Swap out Spark Plugs on HE
#81
Agreed.
Also when you refresh that engine oil, use Diesel Oil, 15W40, Standard Mineral will be just fine.
That oil has more detergent packages than Petrol oil, and NO harm will come to that engine, it is NOT aggressive at all. This will work its magic, and unclog the rings, and all other internals.
Run a heavy dose of injector cleaner, any brand, whatever is on special, in our 98 fuel.
Drive it like ya stole it is the only way.
I also agree with Greg, ALL that work needs sorting, no matter what, and if it dont come good, the R&R of the engine will be simple.
Also when you refresh that engine oil, use Diesel Oil, 15W40, Standard Mineral will be just fine.
That oil has more detergent packages than Petrol oil, and NO harm will come to that engine, it is NOT aggressive at all. This will work its magic, and unclog the rings, and all other internals.
Run a heavy dose of injector cleaner, any brand, whatever is on special, in our 98 fuel.
Drive it like ya stole it is the only way.
I also agree with Greg, ALL that work needs sorting, no matter what, and if it dont come good, the R&R of the engine will be simple.
The following 4 users liked this post by Grant Francis:
Greg in France (10-20-2016),
orangeblossom (10-21-2016),
PaulRoper (10-21-2016),
paulyling (10-21-2016)
#82
Paul,
I would not re-use the old injector loom connectors. I would cut the plug off and replace with a modern waterproof Automotive connector.
Like this - except I would use a 5way and 3way so you don't get them mixed up.
2x kits 4 Way Pin Waterproof Automotive/Marine Electrical Wire Connector kit | eBay
The best way to do this is to lash out and purchase a crimping tool like this rather than splicing injector connectors to the harness. It will make a neater job and there is less chance of problems with bad splices.
Ratcheting Crimping Tool for Open Uninsulated Terminals | eBay
If you do decide to splice I use these.
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-...inals/0533673/
I would not re-use the old injector loom connectors. I would cut the plug off and replace with a modern waterproof Automotive connector.
Like this - except I would use a 5way and 3way so you don't get them mixed up.
2x kits 4 Way Pin Waterproof Automotive/Marine Electrical Wire Connector kit | eBay
The best way to do this is to lash out and purchase a crimping tool like this rather than splicing injector connectors to the harness. It will make a neater job and there is less chance of problems with bad splices.
Ratcheting Crimping Tool for Open Uninsulated Terminals | eBay
If you do decide to splice I use these.
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-...inals/0533673/
Last edited by warrjon; 10-21-2016 at 12:28 AM.
The following 5 users liked this post by warrjon:
Grant Francis (10-21-2016),
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#83
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#84
Warren
Those heatshrink connectors you mentioned. How do they work, and what do you do exactly? Slide the thing on one of the wires, twist the two stripped ends together, slide the join into the middle and then heatshrink, or what? Solder then joint first? What does the tin bit in the centre of the jojner actually do, please?
By the by, I do agree new loom connectors are a good idea, but in my case at least, I think reusing the OEM plugs can be actually a pretty good and durable option, as long as a good splice can be done, obviously, and the wires are still supple in that area.
Cheers
Thanks
Greg
Those heatshrink connectors you mentioned. How do they work, and what do you do exactly? Slide the thing on one of the wires, twist the two stripped ends together, slide the join into the middle and then heatshrink, or what? Solder then joint first? What does the tin bit in the centre of the jojner actually do, please?
By the by, I do agree new loom connectors are a good idea, but in my case at least, I think reusing the OEM plugs can be actually a pretty good and durable option, as long as a good splice can be done, obviously, and the wires are still supple in that area.
Cheers
Thanks
Greg
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orangeblossom (10-21-2016)
#85
Heh guys, as far as the Blue Goose is concerned, it looks like I might go down the path of making my own loom when I get back.....got a quote from Jag Daim which surprisingly stock them and it cost $660 for the loom before postage! Crikey! The guy on the phone also asked if my injectors were Cold Start injectors....does anybody know what the answer to that one would be?
