so glad to be rid of my V12
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#9
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after you unbolt it from the rest of the transmission? or did you mean the yolk will slide out of the transmission tailshaft?
It is a 2 piece shaft, with sliding splines, either at the trans end, or the diff end. Usually at the trans end.
the tailshaft is a 2 piece shaft? or did you mean the driveshaft is a 2 peice shaft? or the yolk? im confused.
The rubber gaiter is a tight mother and will need some serious coaxing to have it give up its grip on things.
inside the trans or the driveshaft?
It is a 2 piece shaft, with sliding splines, either at the trans end, or the diff end. Usually at the trans end.
The rubber gaiter is a tight mother and will need some serious coaxing to have it give up its grip on things.
#10
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Well, you learn something new every day. I have only ever seen one-piece shafts on XJ-S, two-pice on the saloons. BTW, on my XJ-S the shaft simply slides out of the box.
#11
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after you unbolt it from the rest of the transmission? or did you mean the yolk will slide out of the transmission tailshaft?
the tailshaft is a 2 piece shaft? or did you mean the driveshaft is a 2 peice shaft? or the yolk? im confused.
inside the trans or the driveshaft?
the tailshaft is a 2 piece shaft? or did you mean the driveshaft is a 2 peice shaft? or the yolk? im confused.
inside the trans or the driveshaft?
TAILSHAFT/PROPSHAFT/DRIVESHAFT, AND OTHER WORDS, ALL THE SAME NAME FOR A BIT OF TUBING CONNECTING THE TRANSMISSION TO THE DIFF PINION. There are many terminologies other than American.
The shaft is flanged both ends, YOU KNOW THAT, so common sense indicates there MUST be a sliding spline arrangement SOMEWHERE, and since it is NOT a GM car, thank God, the sliding spline is in the shaft itself, making it a 2 piece shaft. Those splines are protected by a rubber gaiter (boot/whatever the Northern hemisphere calls them).
SOOOOOOOO unless those splines are seized solid, coz no one has lubed them in 20+ years the 2 sections of shaft will simply slide apart, BUT, as I said, the gaiter is very thick "British non metallic", and can have a good hold on the sections.
I have a spare tailshaft in the shed, and just to STOP continual waste of posting energy, I went and slid it apart, FIRM, YES, but it simply slid apart.
At the risk of being "banned", stop flapping the gums, apply some very simple common sense and GET ON WITH IT.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 09-03-2012 at 04:31 AM.
#12
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Greg
#13
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Your understanding confounds me at best.
TAILSHAFT/PROPSHAFT/DRIVESHAFT, AND OTHER WORDS, ALL THE SAME NAME FOR A BIT OF TUBING CONNECTING THE TRANSMISSION TO THE DIFF PINION. There are many terminologies other than American.
At the risk of being "banned", stop flapping the gums, apply some very simple common sense and GET ON WITH IT.
TAILSHAFT/PROPSHAFT/DRIVESHAFT, AND OTHER WORDS, ALL THE SAME NAME FOR A BIT OF TUBING CONNECTING THE TRANSMISSION TO THE DIFF PINION. There are many terminologies other than American.
At the risk of being "banned", stop flapping the gums, apply some very simple common sense and GET ON WITH IT.
on a TH400 this can be removed and adapted for a 4wd or AWD transfer case.
also, in uhmericuh the driveshaft yolk will simply slide out of the tailshaft of just about any transmission especially a TH400.
and although sliding the driveshaft apart should help out somewhat, it still leaves me with several feet of driveshaft stuck to my transmission since the flange bolts are siezed up tighter than Kate beckinsales pucker.
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im a little worried that i wont be able to get it out of the car with even half the shaft still bolted to the tranny.
i tried to wiggle it out with the whole shaft on, and the trans tunnel wasnt having it.
common sense in uhmericuh means:
yolks slide out of the tailshafts and driveshafts are almost always one piece.
sorry if i seem a bit dense over some limey engineering. im still getting used to this whole IRS thing. lol
i tried to wiggle it out with the whole shaft on, and the trans tunnel wasnt having it.
common sense in uhmericuh means:
yolks slide out of the tailshafts and driveshafts are almost always one piece.
sorry if i seem a bit dense over some limey engineering. im still getting used to this whole IRS thing. lol
Last edited by M90power; 09-03-2012 at 08:07 AM.
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[QUOTE=M90power;574312]also, in uhmericuh the driveshaft yolk will simply slide out of the tailshaft of just about any transmission especially a TH400. /QUOTE]
M90
Before you ask, I do not want to buy it; but FYI, on the GM400 as used in the 1985/6 V12 XJS, the tailshaft (by which I am referring to the rotating piece of the gearbox protruding from the casing itself which ends in the flange bolted to the propshaft) is fixed to the gearbox internals by a large (3/4" from memory) central bolt that is inaccessible until the flange/propshaft bolts have been undone and the flange end thus exposed.
