Thanks for your time

I'm a bit embarrassed as I did google "coachline" and could have saved the question, but really should have known.

It will be a good exercise to go look - and use those blemishes as negotiation points.

It's been at this dealer for a very long time I'm sure they'd love to move it.

We'll see.

 

The wood veneer on top the trans tunnel looks like it may be starting to delaminate?

 

New member here from the U.K.Fascinating thread.

I’ve owned an 89 V12 for the last 5 years. A Labour of love but well worth every £ spent.

Currently have restored/replaced most parts.

Lots of body work cut out and replaced as they suffer in the U.K. weather. I bought mine without knowing too much about them but my dad used to own one so a bit of a nostalgic trip.

£4k purchase £18k restoration. Not in it to make £ as I would have failed miserably there.

It’s currently having finally metal work finished, rear arches and quarter panels then off for a fresh coat of paint.

 

Mike,

Negotiating because of "blemishes" is fine, but really look at that left wing (fender?) carefully. Open the bonnet (hood!) and check the line of attachment bolts in the channel to the inner wing. It'll be fairly easy to see if that wing has been removed at some time. And of course, you need to ascertain why it has been removed. The picture may be deceiving but it doesn't seem attached and in line properly with the sill (rocker?) You really want to know if it has had a knock on that left side.

Good luck. Let us all know how you get on.

Paul

 

Thanks Paul for that advice.

It's a nice car. I spoke to a salesperson yesterday who insisted that everything was factory paint, never in accident, etc.

He also claimed that his Carfax report doesn't show the car as stolen, even though the one on Autotrader listing does.

The Autotrader listing also shows this dealership has owned this car since 2019 - 2 years.

Based on the salespersons' tone with me I can see why.

 

Hey All-
Not sure anyone is still looking at this thread - But thought I'd post on it again.

Had a chance to look at --- in person --- a 1993, 6cyl. convertible, 5-speed. Really nice body, cream white color (not glacier white), great interior.
Status of car - so would like advice -
1. 62K, one owner car
2. Really perfect body paint and interior, and assume undercarriage is same given history of the car - never driven in rain or snow.
3. Engine started right up - owner reports sometimes white smoke from exhaust on start-up. Idled car for about 15 min. everything was OK but oil smoke(like a mist rising up) did start to appear from passenger side of engine after about 10 min time. Engine bay was VERY clean.
4. Car cannot be driven far due to rear brakes binding upon heat up while driving. Last registered in 2018.
5. Antennae quirky operation, up/down randomly at times.
6. When visit was over and car restarted to put into garage, white smoke did come out the exhaust.
7. A/C not working and is disconnected from engine b/c it makes noise. Original owner like it on with top down and so it got used!
8. Owner not sure heat works as car never driven in any kind of inclement weather, only with top down.
9. Top motor works for lowering, but must manually assist upon raising.
10. Car having sat, did have a mouse problem for awhile but now resolved, wires not affected it seems, just bonnet insulation.
7. Asking $8,500
I assess this way - Obviously unique (rare?) U.S. car with manual trans. Excellent body/interior, with unique exterior color.
BUT - Engine leak, no A/C due to condenser not working, inoperable rear brakes, and occasional smoke from exhaust gives one pause.

Question - I don't do my own work --- and even if I did, Is this car overpriced at $8,500???
If all issues fixed - what would be cost - and what would new price be?
Is this a potential 20 to 30,000 car?

Thanks
Mike

 

Mike, I have a '94 6-cyl XJS conv with factory 5-speed manual. My car has about 102K and has misted white smoke on start up since I bought it 15 years ago with about 60K miles. I had it inspected at Jag dealer when I bought it and the tech -- who I've known for over 20 years -- said the smoke was due to Jag not installing exhaust valve seals in the AJ6 engine. He also told me exhaust valve seals can't be added but I've heard different opinions on this. I've also heard some of the late AJ6 engines did have exhaust valve seals, but if mine doesn't, than the car you're looking at shouldn't. Regardless, I've driven the car as my nice-weather weekend car for 15 years and loved it! The 5-speed manual makes it more of a sports car since the AJ6 doesn't create a lot of torque until higher revs, and the manual allows one to keep the engine in the higher RPM range, which creates much better responsiveness than one gets from the A/T. My car if very nice, clean, everything has been maintained and works -- I'd estimate it's worth $20K but I wouldn't sell for $25K. Frazier in Nashville has a very nice '93 manual for $24,500 and I expect he'll get close to that. IMO, these cars will appreciate more than most other XJS's. The manual makes the car so much better and they are so rare! Have the engine checked by an AJ6-knowledable Jag tech. IMO, you can't go wrong at that price unless the engine is junk. I wouldn't let the A/C and brakes keep you from buying it -- you'd have to do that stuff at some point anyway.

 

Make sure you get someone to go over it that knows Jags. First time I had mine in the shop I replace the A/C (which I had planned on) and had the steering rack rebuilt and then a few more odds and ends I never noticed prior to purchase and I was at 5K in repairs just like that. Know what you're getting and then spending on the back end becomes easier.

 

Mike,

Perhaps someone else mentioned this on the thread and I missed it, but if not, I will offer a caution. If you don't do your own work, or least a majority of it, the XJS might not be a wise choice. Odds are that you will quickly spend more than the car will be worth by time you have everything sorted and it's a legitimate daily driver.

At current values, there is a bit of Catch-22 to the XJS -- it's a fabulous classic car at a great entry price, but it's now at an age that there will be a long list of 'must dos' to keep it on the road and that list is why there are so many "cheap" examples for sale. See Grant's fantastic write up on what you'll need to do:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...-worksheet.pdf

If you do all that at a shop, it's going to get expensive. If it is a shop that isn't intimately familiar with XJS, it will be even more expensive because they won't know all the tips, tricks, and shortcuts of the beast. Even if they are XJS experts, you are going to be paying a much higher hourly labor rate for that knowledge, and all your parts are going be marked up to retail.

If you are serious about getting an XJS, I would encourage you to only do so if you are willing to get stuck in and take it on as new hobby, and learn how to do most if not all the work yourself. It's the only way that it makes any financial sense. Apologies for the discouragement, but you should go it with your eyes open and knowing what you're up against rather than suffering buyer's remorse later.

Cheers

 

If these scholars mentioned it already, I apologize.

1. I would drive for at least 30 minutes, then let it idle for 5-10 whilst crawling over / under. watch the temperature gauge.

2. V12 XJS in tune will easily lay a good strip of rubber from standstill. Test driven so many that are far too lethargic to do so. Not sure about the 6, but I'd imagine so.

Good Hunting