Also on the topic of my Magnecor leads...I managed to "rough" them in to make sure they will all fit, even if the labels did not correspond to the plug it was going to...it all fits however one plug is different than all the others:
I have all right angled plugs connecting to the distributor however one has a straight plug different to all the others. (Labelled incorrectly in the photo as A1). At first I thought it might have been the coil plug (king lead), but I have one of those (see bottom pic) that will fit fine. Any idea if there is meant to be a sole straight plug going into the distributor?
Straight A1 Lead:
King Lead
Also on the topic of my Magnecor leads...I managed to "rough" them in to make sure they will all fit, even if the labels did not correspond to the plug it was going to...it all fits however one plug is different than all the others:
I have all right angled plugs connecting to the distributor however one has a straight plug different to all the others. (Labelled incorrectly in the photo as A1). At first I thought it might have been the coil plug (king lead), but I have one of those (see bottom pic) that will fit fine. Any idea if there is meant to be a sole straight plug going into the distributor?
Straight A1 Lead:
King Lead
Last edited by paulyling; 10-21-2016 at 05:09 AM.
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orangeblossom (10-24-2016)
#86
Apart from cosmetics, it makes no difference, Paul. But when you have the coil and capstan tower reinstalled, straight up connectors in that area might make things easier to fit.
Your injectors are not cold start ones. This is the Bosch part number: BOSCH 0280150162
Greg
Your injectors are not cold start ones. This is the Bosch part number: BOSCH 0280150162
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 10-21-2016 at 05:19 AM.
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#87
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#88
Warren
Those heatshrink connectors you mentioned. How do they work, and what do you do exactly? Slide the thing on one of the wires, twist the two stripped ends together, slide the join into the middle and then heatshrink, or what? Solder then joint first? What does the tin bit in the centre of the jojner actually do, please?
Those heatshrink connectors you mentioned. How do they work, and what do you do exactly? Slide the thing on one of the wires, twist the two stripped ends together, slide the join into the middle and then heatshrink, or what? Solder then joint first? What does the tin bit in the centre of the jojner actually do, please?
These type of joiners have been used here in Aus for years by the Telco for repairing underground telephone copper wires. They are durable and weather proof.
Here is a copy of the install instructions.
The following 3 users liked this post by warrjon:
#89
Warren
Those heatshrink connectors you mentioned. How do they work, and what do you do exactly? Slide the thing on one of the wires, twist the two stripped ends together, slide the join into the middle and then heatshrink, or what? Solder then joint first? What does the tin bit in the centre of the jojner actually do, please?
By the by, I do agree new loom connectors are a good idea, but in my case at least, I think reusing the OEM plugs can be actually a pretty good and durable option, as long as a good splice can be done, obviously, and the wires are still supple in that area.
Cheers
Thanks
Greg
Those heatshrink connectors you mentioned. How do they work, and what do you do exactly? Slide the thing on one of the wires, twist the two stripped ends together, slide the join into the middle and then heatshrink, or what? Solder then joint first? What does the tin bit in the centre of the jojner actually do, please?
By the by, I do agree new loom connectors are a good idea, but in my case at least, I think reusing the OEM plugs can be actually a pretty good and durable option, as long as a good splice can be done, obviously, and the wires are still supple in that area.
Cheers
Thanks
Greg
The crimp connection Warren suggested is described in this document
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#90
Cheers guys....sorry for the delay in response. Just out here now in the Indian Ocean 1000's of miles away from the Blue Goose. I guess a good time to step back and figure out what I need for when I return home next month so I can get stuck back into it.
I do have a another question: What gauge is the wire used for that injector harness? (mm2). Is there a standard colour code normally used for this harness as mine has alot of orange white and black thrown in the mix.
Also (without having the luxury of that harness in front of me) what is the general layout of those 8 wires going back to the multipin plug?
My good mate 34by151 seems to think most likely it is:
6 for injector positive, with both banks common
7th for bank 1 earth
8th for bank 2 earth
Thoughts?
In then end I will bring out the old harness into my shed and prepare the new one on a wooden board, labelling as I go, but just curious.
