Rescue's Official Build Thread - 88 XJS V12 Oct 12 2019
#1281
So I replied to the other thread. Tps gave me wierd readings.
Yellow wire was .02 no matter what I did. Red was the only one I could adjust. After adjusting I can hear the injectors click. Still no start. Gonna spend tomorrow going through as much as the list as I can. I think the tps should be replaced. Gonna play again tomorrow with it one more time just in case.
Yellow wire was .02 no matter what I did. Red was the only one I could adjust. After adjusting I can hear the injectors click. Still no start. Gonna spend tomorrow going through as much as the list as I can. I think the tps should be replaced. Gonna play again tomorrow with it one more time just in case.
#1282
ready to come off the ramps. Just need someone to help push as i dint want to start it in the garage in case i ****ed up big time.
Good news i hooked up the battery and didn't see any leaks or anything.
the radio antenna now goes up and down like intended so that's a win.
So while I'm waiting for help I do have a wiring concern.
So when I turn this switch on
The aux fan comes on. that 12" fan is loud and strong fyi. Go spal!
thoughts as I was trying to have it only come on when the compressor comes on. Or by activating that switch should the compressor be tripped?
Good news i hooked up the battery and didn't see any leaks or anything.
the radio antenna now goes up and down like intended so that's a win.
So while I'm waiting for help I do have a wiring concern.
So when I turn this switch on
The aux fan comes on. that 12" fan is loud and strong fyi. Go spal!
thoughts as I was trying to have it only come on when the compressor comes on. Or by activating that switch should the compressor be tripped?
But, do you have DII or DIII? It is sometime possible for the DII to take a minute or two to get itself organised before acting properly! So if you do have 12v at the compressor, switch on, it might just be that. Get the car running first.
#1283
So I replied to the other thread. Tps gave me wierd readings.
Yellow wire was .02 no matter what I did. Red was the only one I could adjust. After adjusting I can hear the injectors click. Still no start. Gonna spend tomorrow going through as much as the list as I can. I think the tps should be replaced. Gonna play again tomorrow with it one more time just in case.
Yellow wire was .02 no matter what I did. Red was the only one I could adjust. After adjusting I can hear the injectors click. Still no start. Gonna spend tomorrow going through as much as the list as I can. I think the tps should be replaced. Gonna play again tomorrow with it one more time just in case.
#1284
It should not come on with the switch. If you test the compressor 12v feed, switch on, the compressor feed shold not have 12v. Let us know what you find.
But, do you have DII or DIII? It is sometime possible for the DII to take a minute or two to get itself organised before acting properly! So if you do have 12v at the compressor, switch on, it might just be that. Get the car running first.
But, do you have DII or DIII? It is sometime possible for the DII to take a minute or two to get itself organised before acting properly! So if you do have 12v at the compressor, switch on, it might just be that. Get the car running first.
#1285
Whats the difference between the red / yellow / green wires?
#1286
#1287
- The loom yellow/pink is connected to the TPS red wire. This loom wire carries the constant 5v from the ECU
- The loom yellow/white is connected to the TPS green wire. This loom wire carries the signal back to the ECU to tell it the throttle position. It should be set to 0.32v throttles closed from the ECU
- The loom yellow/black is connected to the TPS yellow wire. This loom wire is an earth.
Last edited by Greg in France; 06-29-2022 at 06:42 AM.
#1288
The conections should be made as follows, assuming you have the modern red coloured TPS. You may have to peel back the loom covering to be able to identify the loom wire colours as thr stripes fade badly:
- The loom yellow/pink is connected to the TPS red wire. This loom wire carries the constant 5v from the ECU
- The loom yellow/white is connected to the TPS green wire. This loom wire carries the signal back to the ECU to tell it the throttle position. It should be set to 0.32v throttles closed from the ECU
- The loom yellow/black is connected to the TPS black wire. This loom wire is an earth.
#1289
Are the TPS colours the same? If so the connections will be the same.
EDIT:
I have just checked my spare engine's black TPS. The loom plug is identical, as are the colours, and are in identical positions, so the connections will be the same too. The TPS yellow wire is the one that goes to the yellow/black loom wire by the way, corrected in my post above.
EDIT:
I have just checked my spare engine's black TPS. The loom plug is identical, as are the colours, and are in identical positions, so the connections will be the same too. The TPS yellow wire is the one that goes to the yellow/black loom wire by the way, corrected in my post above.
Last edited by Greg in France; 06-29-2022 at 06:45 AM.
