With that CTS, simply use a paper clip, and bridge the 2 female terminals IN the plug. Thats all that is needed to "fool" the ECU. No need to replug, or try to replug to the CTS, which I doubt would be possible with a bridge wire inserted.

 

Thanks Grant ! I was scratching my head for awhile on the replug lol. I'll just get paperclip to fit as bridge (no replug) and see if that works. Got it. That helps a lot.

 

Hello, I was able to find a paperclip to fasten into a bridge for the CTS test and after recharging battery it still just cranks well. (Pics enclosed) I did need to replace the hood struts, as it started falling on my head, before further work, and was able to find replacement struts at Partsgeek.com which surprisingly has many XJS OEM parts. The alternator (lightning bolt) light illuminates entire time (Alt has had few issues in past but replaced 12 years ago) Next test will be wet spark where I'll use a 5/8" socket to remove easiest plug. Thanks for any advice!

CTS test w/clip

New struts. No more concussions lol.

 

These may sound like silly questions, but they're rooted in my used car experience. Have you drained the old gas out of it and replaced it with fresh gas? Have you taken a good, hard look at the fuel filter? If that's all been done, then never mind, carry on.

 

 

Injector connections on tight but if I put black on block and red at base I get nothing. If I try to put both on connector base same thing..one read 1 briefly. Looked at electrical loom on left bank looked great, finally checked other side and suprised to see gunked up/tape beginning to lose adhesive so looking at unwrapping carefully to see what I have. Now any tricks, what to watch, best fix etc. always welcome as a complete newby with auto electric repairs but learning fast. Thank you!

 

Well found.

That loom sounds like it been patched before.

My suggestion:

Unplug it, labeling all the Injector plugs as you go.
Lift it out of the "V", and if possible, take it to a work bench.
Carefully, unwrap it, TAKE snaps,. and MAKE mudmap style drawings, your memory will not be as good as you think it is.

Maybe when you get to the section that was outside the "V"., the wires will still pliable and usable. Splice in new wires, ONE AT A TIME, taking notes as you go.

Rebuilding that loom now is the only reliable way, any short cuts and you will be haunted by unreliability forever.

Bosch did an Injector plug "kit", with boot, plug, terminals, but that was YEARS ago, and I cannot find the part number as I type, but I reckon other members have found suitable "kits" on ?bay etc. The V12 Injector plug is NOT unique.

Of course, I have heard of replacement looms made by members for those that are not comfortable doing this rebuild. A quick search should find them.

 

Thank you Grant! I'll definitely search for the Bosch injector plug kit or similar on ebay. Glad V12 isn't unique here. My connectors are so strong and in difficult positions that replacing one seems inevitable lol. I'll take better pics of my engine to see what all I need to move first and how to remove connectors to get going. Thanks again!

 

So read about various type of injector connections in XJS but just needed to stop treating it as delicate and firmly grasp connector and slowly rock it side to side until it popped off nicely (2 so far lol) others to follow when I look at what needs to be moved out of the way first and confirm with members.

 

Hello While my 87 XJSC is still waiting for a new injector harness being built, it "burped up" about a cup of coolant from under the engine overnight a month ago. I topped it off (still can't start so hasn't been driven in almost a year) and it did it again today, a month later. Thinking pressure test to find leak while I wait for harness? Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

OOPS,

My first thought is there is a stray CAT on the prowl, and this one is marking its territory.

The real deal:

I suspect a hose is weeping, or the front cross pipe, the one with teh filler cap on it, has rotted out on the underside, that I have seen a few times.
Depending on where the "burp" is, and the run down from elsewhere is taken into consideration, the list of areas is large.

A pressure test, 10psi should locate it very quickly.

Good luck.

 

Lol funny and glad to know about the 10 psi on the cooling system. I'll try to rent the required equipment nearby, depending on what's open nowadays in California, and find that odd burb/leak. I have some ROM to read and I'm certain I'll have questions before I jump in. Thanks again! Dave

 

Injector harness arrived from SNG Barratt (operations back up/$395 delivered for Jagforum members) so looking forward to placing it up high, out of the V after I sort out coolant leak. Able to purchase a cooling system pressure tester with adapter for XJS delivered for $82 from O'Reilly's. Renting a system was problematic out here in CA with out of control virus. Anyway, funny how small the print and esp. diagrams are in the ROM, or I'm just getting old lol. Need to read Kirby as well then buy some coolant and get testing.

New harnesses available!

 

Well think I finally found coolant leak after using new pressure tester. Brought it up to 10psi and couldn't locate hissing..then disconnected it and droped to floor and it seemed to be dripping from hoses that connect underneath the engine, meeting in the middle with clamps just behind air dam. Going to purchase ramps from Harbor Freight to be able to see clearly underneath. Pics didn't work but I'll try later.

 

that rubber boot should be slid onto a spade connector at the end of the full throttle switch next to the other one. It appears to be currently shoved into the lever of the switch. I suspect the spade broke off and is still in the connector and somehow got wedged in its current position. The switch is important. If you open the throttle sufficiently it will enrich the fuel-air mixture. As it stand you can’t open the throttle fully. It should travel 90 degrees.

 

Thank you for that information! I have looked at other engine pics and thought that's probably where it belongs but sidetracked with coolant leak b4 installing new injector harness. Seems to want to go right in there but not certain it will stay over time.

 

Hello, I finally found exact hose leaking coolant under car. As I lay on the ground, it is an elongated z shaped hose furthest to the right attached to metal pipe at right end under radiator and hextype screwon clamp on left side. See pics. Can't read number to order new hose. Cant find it online. Any help as to which hose to order that I hope includes metal clamps? On an aside, disconnected all injector harness connectors and plug but doesn't want to budge from V. I am assuming I need to remove cruise control to get it out? I have combed through the engine while learning about this car and just found chewed distributor harness so definitely know I had mice get in there sometime.

 

OK, with my one working eye I see:

Oil cooler hose leaking at the swage fitting, with a drop of oil about to give up to gravity.

Memory now:

I cannot picture any coolant hoses below the engine, EXCEPT the large lower radiator hose, and the smaller heater return hose, BOTH on teh B Bank side of the car.
The other coolant hoses are all above the engine in basic terms.

I have had coolant dripping off those oil cooler hoses, and has always been from the hose that joins the water pump TOP spout to the cross pipe lower spigot, about 1 1/2" diam, and about 2 1/2" long, and a MONGREL to change.

There is a 1/2" bendy hose that come from the top of that cross pipe, and works its way down to the steel header tank.

 

Pressurize the coolant sys to 10psi and see whats what.

original injector harness affixed to engine with small little clamps very annoying get that harness off the boiling hot floor!

Mice? Soak a rag in peppermint oil and leave in engine bay. It wont hurt to splash abit all over, trunk and interior to if needed. Mice hate peppermint.

 

I really appreciate your help here Grant. I'll coolant pressure test again now that I know I'm not looking at a coolant hose under there. Saw oil weep on that tiny bolt thought I might be able to tighten it up but sounds like oil cooler hose leak. Great information on mice repellent. I have found one tiny harness clamp on top (fun to remove lol) on its way under the compressor so clearly there are more to find. Do I need to remove anything in my search? Well that gets me going now that CA air is safe to breathe again after the fires. I clearly have a lot of work to do so thank you again for demystifying these beasts.