XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Stupid with Brakes

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  #21  
Old 08-30-2018 | 09:13 AM
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The rubber bushes stayed on the car and are very good looking. is that an issue?
 
  #22  
Old 08-30-2018 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by MIFoodie
The rubber bushes stayed on the car and are very good looking. is that an issue?
If you mean they were unbolted from the cage, that is fine. You may find that replacing the cage into the same position on the mounts is tricky, but nothing that cannot be done. FWIW, I found that undoing the bolts holding the bushes to the car was easier, though I did it the cage-undoing way the first time.
If you mean they fell apart when the cage came off, leaving half on the car, then no!
 
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  #23  
Old 08-30-2018 | 10:24 AM
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The rubber bushes are on the car and the bolts are out. The bushes are all in one piece and look great, no tears, or dry rot.
 
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  #24  
Old 09-01-2018 | 10:29 AM
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OK. So I dropped the cage. Everything was really simple so I agree that this is the way do do the job IF you want to renew the rubber in the calipers.

Problem # 1. I broke one bolt that holds the trailing arm to the body. Any suggestions on how to get that out so that I can put in the new bolt?
Problem # 2, Which is harder than # 1. I removed the driver side handbrake and piston. On the passenger side I cannot figure out how to get the bottom bolt from the piston to remove that? The handbrake came out without a problem. I am now stuck !

HELP ! HELP ! HELP !
 
  #25  
Old 09-01-2018 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by MIFoodie
OK. So I dropped the cage. Everything was really simple so I agree that this is the way do do the job IF you want to renew the rubber in the calipers.!
In your photo the cage mounts are on the cage, not on the car MF! Which rubber bushes still on the body are you meaning in your earlier post?

Originally Posted by MIFoodie
Problem # 1. I broke one bolt that holds the trailing arm to the body. Any suggestions on how to get that out so that I can put in the new bolt?
Problem # 2, Which is harder than # 1. I removed the driver side handbrake and piston. On the passenger side I cannot figure out how to get the bottom bolt from the piston to remove that? The handbrake came out without a problem.
1) You will need to drill it out. Carefully make an indent in the middle of the broken bolt and starting with a small diameter drill, progressively drill it out using a series of wider drill bits. Buying a set of anti-clockwise drills may help enormously, as after a bit the remainder may just turn out on the drillbit.
2) Do you mean remove the calliper and handbrake mechanism? If so, on my car you can just get an open ended spanner of the correct size up into the gap between the wishbone inner fulcrum tube and diff and access the lower calliper bolt, and turn the bolt that way. Otherwise it is remove the wishbone inner pivot.
Good luck
Greg
 
  #26  
Old 09-01-2018 | 02:34 PM
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In the earlier post I mention the arms that attach to the body. That is where the rubber bushings are attached to the body.

1) There is still a good bit of bolt showing, but of course no head.
2) Yes the handbrake is off but I can't get a spanner conveniently on the lower bolt of the caliper. I thought that I may have to remove the wishbone inner pivot. Hopefully someone else has another idea.

Thanks for responding.

Bill
 
  #27  
Old 09-01-2018 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MIFoodie
In the earlier post I mention the arms that attach to the body. That is where the rubber bushings are attached to the body.Bill
Can you post a pic, I still cannot follow which part you mean?

If there is enough bolt sticking out, welding a nut onto it might allow it to then be undone.
 
  #28  
Old 09-01-2018 | 08:19 PM
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This is the passenger side caliper that I am trying to remove so that I can replace the disks.


A close up of the bottom passenger side caliper. Note....it is not the bolt holding the caliper together.


And a little closer.


And finally the bolt on the body and you can see the green bushing that I would rather not destroy. I have started to ask if someone would come with a portable welder to weld on a nut.
Look at these. They should help.

Bill
 
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  #29  
Old 09-01-2018 | 09:17 PM
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If it was me I would spray CRC on the thread.
Screw on a nut and weld it.
Use an impact driver / gun with a socket- I have a Pneumatic one and use it all the time. You can buy real nice electric ones now.
Job done.

Alternative option... is the two nut method if there is enough thread, screw two nuts on and tighten them against each other and then use a spanner on the top nut.
Or the true debauchery option..... vice grips but that will be real messy if it super tight.

Go buy the tools, you will use them again and again...
Good luck.
 
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Greg in France (09-02-2018)
  #30  
Old 09-02-2018 | 01:41 AM
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Duke dead right on the broken bolt. OB advised me to get an electric impact gun, and they are absolute magic!

Calliper fixing bolt on your third photo: As I mentioned, the only way to get on it without removing the inner lower wishbone fulcrum is to insert an open ended spanner (wrench) up from below, and undo it a few degrees at a time. You might need an extra lever on the end of the spanner.

I still do not understand which rubber bushing you mean is still on the car, rather than the cage. Can you post a photo of that?
 
  #31  
Old 09-02-2018 | 10:13 AM
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I have the electric impact gun and also contacted someone to weld on a nut. The bushing that I was talking about is not any that was on the cage but was in the radius arm and is the green bushing in picture # 3.
 
  #32  
Old 09-02-2018 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by MIFoodie
I have the electric impact gun and also contacted someone to weld on a nut. The bushing that I was talking about is not any that was on the cage but was in the radius arm and is the green bushing in picture # 3.
That is not a bush, it is a metal bit of the chassis. It does not and should not come off, unless it has rusted out that is! The cup-shape in the bush in the radius arm fits over that green protrusion and the protrusion locates the arm and bush onto the chassis.
 
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