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Rescue119 (06-29-2022)
#1290
#1291
#1292
so first in list i checked fuel to rail. passed
2nd is tps. like mentioned even if disconnected or not correct engine should still run yet badly.
red wire is the one that changes.... currently 0.7 volts (needs adjusting)
yellow wire is ground
green wire is constant ...currently at 4.4v (should be up to five but i read as long as its close its good/
so now i am thinking no spark. next on list
2nd is tps. like mentioned even if disconnected or not correct engine should still run yet badly.
red wire is the one that changes.... currently 0.7 volts (needs adjusting)
yellow wire is ground
green wire is constant ...currently at 4.4v (should be up to five but i read as long as its close its good/
so now i am thinking no spark. next on list
#1293
The following users liked this post:
Greg in France (06-29-2022)
#1294
just pulled the 6B spark plug. looked a little wet and smelled of fuel.
waiting for my wife to get home so she can crank the engine while i check for spark
im gonna check a few more things wire wise while i wait
thing is i dont have a spare spark plug
im more leaning to no spark now and trying to figure out why
waiting for my wife to get home so she can crank the engine while i check for spark
im gonna check a few more things wire wise while i wait
thing is i dont have a spare spark plug
im more leaning to no spark now and trying to figure out why
The following 2 users liked this post by Rescue119:
Greg in France (06-29-2022),
Thorsen (06-29-2022)
#1295
#1296
so my results for todays testing.
also bought a inline spark tester
ill start at the beginning of the document:
fuel system section:
pulled fuel line - turned on ing. pump squirted fuel well.
pump works fine (replaced relay last year) works as intended
fresh gas yesterday. 10L 91 Oct with oct booster added for a little extra oompf
new fuel filter replaced a few days ago.
EFI electrical issues
I suspected this is where the issues lies
fix the TPS so now when i move the capscan i hear the injectors click. once
right now tps gets 0.7v at idle and 4.4v at full throttle. will adjust later but wont affect startup
i removed spark plug 6B. is a little wet and smells of gas.
i put spark plug back and install inline tester.
turn over and there is a spark. but engine is still struggling.
i test the CTS. test results are 2.3k ohm which is good very cold engine.
i jump the CTS anyways and no start.
I test the single ignition coil. have battery voltage, crank engine, it drops about 1.0v. no more.
i test the ohms. .70 to .80.
so i didnt test everything as i am going to have to create a long jumper to check the pins at the ECU etc.
so everything i tested passed.
so then im sitting here and im like i only tested one of the connectors in the injector loom which i rebuilt. i tested the 1B one. 12v each pin. so i skipped the rest.
well now i decided to test the all. start on the B bank. all 6 have 12v to each pin.
onto A bank. I test the first one. one pin has 12v the other pin has 0.1v. I test the other 5. all of them are one pin is 12v the other is 0.1v. and 3 of them are opposite of the other pins. 1,3,5 are same and 2,4,6 are the same.
So is this my issue. I think so. would the engine not start on only one bank lol?
I must have wired 2 parts of each section wrong. ?
thoughts while i pull out the A bank loom.
also bought a inline spark tester
ill start at the beginning of the document:
fuel system section:
pulled fuel line - turned on ing. pump squirted fuel well.
pump works fine (replaced relay last year) works as intended
fresh gas yesterday. 10L 91 Oct with oct booster added for a little extra oompf
new fuel filter replaced a few days ago.
EFI electrical issues
I suspected this is where the issues lies
fix the TPS so now when i move the capscan i hear the injectors click. once
right now tps gets 0.7v at idle and 4.4v at full throttle. will adjust later but wont affect startup
i removed spark plug 6B. is a little wet and smells of gas.
i put spark plug back and install inline tester.
turn over and there is a spark. but engine is still struggling.
i test the CTS. test results are 2.3k ohm which is good very cold engine.
i jump the CTS anyways and no start.
I test the single ignition coil. have battery voltage, crank engine, it drops about 1.0v. no more.
i test the ohms. .70 to .80.
so i didnt test everything as i am going to have to create a long jumper to check the pins at the ECU etc.
so everything i tested passed.
so then im sitting here and im like i only tested one of the connectors in the injector loom which i rebuilt. i tested the 1B one. 12v each pin. so i skipped the rest.
well now i decided to test the all. start on the B bank. all 6 have 12v to each pin.
onto A bank. I test the first one. one pin has 12v the other pin has 0.1v. I test the other 5. all of them are one pin is 12v the other is 0.1v. and 3 of them are opposite of the other pins. 1,3,5 are same and 2,4,6 are the same.
So is this my issue. I think so. would the engine not start on only one bank lol?
I must have wired 2 parts of each section wrong. ?
thoughts while i pull out the A bank loom.