Cheers
I do have a another question: What gauge is the wire used for that injector harness? (mm2). Is there a standard colour code normally used for this harness as mine has alot of orange white and black thrown in the mix.
Also (without having the luxury of that harness in front of me) what is the general layout of those 8 wires going back to the multipin plug?
My good mate 34by151 seems to think most likely it is:
6 for injector positive, with both banks common
7th for bank 1 earth
8th for bank 2 earth
Thoughts?
In then end I will bring out the old harness into my shed and prepare the new one on a wooden board, labelling as I go, but just curious.
Cheers
Last edited by paulyling; 10-24-2016 at 02:29 PM.
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orangeblossom (10-24-2016)
#91
Paul. The loom being tied to the fuel rail is dead obvious when you come to do it. It just runs round the rail and the plugs go downward to the injectors. The run from the multiplug goes over the top hose, past the cam cover drive sprocket bulge, and onto the rail. A couple of insulated P clips to hold it here and there and you are done. The OEM harness lengths are fine. I'll take a photo and post it when and if you nee one, just ask.
You should be able to source this sort of thing for the connectors easily enough. As Grant mentioned, you need the ones with the half-moon cutout on the plastic to clear the fixings etc on the injector. Your supplier will ensure you get the right sort for your injector:
Genuine Bosch Fuel Injector Plug for Jaguar V12 1988 3 Series | eBay
Maybe this sort would be easier, just check they fit the same as the above ones with your supplier:
Fuel Injector Sensor Plug Connector for Bosch EV1 Pre Wired with Boot 2 Pin | eBay
and in Oz itself:
Bosch Injector Connector / Plug EV1 and Wires - Quick Release - Pre Wired | eBay
Some supplier will have what you need, that's for sure!
Greg
You should be able to source this sort of thing for the connectors easily enough. As Grant mentioned, you need the ones with the half-moon cutout on the plastic to clear the fixings etc on the injector. Your supplier will ensure you get the right sort for your injector:
Genuine Bosch Fuel Injector Plug for Jaguar V12 1988 3 Series | eBay
Maybe this sort would be easier, just check they fit the same as the above ones with your supplier:
Fuel Injector Sensor Plug Connector for Bosch EV1 Pre Wired with Boot 2 Pin | eBay
and in Oz itself:
Bosch Injector Connector / Plug EV1 and Wires - Quick Release - Pre Wired | eBay
Some supplier will have what you need, that's for sure!
Greg
Grant did you mention that this plug is the same as some common Oz cars? Would it be as simple as a Repco part or a bit more exotic?
Guys thanks again for all the help.
Last edited by paulyling; 10-24-2016 at 04:30 PM.
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orangeblossom (10-25-2016)
#92
I doubt Repco.
Any Auto Electician, and/or supplier would have them, and back when I did mine the VL Commodore was running Bosch injectors, and that 3ltr engine is the RB30 from the Skyline heritage.
Most Aussie EFI cars ran Bosch injectors, and the Jag was no different. It was just a matter of that cutout to clear the hose connection on ours, but that 2 pin plug is what is known in the industry as a "standad Bosch Injector plug", nothing special at all.
Any Auto Electician, and/or supplier would have them, and back when I did mine the VL Commodore was running Bosch injectors, and that 3ltr engine is the RB30 from the Skyline heritage.
Most Aussie EFI cars ran Bosch injectors, and the Jag was no different. It was just a matter of that cutout to clear the hose connection on ours, but that 2 pin plug is what is known in the industry as a "standad Bosch Injector plug", nothing special at all.
The following 3 users liked this post by Grant Francis:
#93
I doubt Repco.
Any Auto Electician, and/or supplier would have them, and back when I did mine the VL Commodore was running Bosch injectors, and that 3ltr engine is the RB30 from the Skyline heritage.
Most Aussie EFI cars ran Bosch injectors, and the Jag was no different. It was just a matter of that cutout to clear the hose connection on ours, but that 2 pin plug is what is known in the industry as a "standad Bosch Injector plug", nothing special at all.
