen not to pursue that avenue as I couldn't really find concrete information on the parts needed and my parts books do not extend to the later cars. Even if they did knowing my luck somenthing else would be different too, then something else and so on - I'm tired of piling stuff on the shelf that I've bought just on the off chance it will fit where I need it to.

 

After looking online. Due to my jag being a 1988.5 (kinda has some new (facelift) stuff and old (pre face-lift stuff) I looked and it has the same belts as the 1989 to 92 models. Lol

So on Monday I'm going to take the alt back to the place I got it refused and ask him if he can put a v pull on it. I might since it's the weekend try and get the pulley off the air pump and see if I can fit it to the alt. It's got 3 x 10mm bolts holding it on though instead of the one big bolt. But I'll direct it and see.

 

A V belt will be fine on the 120 amp alt. I have had one for years and no problems.

 

using the ribbed pully?

 

No, using the V pulley that came off the old 75 amp one!

 

That's the issue. I don't have an old one lol. The 120 is factory on mine.

 

Thomas
You have achieved wonders with that car. I cannot see sourcing a V pulley as something that you cannot do! Most alternator repair places have them, at least over in the UK.

 

Ya im off for 2 more days so I'm going go to the shop tomorrow.

Just finished adding a roof rack and mud flaps to my wifes suv.

 

So update on the alt. Went to alt shop. New pully 10 bucks. Come home. Everything looks good... except this




So.i go back to the shop to see if they have any suggestions. As im there i remember reading about putting in a cs-130 120a alt. So i ask if they have one. They went and the back and found one covered in dust but good to go. They say take it and see if it works.

Back home i go.

It fits. It's a little off [adjustment rod] but I can work on that once I get moved. As right now goal is to get started and be able to load on and off a trailer.



so the factory belt for this location (air pump) is 60.5 inchs long and is too big. So I go to parts store and get a 58 3/8s length one. It fits.

All I got to do it wire it up and that part is done.

So I went to put on the water pump/ steering pump belt on. Part number 17425 i found around here. It does not fit. I Google the size and it says it's 42.5inch long. I tried everything and I just can't get it. It's close . Like within an inch. So I'm gonna order a 43.5 inch one or close to that.

Progress!.

Next is finishing wiring up the fuel injector loom to the main connector.

 

Nvm got it. Had to crank the adjustment nutz all the way in. Took forever

From 4 to 2 belts.

 

Rescue
FYI alternators have what is caled a "clock face", the first one you had was for a fitment with the face for mounting on the other side (assuming bottom fulcrum and top adjuster).