The propshaft/tailshaft bolts can be undone with a bit of effort, and if necessary, cut off using a 115mm diameter angle grinder, (or meuleuse, as we say in la Belle France!) turning the gearbox one bolt by bolt to gain access from below.
Greg
M90
Before you ask, I do not want to buy it; but FYI, on the GM400 as used in the 1985/6 V12 XJS, the tailshaft (by which I am referring to the rotating piece of the gearbox protruding from the casing itself which ends in the flange bolted to the propshaft) is fixed to the gearbox internals by a large (3/4" from memory) central bolt that is inaccessible until the flange/propshaft bolts have been undone and the flange end thus exposed.
The propshaft/tailshaft bolts can be undone with a bit of effort, and if necessary, cut off using a 115mm diameter angle grinder, (or meuleuse, as we say in la Belle France!) turning the gearbox one bolt by bolt to gain access from below.
Greg
#17
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Don't apologize - you have nothing to apologize for!
As Greg states above, I would focus on the seized flange bolts if possible. Try using several applications of penetrating oil (like PB Blaster, etc), waiting for a while between each application for the oil to do its work. Alternatively, you could try using a torch for some heat, though I'd be worried about cooking the pinion seal.
The angle grinder would be my last choice, however, it might be necessary. I'm pretty good with an angle grinder, and I still nick the mating surface of the flange. If you're not going to use the XJS driveshaft, then you can pretty much butcher it from that side!
As Greg states above, I would focus on the seized flange bolts if possible. Try using several applications of penetrating oil (like PB Blaster, etc), waiting for a while between each application for the oil to do its work. Alternatively, you could try using a torch for some heat, though I'd be worried about cooking the pinion seal.
The angle grinder would be my last choice, however, it might be necessary. I'm pretty good with an angle grinder, and I still nick the mating surface of the flange. If you're not going to use the XJS driveshaft, then you can pretty much butcher it from that side!
#18
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not only am i not going to use the driveshaft, im not going to use the transmission either. unless someone wants to purchase either of these items from me in my part out thread, i have no use for them.
i agree that focusing on the flang bolts would be best, but i cant get on them with anything other than an opened end wrench (spanner) and the bolts are so tight that my wrenches (spanners) keep bending apart and slipping off the bolts.
cant get on them with my trusty socket. damn. and theres not really any room to get at it with a grinder. perhaps a nut splitter? maybe.
i agree that focusing on the flang bolts would be best, but i cant get on them with anything other than an opened end wrench (spanner) and the bolts are so tight that my wrenches (spanners) keep bending apart and slipping off the bolts.
cant get on them with my trusty socket. damn. and theres not really any room to get at it with a grinder. perhaps a nut splitter? maybe.
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Not using the driveshaft? Excellent. Cut apart the two U-joint arms on the rear part of the shaft. There's only two of them. If you can't get access to them with a grinder, put the trans in neutral and rotate the rear wheels until an arm is facing directly down. If you can't turn it while the car is in the air, drop it on the ground and move it a few inches.
Notice that I suggested cutting the U-joint arms on the driveshaft-side of the U-joint. You could also cut the U-joint arms off differential side - the piece that is attached directly to the differential input flange. If you cut that off, you'll have easy access to those pinion flange bolts, which you need to address at some point anyway. Then you can get your trusty socket in there and take care of those pinion flange bolts!!
BTW, if you don't have an angle grinder, Harbor Freight has them on sale for $9.99 this weekend. The quality might be sketchy, but I bet you get at least two cuts out of it! Wear safety glasses.
Notice that I suggested cutting the U-joint arms on the driveshaft-side of the U-joint. You could also cut the U-joint arms off differential side - the piece that is attached directly to the differential input flange. If you cut that off, you'll have easy access to those pinion flange bolts, which you need to address at some point anyway. Then you can get your trusty socket in there and take care of those pinion flange bolts!!
BTW, if you don't have an angle grinder, Harbor Freight has them on sale for $9.99 this weekend. The quality might be sketchy, but I bet you get at least two cuts out of it! Wear safety glasses.
not only am i not going to use the driveshaft, im not going to use the transmission either. unless someone wants to purchase either of these items from me in my part out thread, i have no use for them.
i agree that focusing on the flang bolts would be best, but i cant get on them with anything other than an opened end wrench (spanner) and the bolts are so tight that my wrenches (spanners) keep bending apart and slipping off the bolts.
i agree that focusing on the flang bolts would be best, but i cant get on them with anything other than an opened end wrench (spanner) and the bolts are so tight that my wrenches (spanners) keep bending apart and slipping off the bolts.