Any Auto Electician, and/or supplier would have them, and back when I did mine the VL Commodore was running Bosch injectors, and that 3ltr engine is the RB30 from the Skyline heritage.
Most Aussie EFI cars ran Bosch injectors, and the Jag was no different. It was just a matter of that cutout to clear the hose connection on ours, but that 2 pin plug is what is known in the industry as a "standad Bosch Injector plug", nothing special at all.
So I am assuming some of the Standard Bosch Connectors don't have the cut out to clear the hose? I will definately ask about this if I order over the phone.
Also in regards to the wiring. I would like to keep the colour code standard. Does anybody know what colour Injector postive and negative is supposed to be?
Well...I guess the topic for this post was about changing the spark plugs, which are now done. Would the forum moderators like me to start a new thread on the Injector Harness or keep this one going you think?
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orangeblossom (10-25-2016)
#94
I do have a another question: What gauge is the wire used for that injector harness? (mm2). Is there a standard colour code normally used for this harness as mine has alot of orange white and black thrown in the mix.
Also (without having the luxury of that harness in front of me) what is the general layout of those 8 wires going back to the multipin plug?
My good mate 34by151 seems to think most likely it is:
6 for injector positive, with both banks common
7th for bank 1 earth
8th for bank 2 earth
Thoughts?
In then end I will bring out the old harness into my shed and prepare the new one on a wooden board, labelling as I go, but just curious.
Cheers
Also (without having the luxury of that harness in front of me) what is the general layout of those 8 wires going back to the multipin plug?
My good mate 34by151 seems to think most likely it is:
6 for injector positive, with both banks common
7th for bank 1 earth
8th for bank 2 earth
Thoughts?
In then end I will bring out the old harness into my shed and prepare the new one on a wooden board, labelling as I go, but just curious.
Cheers
Use GXL wire, this is what all the car makers use these days for engine bay wiring as the insulation is higher temperature rated.
Wire size, in this case bigger is better. I'd use 3mm which is rated at 15amps. US AWG 16, 26 x 0.3.
A board is a good way of making a harness, we did this to make the harness for marine radios years ago when we still made stuff in Australia.
Use the old harness lay it on the board and use nails where the bends are.
The following 3 users liked this post by warrjon:
#95
Use GXL wire, this is what all the car makers use these days for engine bay wiring as the insulation is higher temperature rated.
Wire size, in this case bigger is better. I'd use 3mm which is rated at 15amps. US AWG 16, 26 x 0.3.
A board is a good way of making a harness, we did this to make the harness for marine radios years ago when we still made stuff in Australia.
Use the old harness lay it on the board and use nails where the bends are.
Wire size, in this case bigger is better. I'd use 3mm which is rated at 15amps. US AWG 16, 26 x 0.3.
A board is a good way of making a harness, we did this to make the harness for marine radios years ago when we still made stuff in Australia.
Use the old harness lay it on the board and use nails where the bends are.
Also anybody know the correct colour codes for this injector harness? I might have to have a squiz in the HE supplement of my workshop manual when I get home from sea.
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orangeblossom (10-26-2016)
#96
Paul,
I used 3mm trailer wire, in the 7 core stuff (gave me 7 colours), and I got hold of Wurth (German brand), and since I had already decided to install the new loom under the inlet manifold/s, and wrap it in Header Wrap, from the local Speed Shop. The heat quality was not in the brain, coz I reckoned the original lasted 13 years and was still pliable and working. That new loom is now still very pliable and I see no heat markings at all.
I kept it simple and cheap, money was TIGHT in those days, and the Daily Driver had to go on a Daily basis. Saturday night and Sundays was car day, that was it. Thats why I love the reliability of the XJ-S V12, after 16 years it never let me down.
This wiring schematics gives the colour codes and the connection sequence. You might need to enlarge it a tad depending on how good your eyes are.
V12 EFI schematics Australian cars.pdf
I used 3mm trailer wire, in the 7 core stuff (gave me 7 colours), and I got hold of Wurth (German brand), and since I had already decided to install the new loom under the inlet manifold/s, and wrap it in Header Wrap, from the local Speed Shop. The heat quality was not in the brain, coz I reckoned the original lasted 13 years and was still pliable and working. That new loom is now still very pliable and I see no heat markings at all.
