What Greg said. The spacers Warren mentioned re outboard brakes seem to be present in your pics. The gap shown between output shaft flange and output bearing housing is just as it should be.
If you have movement at wheel you need to trace back from there to determine if it in hub, uni joints or output shaft bearings.
Have somebody rock while you look, or better still feel (stick a finger across mating joints) to isolate the slack point.

 

Yes, I agree with you. I don't know how it got those seats, but I'm very comfortable with it being a mere mortal Jag.

Tony

 

So what I did was jack it up on that said. I crawled under it and got a girl next door to rock the tire in/out. The movement is at the top of the tire and only moves a very few degrees or CM/MM. From under, it looks like there is a sleeve that is sliding over some other shaft (for lack of a better explanation, like foreskin). The top pic is with tire free hanging and the second is with it pushed inward.

To clarify, there isn't a noise coming from this side. I am back to the hand brake not fully releasing that's causing the slight drag on the other side. Other hand the slight rock in the tire, it is great.

Tony

 

I think your output shaft bearings have developed some end float. Should be replaced with new assembly or rebuilt with new bearings, seals and collapsible spacer, however you may get away with removing the assembly and retighten shaft nut to return to required bearing preload.
If you are hearing it l think the old bearings may be unserviceable anyway.

 

Tony
This post does not really read properly to me, I am afraid. But if you are saying that the two earlier posted photos are of the SAME driveshaft, one with the wheel pushed in and the other with it pushed out, then your diff output shaft bearings are shot for sure. Remember, it is ONLY the driveshafts that are keeping the rear wheels on. You have no alternative but to rebuild the diff, I highly doubt that with that amount of play, anything but a rebuild is worth doing. The good news is hat any diff rebuild place can do it, and kits of parts needed are readily available from (eg) Coventry West at around 250 USD from memory. As for taking it out, we can all explain how to do that yourself.
Greg

 

Thanks for the info. I'd like to do it right. Does anyone know who to go about rebuilding the diff at least on the driver's side (left)?

Tony

 

Probably just a matter of what is being called what but the diff itself ( crownwheel and pinion etc) can be left alone.
The output shaft removal and rebuild will have no bearing on diff settings.
Workshop manual will cover it but short version disconnect inner halfshaft uni, remove bolts holding output shaft bearing housing and remove.
That unit then needs to be rebuilt using new bearings, collapsible spacer, nut, seal etc and bearing preload needs to be set via spacer crush. You do need the proper instructions for that.

 

Hi all,

Looks like I need to rebuild/replace that stub axil (aka the output shaft). Where and a buy a rebuilt one OR what parts do I need to rebuild it myself.

Tony