Rescue's Official Build Thread - 88 XJS V12 Oct 12 2019
#161
Well I've spent most of yesterday trying to get the bolt that holds the clamp for the transmission cable that's underneath in that tight spot. It just wont grab. So I figure I'll get at it better when I work on the transmission at a later date. So for now everything else is hooked up so I'm gonna get the car moved around this afternoon. I just got to be careful to make sure I turn it off as it does shift a bit but I got to manually use the lever on the tranny to switch it. So I'll start it gear (I have to push those 2 contacts forward that prevents it from starting in gear I think) and just keep it in first gear. Luckily I can just go down the street a little bit to pull a u turn instead of having to turn it off, then select reverse etc.
I'll try and degrease the engine as best I can today. Once I get it back into the garage I'll put it up on jack stands x 4
I'm gonna work on the engine (may ho as far as removing the heads) then tranny, then front end, then back end. I'm hoping I get that all done by April depending on time and funds.
I'll try and degrease the engine as best I can today. Once I get it back into the garage I'll put it up on jack stands x 4
I'm gonna work on the engine (may ho as far as removing the heads) then tranny, then front end, then back end. I'm hoping I get that all done by April depending on time and funds.
#162
#163
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#164
Time for some PB blaster....well tomorrow. I'm done for the day.
#165
Hi Rescue
I had the same problem getting one of the Wheels off and had to use a FBH, though a better idea could be to loosen the Wheel Studs and then turn the Steering Wheel from side to side
As for the Stuck Caliper, you could take the disk pads out which I also had to do with a FBH and Chisel but nowadays when I fit New Pads, I always Skim a few thou off the side of the Metal Backing Pad, so they slide in and out dead easy just using your fingers
Skimming the Metal Edges of the Disc Brake Pads for a Perfect Fit and Removing a Stuck Caliper with my Impact Wrench
I had the same problem getting one of the Wheels off and had to use a FBH, though a better idea could be to loosen the Wheel Studs and then turn the Steering Wheel from side to side
As for the Stuck Caliper, you could take the disk pads out which I also had to do with a FBH and Chisel but nowadays when I fit New Pads, I always Skim a few thou off the side of the Metal Backing Pad, so they slide in and out dead easy just using your fingers
Skimming the Metal Edges of the Disc Brake Pads for a Perfect Fit and Removing a Stuck Caliper with my Impact Wrench
#166
Hi Rescue
I had the same problem getting one of the Wheels off and had to use a FBH, though a better idea could be to loosen the Wheel Studs and then turn the Steering Wheel from side to side
As for the Stuck Caliper, you could take the disk pads out which I also had to do with a FBH and Chisel but nowadays when I fit New Pads, I always Skim a few thou off the side of the Metal Backing Pad, so they slide in and out dead easy just using your fingers
Skimming the Metal Edges of the Disc Brake Pads for a Perfect Fit and Removing a Stuck Caliper with my Impact Wrench
I had the same problem getting one of the Wheels off and had to use a FBH, though a better idea could be to loosen the Wheel Studs and then turn the Steering Wheel from side to side
As for the Stuck Caliper, you could take the disk pads out which I also had to do with a FBH and Chisel but nowadays when I fit New Pads, I always Skim a few thou off the side of the Metal Backing Pad, so they slide in and out dead easy just using your fingers
Skimming the Metal Edges of the Disc Brake Pads for a Perfect Fit and Removing a Stuck Caliper with my Impact Wrench
I also dont know if the parking brake is applied or not?
Do you think theres a way I can just release the parking brake if they are stuck on? Or how can I tell?
#167
So I just went out after reading how to release the parking brake properly. Push button in, hold it in while lifting lever all the way up, and continue to hold it in while bringing it back down. When I did this I heard some noise from the rear end. I tried moving the one wheel I have jacked up and it seems to move a bit more freely but still it's a 2 handed job and you can hear the grinding of the rotors. I'll try the left side tomorrow. Maybe they released! You would think that the engine in first gear would have enough torque to move the car regardless.
Oh and the button doesn't come out. It stays flush with the end but I can push it down into the handle about 1/2 inch.
