Tevez query
#1
Tevez query
Hi all, still got the abs light on in my 89 convertible 5.3. Tevez system. I’ve bleed the brakes twice but the pedal still feels soft . I will try again but wondered if this might be a reason the lights on? All sensors checked and working and I’ve had it over 19 mph for a re set. Before I start spending on a new accumulator I thought I’d rule out the cheapest options. Thanks for any input.
#2
how long does the pump run for when you start the engine ( or position 2 on the ignition ) it will buzz, shouldn't be more than 30 seconds , or as you suspect , the accumulator is probably at fault
xj40 ones, and some American car units will fit , changing is easy once you manage to unscrew the existing one ,
take great care in bleeding the system, TEVES systems do not like fluid going against the flow, it puts debris in the seals in the solenoid block
BB
xj40 ones, and some American car units will fit , changing is easy once you manage to unscrew the existing one ,
take great care in bleeding the system, TEVES systems do not like fluid going against the flow, it puts debris in the seals in the solenoid block
BB
#3
#4
brinny,
If anyone removed the pads without first undoing the caliper bleed nipple and fitting a drain pipe, then it's quite possible that fluid can get pushed back to the valve block.
As regards bleeding the Teves system, you must always start by bleeding the low-pressure side before doing the wheel circuits, otherwise you can be forever chasing your tail to get rid of the air. I assume you did that when the system was refilled?
As BB has mentioned, how long does it take to build up pressure? Try completely discharging the accumulated pressure with the ignition off (30 presses of the brake pedal) then turn on the ignition and count how long the pump runs. Then also see how many presses you get before the pump cuts back in. I wouldn't condemn the accumulator just yet.
Good luck
Paul
If anyone removed the pads without first undoing the caliper bleed nipple and fitting a drain pipe, then it's quite possible that fluid can get pushed back to the valve block.
As regards bleeding the Teves system, you must always start by bleeding the low-pressure side before doing the wheel circuits, otherwise you can be forever chasing your tail to get rid of the air. I assume you did that when the system was refilled?
As BB has mentioned, how long does it take to build up pressure? Try completely discharging the accumulated pressure with the ignition off (30 presses of the brake pedal) then turn on the ignition and count how long the pump runs. Then also see how many presses you get before the pump cuts back in. I wouldn't condemn the accumulator just yet.
Good luck
Paul
#5
brinny,
If anyone removed the pads without first undoing the caliper bleed nipple and fitting a drain pipe, then it's quite possible that fluid can get pushed back to the valve block.
As regards bleeding the Teves system, you must always start by bleeding the low-pressure side before doing the wheel circuits, otherwise you can be forever chasing your tail to get rid of the air. I assume you did that when the system was refilled?
As BB has mentioned, how long does it take to build up pressure? Try completely discharging the accumulated pressure with the ignition off (30 presses of the brake pedal) then turn on the ignition and count how long the pump runs. Then also see how many presses you get before the pump cuts back in. I wouldn't condemn the accumulator just yet.
Good luck
Paul
If anyone removed the pads without first undoing the caliper bleed nipple and fitting a drain pipe, then it's quite possible that fluid can get pushed back to the valve block.
As regards bleeding the Teves system, you must always start by bleeding the low-pressure side before doing the wheel circuits, otherwise you can be forever chasing your tail to get rid of the air. I assume you did that when the system was refilled?
As BB has mentioned, how long does it take to build up pressure? Try completely discharging the accumulated pressure with the ignition off (30 presses of the brake pedal) then turn on the ignition and count how long the pump runs. Then also see how many presses you get before the pump cuts back in. I wouldn't condemn the accumulator just yet.
Good luck
Paul
#6
there is a method to get the ABS light to flash to show a particular code that is stored in the ECU,
a little google search might be required because i cant remember the method right now,
however, the code will flash a number sequence, the first and second flashed digits will lead you to troubleshooting the issue stored in the ECU , the actual light in the dash flashes
i seem to remember having to link out two pins by the ABS ECU in the boot/trunk to make the code flash with the ignition switch on , standard practice for the dealerships back in the day , probably a lost or forgotten method now
BB
a little google search might be required because i cant remember the method right now,
however, the code will flash a number sequence, the first and second flashed digits will lead you to troubleshooting the issue stored in the ECU , the actual light in the dash flashes
i seem to remember having to link out two pins by the ABS ECU in the boot/trunk to make the code flash with the ignition switch on , standard practice for the dealerships back in the day , probably a lost or forgotten method now
BB
Last edited by Brake buster; 10-26-2020 at 03:30 AM.
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ptjs1 (10-26-2020)
#7
Well I've tried it this morning and after 30 pumps to empty it, it took 1min 5 seconds to fill. It then took two pumps before it started again. It then took about 5 seconds to re-fill. Think its had it what do you reckon? Also after 12 of the 30 pumps the pedal went hard. Anti lock light still on.
Last edited by brinny; 10-26-2020 at 07:57 AM.
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#8
#10
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Greg in France (10-26-2020)
#11
brinny,
You MAY need a new accumulator and I understand that you've already ordered one. But I would really try and diagnose the problem first before fitting it.
As I understand it, you've got the ABS (but not the handbrake warning light or general brake warning) light permanently on? You've also got a soft pedal. You take about a minute to repressurise after a complete discharge. And you get the pump cutting in after 2 applications of the brake pedal.
The soft pedal IMPLIES air in the system still rather than a failed accumulator. And the 60 second repressure from complete discharge isn't unusual. The 2-application pump refresh isn't ideal but it's not unknown.
