running temps
#1
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So i put in a mechanical temp gauge in the car, i used the back right
vacuum switch, removed it and the temp gauge works great i got tired of mine on the dash all working when it wants to after trying to fix it anyways. now i can see the temp at all times, i know in gonna get ppl sayin its only really A bank but over all i think i can tell if it was overheating on the other side.
My question is what are good running temps on the freeway im noticing around 168F-180F then at a stand still it looks like it gets to around 190+F give or take a little higher if its hot outside.
vacuum switch, removed it and the temp gauge works great i got tired of mine on the dash all working when it wants to after trying to fix it anyways. now i can see the temp at all times, i know in gonna get ppl sayin its only really A bank but over all i think i can tell if it was overheating on the other side.
My question is what are good running temps on the freeway im noticing around 168F-180F then at a stand still it looks like it gets to around 190+F give or take a little higher if its hot outside.
#3
#4
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Probably not :-( It's in the shop. Failing SMOG. It's running too rich on both banks and there's no adjustment possible on that system. Current angle of attack is new fuel injectors. Unfortunately I bought a set myself from partstrain and they were rubbish. 3 didn't work at all, and 1 was stuck open. So we're looking for a better set now. :-(
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Right.
Plus....what's even more important is *flow* to *both* cylinder heads. This is where the partitioned radiator, clogs, and incorrect bleeding come into play.
I think most of the dreaded dropped valve seats are not the result of coolant temp (within reason, as you say) but lack of flow resulting in hot spots/steam pockets in the heads.
Cheers
DD
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smgdata (03-30-2013)
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