Oh and the button doesn't come out. It stays flush with the end but I can push it down into the handle about 1/2 inch.
#168
#169
I'll update in a bit to see my outcome.
#170
Still barely any movement. Even when in gear and at 3000 rpm. I got it to move a couple of feet but then stopped. Ended up pushing it back into the garage with a 2010 ford edge lol. So I guess now I'm going to put the car up on jack stands (front and rear) and start work on the front end.
My idea is that if I get the front end brakes rebuilt and working I can then remove the rear brake pads and still have enough braking on the front to get the vehicle moved around so i can work on the IRS afterwards.
So now my plan is front end, engine, tranny, interior, exterior.
I got 6 tonne jack stands that go from 12.5 to 18.5 inches. Should give me plenty of room. Need to drop the exhaust to. Plan is to exit in front of rear wheels so dont need the back part of it.
My idea is that if I get the front end brakes rebuilt and working I can then remove the rear brake pads and still have enough braking on the front to get the vehicle moved around so i can work on the IRS afterwards.
So now my plan is front end, engine, tranny, interior, exterior.
I got 6 tonne jack stands that go from 12.5 to 18.5 inches. Should give me plenty of room. Need to drop the exhaust to. Plan is to exit in front of rear wheels so dont need the back part of it.
#171
Hi Rescue
If you have the Engine Running with the Rear Brake Pads removed, then as soon as you touch the Brakes the Brake Pump will cut in and if left running continuously for over the recommended 30 Seconds, you could burn it out and they are NLA
Even a S/H one could cost you £100
So might be best to do the rear end first, unless you have a very cunning plan?
If you have the Engine Running with the Rear Brake Pads removed, then as soon as you touch the Brakes the Brake Pump will cut in and if left running continuously for over the recommended 30 Seconds, you could burn it out and they are NLA
Even a S/H one could cost you £100
So might be best to do the rear end first, unless you have a very cunning plan?
#172
Hello Rescue
This has been the biggest thing for me in getting my car back together is the "what do I attack next" syndrome. If i do a) - then that will affect b). I can't do c) until a) and b) is completed. Whoops - don't have that part and it has to come from country D, what do I do in the meantime?
Sometimes I don't think I am getting anywhere - then i go back through the photo's and I am actually making good progress, which keeps the motivation up. I take photo's of everything - then write up what I have done on a day by day account, something I really recommend.
Regarding the back brakes - agree with OB, but I believe if you disconnect the brake lines to the rear cage and bung them. The system should stay pressurized - giving you front brakes, but no backs.
Once you remove the front wheels - have a good look on top of the K frame for rust - by design - the scuttle area (where the wiper motor sits in front of the windscreen) drains directly over the front suspension, there is a few forum posts where this spot on the K frame rusts as a result of these drains.
Cheers
Steve
This has been the biggest thing for me in getting my car back together is the "what do I attack next" syndrome. If i do a) - then that will affect b). I can't do c) until a) and b) is completed. Whoops - don't have that part and it has to come from country D, what do I do in the meantime?
Sometimes I don't think I am getting anywhere - then i go back through the photo's and I am actually making good progress, which keeps the motivation up. I take photo's of everything - then write up what I have done on a day by day account, something I really recommend.
Regarding the back brakes - agree with OB, but I believe if you disconnect the brake lines to the rear cage and bung them. The system should stay pressurized - giving you front brakes, but no backs.
Once you remove the front wheels - have a good look on top of the K frame for rust - by design - the scuttle area (where the wiper motor sits in front of the windscreen) drains directly over the front suspension, there is a few forum posts where this spot on the K frame rusts as a result of these drains.
Cheers
Steve
#173
Hi Rescue
If you have the Engine Running with the Rear Brake Pads removed, then as soon as you touch the Brakes the Brake Pump will cut in and if left running continuously for over the recommended 30 Seconds, you could burn it out and they are NLA
Even a S/H one could cost you £100
So might be best to do the rear end first, unless you have a very cunning plan?
