thud coming from the rear end
#1
#4
#5
#7
As above, plus whilst on the hoist/lift remove the central tie plate and check carefully the 4 bolts (2 on each side) that secure the inner pivot shaft brackets to the diff casing. They are wired in the factory, but every one I have seen has been loose, and the shims have fell out, which makes it all more loose (good Aussie english here), and knocking on take off, just as you describe.
These are a PAIN to check, and even worse to tighten, as to do it correctly, the shafts need to come out, and the brackets reshimmed.
If left loose, 2 things happen, 1) they sheer off, 2) the movement puts excessive strain on the 4 bolts on top of the cradle and cause the cradle itself to crack and split. Over the years I have replaced 4 cradles due to this top bolt area cracking due to the lower bolts being left loose.
These are a PAIN to check, and even worse to tighten, as to do it correctly, the shafts need to come out, and the brackets reshimmed.
If left loose, 2 things happen, 1) they sheer off, 2) the movement puts excessive strain on the 4 bolts on top of the cradle and cause the cradle itself to crack and split. Over the years I have replaced 4 cradles due to this top bolt area cracking due to the lower bolts being left loose.
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#8
yes i had a quik look at the exhaust its dificult to tell .one looks a bit close to the body .may be if i stik a rag inbetwen and se if that will identify the noise
#10
nnj
As above, plus whilst on the hoist/lift remove the central tie plate and check carefully the 4 bolts (2 on each side) that secure the inner pivot shaft brackets to the diff casing. They are wired in the factory, but every one I have seen has been loose, and the shims have fell out, which makes it all more loose (good Aussie english here), and knocking on take off, just as you describe.
These are a PAIN to check, and even worse to tighten, as to do it correctly, the shafts need to come out, and the brackets reshimmed.
If left loose, 2 things happen, 1) they sheer off, 2) the movement puts excessive strain on the 4 bolts on top of the cradle and cause the cradle itself to crack and split. Over the years I have replaced 4 cradles due to this top bolt area cracking due to the lower bolts being left loose.
These are a PAIN to check, and even worse to tighten, as to do it correctly, the shafts need to come out, and the brackets reshimmed.
If left loose, 2 things happen, 1) they sheer off, 2) the movement puts excessive strain on the 4 bolts on top of the cradle and cause the cradle itself to crack and split. Over the years I have replaced 4 cradles due to this top bolt area cracking due to the lower bolts being left loose.
#11
#12
Hahahaha, no ear rings, I saw that years ago, classic. If you get some ear rings then the Jag noises become secondary, no more problems, mmmmm.
Probably sway bar bushes, the links and or the "D" rubbers. Links are simple, grade 1 stuff, the "D" rubbers, HAVE FUN, your vocabulary will expand, very easy with the radiator out, REALLY.
Might be shocker bushes, top mainly let go on these.
Spray some "silicone lube" around in one spot at a time to try and identify the area before ripping all non-relevent stuff out of the car.
Probably sway bar bushes, the links and or the "D" rubbers. Links are simple, grade 1 stuff, the "D" rubbers, HAVE FUN, your vocabulary will expand, very easy with the radiator out, REALLY.
Might be shocker bushes, top mainly let go on these.
Spray some "silicone lube" around in one spot at a time to try and identify the area before ripping all non-relevent stuff out of the car.
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