If it were my car, I would re-bleed (again, I know!) but you must start with a low-pressure circuit bleed before you do the wheel circuits. After that do the wheel circuits (the Teves way, not the Jaguar way). Then drive it. If you've still got a soft pedal, do it all again!
After that, if the pedal is firm but the ABS light is still permanently illuminated, do the blink test and see if you've got any codes stored which may indicate wiring or sensor problems.
Then test the ABS pump relay. Then test the Pressure Switch at zero pressure status.
Then sit back and see where you've got to!
Good luck
Paul
You MAY need a new accumulator and I understand that you've already ordered one. But I would really try and diagnose the problem first before fitting it.
As I understand it, you've got the ABS (but not the handbrake warning light or general brake warning) light permanently on? You've also got a soft pedal. You take about a minute to repressurise after a complete discharge. And you get the pump cutting in after 2 applications of the brake pedal.
The soft pedal IMPLIES air in the system still rather than a failed accumulator. And the 60 second repressure from complete discharge isn't unusual. The 2-application pump refresh isn't ideal but it's not unknown.
If it were my car, I would re-bleed (again, I know!) but you must start with a low-pressure circuit bleed before you do the wheel circuits. After that do the wheel circuits (the Teves way, not the Jaguar way). Then drive it. If you've still got a soft pedal, do it all again!
After that, if the pedal is firm but the ABS light is still permanently illuminated, do the blink test and see if you've got any codes stored which may indicate wiring or sensor problems.
Then test the ABS pump relay. Then test the Pressure Switch at zero pressure status.
Then sit back and see where you've got to!
Good luck
Paul
#12
If it were my car, I would re-bleed (again, I know!) but you must start with a low-pressure circuit bleed before you do the wheel circuits.
Paul[/QUOTE]
just to be clear, do you mean remove the plastic elbow near the accumulator and let some run out as described by orange blossom previously? I intend bleeding the wheel circuits again as I think there is still air in the system.
Paul[/QUOTE]
just to be clear, do you mean remove the plastic elbow near the accumulator and let some run out as described by orange blossom previously? I intend bleeding the wheel circuits again as I think there is still air in the system.
#13
brinny,
That's correct. It's the feed from the reservoir to the pump.
Ensure ignition off. Top up reservoir. Carefully pull the clip, remove the pipe from the pump body, Fluid will / should immediately flow. Let fluid flow into a container until steady and no air pockets. Replace pipe whilst fluid flowing and refit clip. Ideally replace seal on pipe first but I'm not sure if it's available from Jagyar anymore. I'll check. Have plenty of rags under pipe during whole procedure, plus container to catch fluid.
Really important to do this before going near wheel circuits. And do the rear wheel circuits as per Teves recommended routine. I've described before but let me know if you don't have it.
Cheers
Paul
That's correct. It's the feed from the reservoir to the pump.
Ensure ignition off. Top up reservoir. Carefully pull the clip, remove the pipe from the pump body, Fluid will / should immediately flow. Let fluid flow into a container until steady and no air pockets. Replace pipe whilst fluid flowing and refit clip. Ideally replace seal on pipe first but I'm not sure if it's available from Jagyar anymore. I'll check. Have plenty of rags under pipe during whole procedure, plus container to catch fluid.
Really important to do this before going near wheel circuits. And do the rear wheel circuits as per Teves recommended routine. I've described before but let me know if you don't have it.
Cheers
Paul
#14
#15
brinny,
That's correct. It's the feed from the reservoir to the pump.
Ensure ignition off. Top up reservoir. Carefully pull the clip, remove the pipe from the pump body, Fluid will / should immediately flow. Let fluid flow into a container until steady and no air pockets. Replace pipe whilst fluid flowing and refit clip. Ideally replace seal on pipe first but I'm not sure if it's available from Jagyar anymore. I'll check. Have plenty of rags under pipe during whole procedure, plus container to catch fluid.
Really important to do this before going near wheel circuits. And do the rear wheel circuits as per Teves recommended routine. I've described before but let me know if you don't have it.
Cheers
Paul
That's correct. It's the feed from the reservoir to the pump.
Ensure ignition off. Top up reservoir. Carefully pull the clip, remove the pipe from the pump body, Fluid will / should immediately flow. Let fluid flow into a container until steady and no air pockets. Replace pipe whilst fluid flowing and refit clip. Ideally replace seal on pipe first but I'm not sure if it's available from Jagyar anymore. I'll check. Have plenty of rags under pipe during whole procedure, plus container to catch fluid.
Really important to do this before going near wheel circuits. And do the rear wheel circuits as per Teves recommended routine. I've described before but let me know if you don't have it.
Cheers
Paul
#16
Just an update on this. I've today replaced the accumulator with new. Blead the low pressure side again but all seemed ok anyway there. Then blead the brakes as prescribed. Virtually no air in rears. Small amount of air in passenger side front and next to no air in drivers side front. Told the missus to turn the ignition on and re pressure the system. Then pump brakes. Got one press before pump kicked in. Any ideas ????
#17
Hi brinny.
I had a problem with my car with the pedal sinking when pushed. I would turn the ignition on and the pump would run and fill my new accumulator. When pushing on the pedal it would sink and the pump would cut in. You could actually see the fluid being returned to the brake reservoir. This was caused by filthy brake fluid and air in the rear brakes. Once this was all flushed out and the brakes properly bled the problem was sorted.
Rob.
I had a problem with my car with the pedal sinking when pushed. I would turn the ignition on and the pump would run and fill my new accumulator. When pushing on the pedal it would sink and the pump would cut in. You could actually see the fluid being returned to the brake reservoir. This was caused by filthy brake fluid and air in the rear brakes. Once this was all flushed out and the brakes properly bled the problem was sorted.
Rob.
#20