these are Pre-HE only ?

 

Yes ok. a pair of cams is 1580 euro.
The followers are dlc coated and superlight. 26 euro a piece
26 x 24 = 624
Retainers are 10 euro a piece and double springs 15 euro. High quality race spring is 20 euro.
Retainers 10 x 24 = 240
double springs 15 x 24 = 360
High quality race spring is 20 x 24 = 480
I also have valves with 1mm larger head for std seats, they increase flow 15% without porting the runners, only a good seat job.
price for 1mm larger Valves ?
Cams, followers, and retainers (this is base)
1580 + 624 + 240 = 2444
I mean if I have to make clearance for the cam I might as well put in a larger valve...
price for 1mm larger Valves ?

 

typically: Norway....

 

Hi, I do not have a wery good price on the valves as I have them made on demand, and its my profile so they are not for sale elsewere. I worked out the profile by turning a dummy valve worked out by useing a flowbench. I have the flowpapers. The price of one valve is aprox 25 euro a piece for exhaust and 35 for inlet.

The cams will work for HE also, but not the valves.

Its the camcarrier who need a little grinding for clerance, se Picture.

Freight from Norway to somewere can be 50 to 100 euro I Guess, People from both UK, Germany, USA here...

Package price possible. If starting to be serious for orders please use ole.martin@mobeck.com



Grinding on the edge of the lifter bore for 13mm lift

 

Thanks... people from Down Under are a big component here, and a very nice Gentleman from Russia....
I understood the mod for lift as I built a bullet proof 1275 for my sprite that would turn 9 to 10 k (made the people in the SCCA locally very nervous.... ) I drove it on the street... below 5k it was mostly normal... but that was late 70's early 80's and into the 90's. I rebuilt it in the late 80's
I hope you get at least 3 or 4 buyers this time around. I am having to do other repairs at this time and will not be ordering this go around. if you have another run in the future I will be interested...

 

WOW, gee/wiz, it seems to build a 7L+ jag V12 , with heads from guy in AUS, cams from norway, and very much machining for assembly, we could spend,AHH?

inlet manifold system, block work, pistons, rods, crank balancing, electronics ,ECU fueling system, and a cooling system,coolant,oil cooling to cool the V12, in 100F+ temps that we get around here in summer?

$30K USD, maybe $40,000. dollars?

did someone mention Dyno tuning, at umpteen $ per hour!

i regress wont happen in my life, even if i won the lotto, i have other dreams to chase!

 

I'm a light rebuild the 6.0, but the family takes a lot of time. I'm building the engine for road use, for every day and for long trips. But also I want to do it as much as possible powerful.
It is now dismantled and measured.
I have bought some parts for this: valves, tappets, tappets block, valves guides, crankshaft bearings and other small things.
While in search of pistons and liners!

About camshafts, American and British companies made shafts for Jaguar three types: road, road racing and racing. is currently unavailable
Road racing and racing, it's forget about smooth engine, fuel economy and ecology.

What category is your shafts?
Will I pass inspection?

 

Money is nothing, I want power

 

95mm Liners from Rob Beere and Chev 305 KB143 hypereutectic pistons. You can run much tighter squish on Hyper pistons as they do not rock as much as Forged

Machine 0.040" off then top of the piston, still leaves a good thick crown.

With a 0.043" head gasket you can get 0.040" squish.

I'll start a new build thread once I have my 6.7L engine in and running.

 

with money you can make any amount of power you desire!!

but if you are after serious power? i wouldnt use the antique Jag V12.

many modern great powerful engines available.

Ford Voodoo,, GM (chevy) 572 cu" or an LS series, even Mopar Hemi , cost per HP would surpass V12.

i personally dont think 500HP can be done for the street and be smooth and quiet plus economical MPG and pass Emission inspection tests.

and if you insist on a V12, then AUDI V12 Diesel, you are much closer to Audi factory, Hungary where they are manufactured!

600 easy HP, 1000 lbs ft.,of smooth quiet, excellent MPG, and pass tests no problem!

 

you have to buy the whole shebang...
cam springs retainers followers and head mod...


regular springs would bind before giving you that lift ....
always ask the proper install height of the springs also...
they should and must be shimmed to proper install height for proper rate and spring bind avoidance.... I made my own Stainless Steel shims for my 1275...


if you want a Jaguar V12 mod'ed do it... sometimes it is about LOVE and PASSION...'


my Austin got 25 MPG!
Man the MG and Austin people thought that was DOWN RIGHT WASTEFULL....!

