Cheers for the response guys.

Greg not all of my plugs are in the same shape as the first one. Lots of cracked rubber boots but the wires themselves are intact.

The bad one I disconnected and wrapped it up tightly in insulation tape for now although yes I reckon your spot on about getting them swapped out.

Another injector plug:


The dodgey plug after my bodgey fix up:

 

Paul,

That GOO is RTV, and I used a "dob" on the plugs without clips to keep them in place.

Bosch make the connectors in a "kit form", with plug/boot/terminals, and I cannot find the part number of the ones I used, but they were a standard Bosch plug, NOTHING special at all.

Your choice on that loom, but I reckon that it is possibly needing replacing by now. It was supple, sort of, 6 years ago, and if it were mine I would NOT mess with it any longer. You can leave the NEW in the bottom of the V, or move it up out of the fire, again, you choice. Moving it up is simple enough.

You see ready made looms sometimes on ?bay from time to time, and then there is some being offered on the Forum from time to time.

I made my own, easy.

 

Paul
What is that white wire with the huge crack in its insulation, running across the injector connector in this pic you posted? looks like it needs fixing.

Greg

 

Paul bite the bullet and make a new harness, use GXL automotive wire it has a higher temp rating than PVC.

 

Cheers guys. Thanks greatly again for the feedback.

Greg that white wire you see is just a wire I have disconnected from the coil at the moment whilst I have it all pulled out. I just forgot to move it out of the way....it's not normally there

Well yes...hmmmm....its true what they say....there is not just simply doing a "quick job" under the bonnet is there? Ha ha oh well....we have to expect these things from a 30+ year old car.

How much of a PIA is it to swap out the injector loom? I see there is no multipin connector or anything like that. My wires are just guided up to the "A" bank underneath my A/C compressor and are routed away. If I had a new harness I would have to either install a 24 pin plug or splice all those wires correct? And identifying each injector to its corresponding wire further up the tree sounds like a challenge.

Oh dear oh dear oh dear.....


Injector wires routed underneath my A/C compressor (Compressor pulled up)

 

Paul
Renew the connector on that coil wire and strip back the insulation an inch or so to get rid of that break in the insulation. If the insulation is brittle, renew from where it is not brittle.

The injector loom is reasonably easy to change, and now is the time when the V is free of stuff. The loom is fixed to the floor of the V by a bolt and clip, remove this and carefully pull it up and unclip from the injectors. Follow the loom carefully to the front RHS of the engine bay, just behind the headlamp nacelle, next to the Lucas silver box (the resistor pack) you will see a multiplug which is where the injector loom plugs in (unless Grant has moved it to a cooler place which he might have!). As you remove the loom label each injector connector with the cylinder it went to.
A new loom will plug straight in, but this time as Grant suggests, and I did this too at his prompting, cable tie the harness to the fuel rail, NOT to the bottom of the V, and thereby reduce the cooking effect on the insulation. If you make your own harness, as you have carefully removed the old one, you have a template. In this case, I think it is simplest to just splice the OLD multiplug into the new harness leads you make. Usually the insulation in the 6 inches nearest the plug is fine and so you can easily join it at the point to your new one.
The easiest route is just bite the bullet and buy a new one of course!
The multiplug is the one cable tied with a white tie in this pc:

Greg

 

Hi Paul,
I seem to be following your footsteps - only about a week behind! Will be ordering the Magnacores tomorrow and looking around auto electricians in Adelaide for injector plugs/boots and will make up a fresh loom - then suspend it up out of the V!
Cheers and thanks to all contributors to this thread
Paul

 

Hi Bro

I also think its time for a new loom, as I was thinking of making one just for the hell of it if I get bored, as you don't want your old one letting you down when you least expect it.

 

This might help with the layout for that EFI loom.

I will continue to look for the Bosch part number for those injectors plugs, BUT, VL Commodore 6cyl rings a dim bell.