#1297
Should it run on 6 - well if the stars align - mine would, but I don't recommend. I'd expect to see 12V both sides of the injector unless you don't have them connected same as bank B - the only time the injectors are grounded is when the ECU grounds them, the harnesses that you think are no good disconnect the injectors and check the side that is 0.1 to ground - you should not have any continuity to ground. If you identify a permanent ground do not connect the injectors they will burn out if energised too long.
Either way you do have a defect on bank A - I don't think it is polarity related since injectors are only coils and not polarised as long as each '3' are consistent I don't think it matters a whole lot.
Check the injectors for continuity - coil resistance 3 ohms or so.
Either way you do have a defect on bank A - I don't think it is polarity related since injectors are only coils and not polarised as long as each '3' are consistent I don't think it matters a whole lot.
Check the injectors for continuity - coil resistance 3 ohms or so.
#1298
Should it run on 6 - well if the stars align - mine would, but I don't recommend. I'd expect to see 12V both sides of the injector unless you don't have them connected same as bank B - the only time the injectors are grounded is when the ECU grounds them, the harnesses that you think are no good disconnect the injectors and check the side that is 0.1 to ground - you should not have any continuity to ground. If you identify a permanent ground do not connect the injectors they will burn out if energised too long.
Either way you do have a defect on bank A - I don't think it is polarity related since injectors are only coils and not polarised as long as each '3' are consistent I don't think it matters a whole lot.
Check the injectors for continuity - coil resistance 3 ohms or so.
Either way you do have a defect on bank A - I don't think it is polarity related since injectors are only coils and not polarised as long as each '3' are consistent I don't think it matters a whole lot.
Check the injectors for continuity - coil resistance 3 ohms or so.
#1299
So I took the loom for a bank off and went over it wire by wire. I did find one error but after the adjustment I still get the same results on all connectors in that loom. 12v one pin .1v other pin. Here is a picture of my wiring.
remember B bank is 12v both pins. I'm stumped and calling it a night
remember B bank is 12v both pins. I'm stumped and calling it a night
#1300
Just be methodical and don't assume when playing with electrics, how often 'I know that is OK' has bitten me.
Resistance says the injectors are OK. Bank B is exactly how it should be.
Step 1 disconnect bank A injectors at the inner fender, then turn on the ignition, then connect the injectors at the inner fender and listen - if you hear a click there is a path to ground, you see 0.1 because you're measuring that ground potential. I'd wager that if you do have a short to ground that connecting the injectors with the ignition on will trigger a click as you connect, that's why the plugs are wet, you're probably constantly fueling on bank A.
From there it is just a process of elimination. With the injectors disconnected engine side, with fender connector connected and ignition off bell test to ground the side that is low @ 0.1, bell test not volts - there should be no path to ground. Now turn on the ignition and repeat - there should still be no path to ground. You can also test the plug by the inner wing (or fender) to ground (pins 7 and 6) - if they ring to ground disconnect the resistor pack and check again, if you still have a ground disconnect the ECU and check again - if you still have a ground there's a short between the front and the back - if you don't reconnect the ECU and see if the ground comes back, if it does the problems in the ECU.
For the sake of awareness it is super important to ensure that the resistor pack is not only fully functional but that connections to and from it are good - the engine will run without it - but not for long as it eventually fries the output transistors in the ECU.
Resistance says the injectors are OK. Bank B is exactly how it should be.
Step 1 disconnect bank A injectors at the inner fender, then turn on the ignition, then connect the injectors at the inner fender and listen - if you hear a click there is a path to ground, you see 0.1 because you're measuring that ground potential. I'd wager that if you do have a short to ground that connecting the injectors with the ignition on will trigger a click as you connect, that's why the plugs are wet, you're probably constantly fueling on bank A.
From there it is just a process of elimination. With the injectors disconnected engine side, with fender connector connected and ignition off bell test to ground the side that is low @ 0.1, bell test not volts - there should be no path to ground. Now turn on the ignition and repeat - there should still be no path to ground. You can also test the plug by the inner wing (or fender) to ground (pins 7 and 6) - if they ring to ground disconnect the resistor pack and check again, if you still have a ground disconnect the ECU and check again - if you still have a ground there's a short between the front and the back - if you don't reconnect the ECU and see if the ground comes back, if it does the problems in the ECU.
For the sake of awareness it is super important to ensure that the resistor pack is not only fully functional but that connections to and from it are good - the engine will run without it - but not for long as it eventually fries the output transistors in the ECU.
Last edited by BenKenobi; 06-29-2022 at 06:27 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Greg in France (06-30-2022)