 

its gonna take more than a cam and valve train kit, to make a Jag V12 make 500HP!

my Crane cams, cost me $300. dollars, in 1994, regrind and Nitrided,, springs and things , around $150. USD.

as of last year ,took cam covers off ,perfect condition,lobes and followers!

and i'm not putting any of Mobeck parts down, they are of TOP quality, but do you need it?

only if you are racing for big race series, for the glory,, or the passion/brag about your cams.

 

Cams like the profile I posted earlyer belong to the category in this thread witch is called "so has anyone actually made 500bhp from a V12 pre.he"

And ofcorse it doesnt help with just cams and retainers...
Cams with data like this really need closely matched CR and exhaust manifold, and you need full Control over ECU, cooling, oil, porting and so on.

I would not sell this profile to someone who is conserned about MOT.

I also have other profiles, from mild to Wild. There will allways be a discussion what profile will fit you when ordering cams, but this exact profile belonged in this thread.

The good thing about the cams I have is that they are not regrind, so they can have std diameter at the back of the lobe if that is what you want. And then the lobe can be tall or fat or both witch is difficoult to fit in a regrinded standard lobe.

I would say you can do a lot before doing something with Your cams. Like Exhaust manifold, Air filter boxes and take a good look at that automatic transmission ans ask yourself if it do make you smile..

To get 500 hp you really need to be friends with and understand tuning (pulse tuning in the manifolds) and therefor you cannot just boy the "best parts" from all over without a plan. You have to match everything so the inletmanifold, cams, exhaust agree on the same goal and the cr have to be adapted to when the inletvalve Closes. And then you need to look at what rpm the transmission want to do the job.

So For a Jag with TH400 and std exhaustmanifold but all kind of other tricks I would still advice to use a torque cam, maybe even the std one...

Ole M

 

sober answer!
also what rear end ratio has to be asked
my 1275 --->1310 build (.060 over pistons) turned 9 to 10 k did not make power until 5k
I had to have a 4.80 rear end for it to become useful... which I had... like you stated all has to be planned together at the start...
the exhaust was modest below 4500 and absolutely screamed above 5k you could hear it for miles...


the best head would be a cam-less computer controlled valve head... but the only one place I know that does that would not be motivated to do it for a discontinued engine they did not design...

 

Good to see this thread come back to life,
Ole has some of our cams at the moment, I want to see if modern computer technology can 'optimize' the TWR race cams. This means to see if we can open the valves faster (but within physical limitations) and keep them open for longer with the same timing. A matter of increasing the area under the curve to increase flow.
Cant wait to find out this and a few other related things, its got an engine under build on hold.

 

Yep I am on it. Meanwhile I can post this info I had in my archive.

I also have larger valves witch require New seats but I have no flowdata on them yet.

But there is no doubt that these flow figures can make serious Power (up to 500) With the right tuning with headers, cams and the other stuff is willing.

 

Guys lets be realistic here, 500+hp from a Jag 6.0L V12 needs at least 7500rpm and low end will suffer, unless you have the budget of TWR, or replicate what they did.

The guy who is building my 6.7L engine has a 6.0L V12 making 500hp at 7500rpm with short runner intakes, (Cannonball Run car)(Cannonball Run in Australia was a sanctioned road race in the Northern Territory where at the time there were no open road speed limits). When converted back to road car the short runners were replaced with longer ones for better lowend torque.

If you want your car to have 300km/h top speed then 500hp is a good goal. On the other hand if you want the car to be quick off the mark and overtaking then power under 5000rpm (ie a big flat Torque curve) is where its at.

I read an article by the guy who built Ayrton Senna's Formula Ford engines. He was talking about how their engines made less outright power than the rest of the field but made way more Torque, giving Senna the jump out of corners, and we know how successful Senna was in F Ford.

 

to add , Carroll Shelby once said when racing his cobra cars,

Horsepower sells cars, but TORQUE wins races!

a quick scenario, what would you think you would do if you had two engines in the garage for a car that had no engine, which would you choose?

one is an 800HP F1 engine, that makes 250 torque!

the other makes only 300HP, but 800 torque.

the car an ordinary sedan or coupe, weighs around 3500 lbs.

give it some thought guys!

 

warron sorry to highjack.

 

Go for it Ron this thread is all about ideas, and Cal was the OP.

The guy who is building my engine built another 6.7L and it twisted the both axles on the dyno.