I know that means SQUAT to those overseas, but we Aussies know that car well.

V12 EFI schematics Australian cars.pdf

 

Guys as always thanks a bunch for all the advice.

I think I will indeed bite the bullet and swap out the harness...after all the wise counsel and my own inner voice telling me to do so it seems silly to do anything but.

Greg...whew...i feel red faced now as I can now easily see the loom goes all the way back to that plug near the resistor pack. In effect a "plug and play" job with some extra routing. Thanks for clearing that up. As you can see from the pic, my set up is a little different....i have a plug near my resistor pack with 8 wires pinned in coming from the injectors. I have another 4 pin plug cable tied too to it. Not sure if it is also coming from the injector harness yet (will have to trace out). I firstly figured you'd need 24 wires however I can see that a whole heap have been "commoned" up before the plug. So my question is: Is 8 wires coming from the harness to the plug correct?

Paul Roper just a heads up about the Magnecor leads. The leads were great and I am sure will serve me well however the labeling on mine was all mixed up. I strongly recommend you label your old leads 1A, 2A, 1B, 2B etc so then when your leads come in, and if they are labeled incorrectly, you can at least compare like for like sizes as I had to do. Also be you can use the chart Greg in France posted earlier on in the thread to be sure.

Grant cheers again mate. Like I said I think I won't worry about swapping out plugs and just do the whole harness instead. Is the entire loom something that JagDaim would normally sell? What sort of price would they be asking for it normally?

Do any of you gents have a pic of your injector harness cable tied to the fuel rails instead of the Vee so I can see for comparison?

OB, how did you do yours when you reinstalled your fuel rails on Cherry Blossom?

Well....something that I am used to now but as I work away offshore I am due to fly out in a few days which means I am going to have to press the big pause button for another month and try to remember where the hell I was up to last time I was under the bonnet in November! At least offshore I have the liberty to browse the internet (when one should be working) and research my parts in preparation for the next go at the Goose. A few more days to go...

 

Hi Bro

The Harness is just laying loose at the moment, just to make sure its all working ok before I start clipping it up.

Then I'll just Clip it round in a Circle using Cable ties.

If you order the Parts to day, then you can make a New Harness while you are on the Rig and if you keep all the Wires long, then you can cut them to length when you get back home.

 

Paul,

I dont know about JagDaim at all for that.

I just typed "Bosch Injector Plugs" into ?bay, and the 2nd line is the EV1 style, WITH pigtails, which memory hahaha, has me thinking you need that cut out for ours, due to clamp, but maaaate, its been years.

My looms are up under the inlet manifolds, on top of the camcovers, wrapped in "headerwrap" and out of sight. BUT, my whole wiring system comes in from the REAR of the engine bay, and travels forward to what it needs to connect to. HEAP of electrikery stuff out of the engine bay, so really not a lot of help as far as snaps go. I gutted the engine bay wiring 100% and started again, my way. Took 3 weeks.

As Greg mentioned that Injector Resistor pack, and my moving them out of the engine bay, NO, the Goose is still where Jag put it.

 

Paul. The loom being tied to the fuel rail is dead obvious when you come to do it. It just runs round the rail and the plugs go downward to the injectors. The run from the multiplug goes over the top hose, past the cam cover drive sprocket bulge, and onto the rail. A couple of insulated P clips to hold it here and there and you are done. The OEM harness lengths are fine. I'll take a photo and post it when and if you nee one, just ask.