I kept it simple and cheap, money was TIGHT in those days, and the Daily Driver had to go on a Daily basis. Saturday night and Sundays was car day, that was it. Thats why I love the reliability of the XJ-S V12, after 16 years it never let me down.
This wiring schematics gives the colour codes and the connection sequence. You might need to enlarge it a tad depending on how good your eyes are.
V12 EFI schematics Australian cars.pdf
The following 3 users liked this post by Grant Francis:
#97
Paul,
I used 3mm trailer wire, in the 7 core stuff (gave me 7 colours), and I got hold of Wurth (German brand), and since I had already decided to install the new loom under the inlet manifold/s, and wrap it in Header Wrap, from the local Speed Shop. The heat quality was not in the brain, coz I reckoned the original lasted 13 years and was still pliable and working. That new loom is now still very pliable and I see no heat markings at all.
I kept it simple and cheap, money was TIGHT in those days, and the Daily Driver had to go on a Daily basis. Saturday night and Sundays was car day, that was it. Thats why I love the reliability of the XJ-S V12, after 16 years it never let me down.
This wiring schematics gives the colour codes and the connection sequence. You might need to enlarge it a tad depending on how good your eyes are.
Attachment 137963
I used 3mm trailer wire, in the 7 core stuff (gave me 7 colours), and I got hold of Wurth (German brand), and since I had already decided to install the new loom under the inlet manifold/s, and wrap it in Header Wrap, from the local Speed Shop. The heat quality was not in the brain, coz I reckoned the original lasted 13 years and was still pliable and working. That new loom is now still very pliable and I see no heat markings at all.
I kept it simple and cheap, money was TIGHT in those days, and the Daily Driver had to go on a Daily basis. Saturday night and Sundays was car day, that was it. Thats why I love the reliability of the XJ-S V12, after 16 years it never let me down.
This wiring schematics gives the colour codes and the connection sequence. You might need to enlarge it a tad depending on how good your eyes are.
Attachment 137963
Yeah I guess If I can't get the colour code the same it is no biggy. Its just if I can get my hand on those colours I will try and make it the same.
Looking at that PDF the only colours I can work out is OW which I assume is orange white, OG to be orange and OS orange silver (?)
Does anybody know what KW, KU, KG, KS and KB are supposed to denote?
Google says these colours start with K:
List of colors starting by K | Wild Ones Wiki | Fandom powered by Wikia
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orangeblossom (10-26-2016)
#98
Paul
I am not disputing your last post, just mentioning in case you think otherwise, that the injector loom plugs all the injector wires into the main loom at that big white plug. The power resistor also plugs into the main loom. The injector loom does not separate into two plugs in the engine bay, even though that may be happening elsewhere in the main loom structure, for all I know.
Greg
I am not disputing your last post, just mentioning in case you think otherwise, that the injector loom plugs all the injector wires into the main loom at that big white plug. The power resistor also plugs into the main loom. The injector loom does not separate into two plugs in the engine bay, even though that may be happening elsewhere in the main loom structure, for all I know.
Greg
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paulyling (10-26-2016)
#99
Cheers Greg. Yeah from memory that is how mine is configured also and Grant believes this hasn't been touched since Uncle Jaguar built it so I think it will be as you say.
Guys do you think I should create another post now that the topic has moved from Spark Plugs to injectors or is it ok to keep this thread going here?
Guys do you think I should create another post now that the topic has moved from Spark Plugs to injectors or is it ok to keep this thread going here?
#100
You can get GXL wire from Bursons Auto Parts, at least I can in Warrnambool.
or on eBay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/11-AUTOMO...MAAOSwZ8ZW3YZ8
Also get yourself a crimping tool and crimp the injector connectors directly to the new harness.
or on eBay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/11-AUTOMO...MAAOSwZ8ZW3YZ8
Also get yourself a crimping tool and crimp the injector connectors directly to the new harness.
Last edited by warrjon; 10-26-2016 at 03:18 PM.
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