If you have the Engine Running with the Rear Brake Pads removed, then as soon as you touch the Brakes the Brake Pump will cut in and if left running continuously for over the recommended 30 Seconds, you could burn it out and they are NLA
Even a S/H one could cost you £100
So might be best to do the rear end first, unless you have a very cunning plan?
Trying to figure a way to free up the brakes without actually tearing apart the brakes. Front not hard it the rear inboards.
Maybe if I can get a long screw driver between the pads and rotor and push the pistons back a bit.
It did roll freely before but when we were off loading it from the trailer my neighbour got scared and hit the brakes.
Do you think I can deactivate the emergency brakes as well? And how?
#174
Hi Rescue
That is an Epic NO/NO!
On no account do the Screwdriver thing and try and force the Brake Pads Back, unless you Clamp the Brake Pipes and leave the Bleed Nipples Open, as if you send Brake Fluid back up to the Valves in the Master Cylinder Actuator (especially Old and Contaminated Brake Fluid)
You could do untold damage to the Master Cylinder Actuator and then you would be in real trouble!
That is an Epic NO/NO!
On no account do the Screwdriver thing and try and force the Brake Pads Back, unless you Clamp the Brake Pipes and leave the Bleed Nipples Open, as if you send Brake Fluid back up to the Valves in the Master Cylinder Actuator (especially Old and Contaminated Brake Fluid)
You could do untold damage to the Master Cylinder Actuator and then you would be in real trouble!
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#176
Hello Rescue
This has been the biggest thing for me in getting my car back together is the "what do I attack next" syndrome. If i do a) - then that will affect b). I can't do c) until a) and b) is completed. Whoops - don't have that part and it has to come from country D, what do I do in the meantime?
Sometimes I don't think I am getting anywhere - then i go back through the photo's and I am actually making good progress, which keeps the motivation up. I take photo's of everything - then write up what I have done on a day by day account, something I really recommend.
Regarding the back brakes - agree with OB, but I believe if you disconnect the brake lines to the rear cage and bung them. The system should stay pressurized - giving you front brakes, but no backs.
Once you remove the front wheels - have a good look on top of the K frame for rust - by design - the scuttle area (where the wiper motor sits in front of the windscreen) drains directly over the front suspension, there is a few forum posts where this spot on the K frame rusts as a result of these drains.
Cheers
Steve
This has been the biggest thing for me in getting my car back together is the "what do I attack next" syndrome. If i do a) - then that will affect b). I can't do c) until a) and b) is completed. Whoops - don't have that part and it has to come from country D, what do I do in the meantime?
Sometimes I don't think I am getting anywhere - then i go back through the photo's and I am actually making good progress, which keeps the motivation up. I take photo's of everything - then write up what I have done on a day by day account, something I really recommend.
Regarding the back brakes - agree with OB, but I believe if you disconnect the brake lines to the rear cage and bung them. The system should stay pressurized - giving you front brakes, but no backs.
Once you remove the front wheels - have a good look on top of the K frame for rust - by design - the scuttle area (where the wiper motor sits in front of the windscreen) drains directly over the front suspension, there is a few forum posts where this spot on the K frame rusts as a result of these drains.
Cheers
Steve
#177
#178
#179
#180
I'm reading "CALIPER BRUSH", to brush off dust and dirt... They are trying to sell you something extra... Up sell...
If you pop the pistons out of the calipers be very careful on inspection. If the car sat a long time, I think you said it had, the cylinder walls and pistons themselves can be very messy and creating a seal can be tough. Money certainly WAS an object for me,,, but I out and out replaced all four calipers front and back and kept it moving. That IMHO is worth the $$$$. Rock also has a great core charge policy...
Grant has a lot of good things to say about the front end and brakes, bearings, and shims. Not as easy and straightforward as a Corolla by any means.
If you pop the pistons out of the calipers be very careful on inspection. If the car sat a long time, I think you said it had, the cylinder walls and pistons themselves can be very messy and creating a seal can be tough. Money certainly WAS an object for me,,, but I out and out replaced all four calipers front and back and kept it moving. That IMHO is worth the $$$$. Rock also has a great core charge policy...
Grant has a lot of good things to say about the front end and brakes, bearings, and shims. Not as easy and straightforward as a Corolla by any means.