Hi have decided to make the car a rolling restoration, well that was my intention, but I got carried away cleaning the interior and now its all stripped out on my garage floor whilst I restore the leather and clean the carpets. I plan to change the headlining too so it makes sense cleaning it all out.

The point to the post is my front left brake caliper is binding- when jacked up it is really stiff to turn the wheel, and impossible to push the car on a flat surface.

A friend has told me to open the bleed nipple and pump the brake pedal, but my logic cant quite understand how this would solve the issue?
Also would I need someone in the car to hold the pedal whilst I tighten the nut up? will just opening and closing the nipple not drawer in air.

Should I just remove and refurbish the caliper or is there and easy fix for this?

 

cornishcat,

You really need to establish exactly what is binding. It could be the pads which can jam on their bottom edges in the calipers. If this is the case, you could remove them clean the caliper edge, top and bottom, where they should move, file off the edge of the pad plate and copperease up the contact area with the caliper. Or it could be the pistons in the calipers which are not able to fractionally retract when you stop pressing the pedal. In which case you may be able to exercise them and get them working again, or they could have corroded and you're looking at rebuilding or replacing the caliper.

I'm not sure what opening the bleed nipple and pressing the brake pedal would do. However, if you are testing if the pistons are jammed open, you need to see if you can push them back. In doing that, you MUST open the bleed nipple first and connecting a tube for the fluid to escape, as you must not push fluid back up the brake pipe on your Teves braking system.

Good luck

Paul

 

There are or might be shims between the top caliper
bolt and the steering arm. Make sure you collect them
Or you could upset the steering geometry.

 

I had a situation where I could not bleed one of the calipers. The fluid would go in, in other words, when I disconnected the line to the caliper, I had no problem forcing fluid through. Once connected, it was a no go. I would get a dribble, but not enough to get the darned caliper to work well.

Never figured out what happened, I just ordered two replacement calipers from RockAuto and replaced both fronts. Easy peasy. Not expensive either.

 

had a sticky front caliper on my '94. Out one day and suddenky no brakes. Piston was sticking in the bore and ended up boiling the brake fluid.
Stripped te caliper down, cleaned bores and piston plus new seals. Has been fine for a few years

 

Hi Cornishcat

How to Remove the Front Calipers and how to Skim the Brake Pads, if they get stuck and the Road Wheels won't turn

But if you need New Calipers, the Cheapest Place that we have found in the (UK) is Parts in Motion

If I remember correctly they were less than £100 each and they were outright purchase (not service exchange) But have the Vin Number ready because they will ask you for that

You would also be well advised to invest in a 240V Mains Powered Impact Wrench, as otherwise they could well be a 'Nightmare' to get off!
Ask me how I know or rather don't

Skimming the Front Brake Pads so they don't Stick and how to remove the Front Calipers with a Mains Powered Impact Wrench

New Calipers from Parts In Motion (if you are in the uk) Cheaper than having them rebuilt