You should be able to source this sort of thing for the connectors easily enough. As Grant mentioned, you need the ones with the half-moon cutout on the plastic to clear the fixings etc on the injector. Your supplier will ensure you get the right sort for your injector:
Genuine Bosch Fuel Injector Plug for Jaguar V12 1988 3 Series | eBay
Maybe this sort would be easier, just check they fit the same as the above ones with your supplier:
Fuel Injector Sensor Plug Connector for Bosch EV1 Pre Wired with Boot 2 Pin | eBay
and in Oz itself:
Bosch Injector Connector / Plug EV1 and Wires - Quick Release - Pre Wired | eBay
Some supplier will have what you need, that's for sure!
Greg

 

Cheers again guys for all the help


O.B I could....but having a bunch of different coloured wires smuggled in my bag at the air port security screening might not sit too well ha ha ha


Guys cheers for the links and data. I am looking to just get a ready made loom with pig tails going into that 8 pin connector...is that possible? Then it would be more or less, rip out the old harness plug in the new. (With new re-routing)

Else it would mean buying 12 Bosch connectors, cabling for it all and then the pins and plug going into the other end...unless I make a splice in line like you guys are saying. I guess it just leaves more room for error making it from scratch vs buying a ready made loom....but finding one might be the hard part.

I wonder if Jag Heritage sell it as a complete loom? Might duck on there today and have a gander....

 

Paul, SNG Barratt sell a complete loom. Details are:
Fuel Injection Wiring Harness
Product Code: XJ2312
Retail Price:
£254.65


So at about 500 AUD, you might think buying some connectors and making up a harness a worthwhile money saver! using connectors with pigtails, and the old harness as the template, it is really not that hard. Just carefully unwrap the outer from the old one and copy it slavishly. Warrjon will tell you how to make a decent splice, I am sure!
Greg

 

Crikey! That is pretty dear. Enough so I think I might contemplate making my own....Bosch plugs, pins and cable shouldn't be too bad. Probably have to buy the right crimp tool also. Any idea what the AWG or mm2 the cable is for that loom?

Greg thanks for going to the trouble of looking that up for me....your are a true French Gentlemen

Bugger....the last few days of madness before I head off shore...almost about ready to hit the pause button for another month.

Thanks so much to all the gang for all your generous input...

 

Hi Paul,
Well today was a mixed day here, got some good pricing on the plugs, boots and wire from Steve@efihardware.com in Melbourne - about $200, almost ordered it on the spot, and then to buy some Plug leads.. $90 RIST Leads from JagDaim or the Magnacores for about $150. But tonight I finally got all the plugs out. Some VERY TIGHT! even after 10 days or more soaking in a brew of Penetrene, Acetone and ATF.
Compression test .. DANG .. 180-200 everywhere - dry and cold except 1B = 60 !.
My misfire wasnt electrical despite manky plugs and leads..
So Wiring loom rebuild postponed .. a Bigger job ahead (or is that B Head) now!
May need to borrow a head puller... if the condition/tightness of the plugs is anything to go by!

 

Mmmmmmm.

I think I remember you saying this car sat for a looooooong time???

At 60, it has some compression, OK nowhere near the 220+ the 12.5:1 HE should see, but NOT zero, which a burnt valve would indicate.

A stuck/sticking exhaust valve will do that. And 0.002" is more than enough.

Are you hearing a rather noisey tappet when its running??????

1B is NOT a known valve seat dropper, usually #5 or #6, and usually the B bank also.

Pulling either head on these is not for teh feint heaeted, and then you must be midful of that infamous Plastic timing chain tensioner, that is guaranteed to break.

The chance of the head clearing the shocker tower on the XJ-S is tight. Jacking the engine on that side gets iffy in my opinion.

Mine ended up with the engine out at this point, and I was only chasing an oil leak, and a broken tensioner. Stripped and refresshed the whole deal, wise choice by the oldie.

 

Thanks Grant,
Yes, car has done very little as far as I can tell in past 10 yrs..
Hoping it is a sticky valve ... Italian tuneup fix this ??- or is there some other way without the head coming off?

 

I am sure Grant is correct. This is very unlikely to be a serious problem. Just get her running and do a few miles and the chances that the compression will come back are excellent. All the stuff you do has to be done anyway, so just take it steadily and all will very likely be well.
Greg