no you don't. Check out orange blossoms thread on how to do it he has pictures I think.

 

Hi Rescue 119

Here is my thread on how to Bleed the Low Pressure Side of the Teves Mk1V Master Cylinder including lots of Photos to show you what goes where, for which I would like to acknowledge all the help I got from Paul (ptjs) who showed me how to do this in the first place

Three things to watch out for

(1) Don't let the Reservoir ever run out of Brake Fluid

(2) Don't Break the Plastic Elbow as you very carefully jiggle it out of the Brake Pump (Do Not attempt to turn on the Ignition!)

(3) Don't Spill any Brake Fluid on the Paintwork or it will strip it in an instant and really spoil your day or even your life!

You need to remove the Plastic Elbow, at which point Brake Fluid will run free and then as soon as the Brake Fluid starts to run Clear without any Air Bubbles, push the Plastic Elbow back into the Brake Pump while the Brake Fluid is Still Running, in other words you do it on the 'Fly'

Which means its really going to make a little bit of a mess, so pack loads of old rag round the Brake Pump and Cover all the Paintwork including inside the Engine Bay itself and have some soapy water ready to sluice down any spills

And unlike me the First Time that I did this, remember you can always put your finger over the open end of the Plastic Elbow to Stop the Flow of Brake Fluid when you pull it out of the Brake Pump if you feel you need to

All you are really doing is a Gravity Bleed from the Reservoir to the Brake Pump with no pressure involved (just keep the Keys in your pocket until its all done)

It can be a little Traumatic the first time you do this, so if your knees turn to Jelly, that's perfectly Normal

Gravity Bleeding the Low Pressure Side of the Teves Mk1V Master Cylinder Actuator

 

brinny,

Discharge the system with ignition off. 30 pumps.

Turn on ignition. How long does pump run before cutting out with the new accumulator?

Paul

 

cheers Paul. I will have a look today and let you know

 

31 seconds paul

 

brinny,

That's an annoying one! Less than 30 secs, I'd say you might have a pressure switch problem. More than a minute with a new accumulator, i might start thinking about the pump. 30 secs doesn't sound unreasonable. But with a new accumulator, repressure after a single pedal pressure is unusual.

The difficulty is that the pressure switch is hard for many people to test at home. You can test the switch contacts when in de-pressurised state etc but it feels as if the switch is cutting in and out. Although it may be cutting out much earlier than full pressure, giving rise to recycle after every pedal press? But the 30 seconds initial charge isn't unreasonable? So a difficult one!

It is possible that a pedal press from rest is taking more charge to push the pistons and pads into contact than in normal driving use?

If it were me, I think I would drive it around a bit, trying to listen to the pump frequency and the number of brake applications and see if it is ALWAYS after each application.

Let us know how you get on.

Paul

 

Ok Paul cheers. It maybe a while though I've just moved it into its winter storage position. Made a bit of room for a series 3 donor car I've bought thats coming tomorrow. Things are going to be a bit cramped for a few months but I want to get it undercover so it drys out over winter. The series 3 that is. Its been kept in a shipping container for the last 18 months and the condensation is horrendous. Been better left outside.

 

I am still nibbling away at this problem and after a few searches read about the change in brake pressure switch from black connector to blue and the need to replace the relay. After doing a search on e bay for a possible replacement I noticed amongst the results a lot of adverts for Range Rover switches. Next day I nipped to the car to check whether I had a black or blue switch fitted and low and behold it’s one of these Range Rover ones! Now every job I’ve been to on this car has always been visited by a previous owner and 9/10 with poor results. So....... can anyone tell me if these Range Rover p38 Wabco switches are a suitable replacement and if so what relay is needed? Mine field or what! Think my best bet is a new jag switch and relay. Can anyone give me the relay part numbers. Thanks all

 

Just checked on jaguar classic parts and the relay number is the same for both vin ranges? Think someone else might have to have a look at this one for me!,

 

Thanks. I just saw this now for some reason.

I'm never worried about spilling on the paint, well I am, but won't kill me as a full respray will be in order in a few years if im done everything then lol

cheers

 

Hi Brinny

Bit of a long shot but it might be worth checking the Two 30 amp Fuses in the Fuse Box under the Knee Pad, passenger side on a UK Car one of those is for the Pump and the other is for the ABS Master Cylinder Actuator

Maybe one of those Fuses has Blown or removing it and replacing it might reset something, they are the Two Green Fuses in a separate place of there own

Please keep us posted how you get on with some photos if possible, as the Brakes can be a bit of a total PIA on these Cars