Hi there,

I was hoping my speing compressors would work but they don't. I need to get my rusty and shot springs out of their seats and am struggling because my compressors won't fit though that tiny hole at the bottom of the carrier...

I can't get any imperial threaded rods here, as Germany is a purely metric nation (doh!).

What kind of compressor would work best? Any recomedations

Cheers

Damien

 

If you are trying to copy the spring compressors shown in various
posts, there is nothing to stop you from converting the measurements
to metric and buying some suitable threaded rod and nuts in metric
with equivalent or greater strength.

1 inch = 25.4mm

 

I meant with imperial the often suggested version of replacing the screws in the pan with rods/threaded rods and then working them down.

 

In that case, perhaps ebay.co.uk?

 

I would purchase the rod or bolts online. The other option is to purchase a die and thread your own rod, but I would only do that if you can get high strength steel rod. The negative is it will be difficult to use a die to cut the threads. The third option is to drill out the bottom a arm and tap it to some metric size.

Of the 3 options I would highly suggest to order some threaded rod/long bolts online and pay the small premium as it would be cheapest and safest.

 

So what thread would I be looking at here? UNC or UNF? And then what thickness etc?

 

im not being funny here but if you have decent hydraulic jacks put the car up and put it on stands and put the jack under the spring seat. Undo the bolts and lower the spring. If you take it to you local jag dealer that's what they do. Putting it back is a different story though. But get 4 x 3/8 unf studding and email again

 

Engine and subframe are out of the car.

 

sorry but that's a bad move even the jag tools are dangerous. they can be wound down with long studding x4 3/8 unf but check, I have tried it always and the studs are a good way to do it, I have owned the jag tool and to be honest its dangerous, there is no safe way regardless or health and safety opinions.
if you can get the jag tool from ebay where I got mine, and sold it, then still use the studding.

 

If you secure a length of chain or aircraft cable down the center
then that will at least serve to keep the spring close to its original
position while using the stud method.

 

I've tried all methods. The "4-studs" method is the one I'm most comfortable with by far. Slow. tedious, always works, never any drama. I recall them being 3/8 UNF, though. Not 5/16


Cheers
DD

 

The studs method does seem safer.

The problem is that it is seldom mentioned in relation to
the X300/X308 models. It's one of those things that seems
to have been lost over time. The X308 uses metric thread in
those locations. The X300 is an unknown quantity to
me.

Being a spring virgin, I would still probably want a few loops
of chain to prevent the spring from turning into a missile.

 

Over the years I've had a couple go wild....not on Jags...both times using the floor jack method. Fortunately no harm done other seriously jangled nerves.

The separate spring pan arrangement on Jags makes them easier/safer than some others.

I've known many techs you have removed more springs than you can shake a stick at and they *still* get the heebie-jeebies.

The 4 stud method is virtually foolproof. I feel *almost* totally safe

Cheers
DD

 

Add the safety chain then

I'm thinking ...

a couple of loops wrapped around a coil on each side and
through the front and rear of the upper control arm.

 

I tried both methods and using 3/8 HIGH TENSILE rod in the bolt holes I found the easiest as it locates the pan correctly when re-installing so getting the bolts in is easy. Firstly I used mild steel rod but I found that the treads stared to strip. The High Tensile ones have been used a couple of times and are still good.

I cut an old socket in half across ways and welded a piece of Gal pipe so I could use my air wrench to speed up removal and install.

 

Ok. That sounds better. How does the original tool look? Just so I can picture it...

 

One thing I forgot to mention using the 4 individual threaded rods is make sure the rod does not turn when you undo the nuts.

If your having trouble getting UNF rod you could drill and re-tap the holes to M10. I had to do this to 7/16 because the thread in 1 hole was damaged. The arms are hardened so you will need a HSS tap, a regular tap could break.

 

You can make your own easy to use for about 5$ or less that operates just like the factory tool. I've done it and used it many times.

Go to your local hard ware store and buy...
24 inches (600mm) of 3/4 (19mm) threaded rod.
Matching Rod coupeling nut (Everbilt 3/4 in.-10 tpi Zinc Rod Coupling Nuts-822321 - The Home Depot)
3 larger washers.
1/4 (6mm) inch grade 8 bolt with a length of 2.5 inches (60mm)

Optional items if you want to get fancy. ($$$)
Quick release pin like this (McMaster-Carr)
High Strength threaded rod (McMaster-Carr)
Roller bearing to ease turning. (McMaster-Carr)
Ball to be drilled for rod to allow movement of lower plate. Drill and tap to match threaded rod. Weld on and wings to easy turning. Will sit on 1 ID roller bearing nicely (McMaster-Carr)

Then center punch the side of the threaded rod about 1 inch down from the top and drill a 5/16 (8mm) hole for the cross bolt. Grind down the head of the bolt so its flat on one side.

To use, insert rod up through spring plate. Insert 5/16 cross bolt. Will sit in matching part of at top of sub frame. Install thick washers with grease. Tighten bolt on bottom of threaded rod to compress spring.

I started out with just the rod and washers and recently added a roller bearing. Big difference in efforts needed to turn the nut with the roller bearing but both applications work. Maybe next time I'll add the ball too.

 

Daim
ICSAmerica's system basically reproduces the JEC tool, removing the spring with this tool is straightforward. However, you still need (in my opinion) the threaded rods as when replacing the spring, unless the spring pan is guided into position by at least two rods, it is just about impossible to get it aligned properly with the threaded holes in the bottom wishbone. FWIW, I think using the correct UNF rod is more advisable than retapping the wishbone.
Just put "UNF threaded rod" into ebay.co.uk and you will find loads of suppliers. Where do you think I have to buy all my stuff!? Pic attached of the JEC tool in action. It goes up through centre hole in the subframe spring turret and you can just squeeze your hand in behind the turret to insert the locking piece, then wind away on the huge nut below the spring pan centre hole. There is about 1 tonne of spring pressure max on the threaded rod, so as 19mm rod has a load factor in tension of God knows how many tonnes, you should be Ok with a couple of nuts together, or a long one, as ICSA mentioned.
Greg

 

Thanks for the pict... Next time... I'm going to use those guide rods. I would probably make my own that are smooth and only threaded at the the top.

Using those rods would certainly make it easier because as you mention the alignment is a bit off as it compresses.

I think that would raise the price to about 8$ for the 5/16 rod as long as one has a 5/16-24 die to thread the top of the rod.