Hello,I haven't posted much on here, but I am finally starting to work on my Jag. This was my dad's dream car, we spent a lot of weekends together driving around Arizona in it. Around 2001 or so he wasn't able to keep it on the road and ended up parking it for some minor issues. Unfortunately in that time a pack rat moved in and had a nice meal of the injector harness, spark plug wires and a few hoses and no doubt a bit more. We moved it to my house a few years ago and until recently all I have done is remove a layer of mesquite bean pods and other nesting materials.

I kept waiting for someday to start this project, and I'm making someday today. Yes, this will take a lot of work and money, but it is not needed as a daily driver and I have no need to rush this project.

So far I have cleaned up the Vee, removed the AC compressor since it was flat, removed the spark plugs, squirted some oil in and let air for a few days and was able to turn it over. I have started disassembling things so I can remove the engine. While I have it out I will replace all rubber components, rebuild the harness, check and replace the seals as needed. I definitely plan on keeping the V12 as long as it has no issues when I dive in deeper. If Dad wanted a Chevy then he would have bought a Chevy.

Next month I'm going to start building an engine run stand, using the plans from https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/diy-engine-run-stand-build-plans/ modified as needed for the V12. Does anyone have suggestions or recommendations for the stand? I like the stand Bob has on "Camp Chaos Chronicles" on YT, and hope to achieve the same concept. I figure on using 2 1/4x 2 1/4 inch square tube, and keeping the wide and low should work great for the weight and size of the engine.

Here are a few pictures, the first one is as it sits now but I put the bonnet on when I'm not working on it.
The second and third are the day it was dropped off to me.

 

That is so nice that the car is a connection to your Dad. That looked like a mouse city under the hood Looking forward to hearing about your project as you progress. Good luck!

Quentin

 

Mozambique
Thank you for the luck, I will definitely need it.
Luckily Dad is still with us, so this will be a fun project to show him the updates as I progress and hopefully one day I can take him for a ride.

 

Are you absolutely sure you need to go to all that work?
Anything less than 250,000 miles or head damage most of the time isn’t justified. I have pulled engines from junkyards and garages that were supposedly worn out or needed rebuilding. And found them to be in good shape.
That engine is remarkably durable and with the short stroke and massive bearings it has you won’t find much wear past factory tolerance. If when driven the oil was changed regularly.
The fuel injection is different. Mice chew rubber and insulation causing all sorts of problems but those are all on top and easy access.
I understand the challenge of rebuilding a V12. ( although it’s remarkably straight forward). But I would suggest rather than pull the engine you get it running. And drive it like you stole it to reseat the rings and valves. So the smoke goes away and the compression allows valve’s to reseat themselves.
I’ve raced junkyard engines. Unless the engine has been dramatically over heated causing seats to drop in which case just buy a good used one from a junkyard. That is going to be a lot cheaper than the parts and needed machine work. With a far better chance of being reliable.
Because of the EFI perfect engines commonly get thrown away. I’m

 

Mguar,
I appreciate the advice. I guess I was thinking that since the car sat for so long that I almost needed to remove the engine to work on and inspect.

I guess rebuilding the injector harness and other wire repairs are as good a place to start as another. I have picked my colors of 16 gauge GXL wire and am going to find the connectors.

 

I agree with Mguar. I do think you should pull the engine out so that you can properly clean it, easily renew any wiring such as to the starter, alternator, earth etc, and easily chnage hoses and belts, sensors, thermostast etc. Most importantly, new cam cover gaskets, sump and so on. It is also a good plan to remove the sump and sandwich plate so you can renew the oil pickup pipes' O rings which will be hardened and will need it.

While it is out do the front suspension rubbers, ball joints etc etc. But no need to get the heads off at all.
My spares car had not run between 1988 and 2009, and it started rightnup with new plugs, leads and dizzy cap!

 

I’d agree that pulling the engine is relatively easy once you pull the accessories off. But even the starter comes out easily from the top. Once things are cleared away.
But unless you are doing a repaint or ground up restoration, simply not worth it. The engine can be nicely cleaned, in place. Using engine cleaner and a pressure washer. I’ve even done an acceptable job using just the garden hose
With a father who owned it still alive. I’d do as quick a job as possible so he can enjoy it before his passing. That shared experience would be a lasting memory.
While there can be great satisfaction in a complete job, the reality of the value of those versus the public’s perception of them makes it really hard to justify. Darn few people are willing to pay the cost of a nicely restored version. Especially when the work has not been performed by a well established shop with a sterling reputation.
The premium prices are paid for numbers matching, like new 6.0 convertibles.

 

I guess before I fully decide, is it possible to replace the oil pickup pipes' O rings and other items mentioned with the engine still in the car?
I would love to spend the time and do a full clean and paint, but at the very least would like to get the car running to show as an achievement, he would understand that it is not fully road worthy, but hearing it run would make his day.

I know I could never sell the car for what I need to spend on it, but I can make the memories with my kids that I have with it. And one day it will be their problem to deal with.

 

No, oil pickup O rings require the engine to be out of the car.

 

You can buy some of the harnesses already made with the correct gauge, colours and connectors. That may be an easier way to go, then it's plug and play. If they don't have what you want, they can make you one from the old harness as a pattern.
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/finder/car/jaguar/xjs

 

Jagboi64, I will check them out. Thank you for the source.

 

When I started cleaning the engine up, I had a real hard time getting the throttle pedestal out. This needed to be removed because there was debris around the spark plugs that I just couldn't get cleared. Finally with a small wrench and awkward hard placement I was able to remove the bolts. I then scrubbed the death valley clear and started soaking the spark plugs for a few days prior to removing. Pulling them out with everything cleared out of the way was much easier then balancing swivels and extensions. I gotta give props to pops, all of the spark plugs matched which from what I have read many times is kinda rare. He certainly loved this car and tried to keep it on the road. I just wish I had his service records.

 

I've used a whole car harness from Autosparks when I did an E Type restoration, it was a great product. Everything was the right length, branched in the right place and was well made. Worth the money.

 

What makes you think the O rings and gaskets need replacement? Are they leaking now? If so then yes pull the engine and do the job properly.

I built a race car out of an early ( 1975 ) XJS for endurance racing series called Chumpcar. The rules limited the cost of the cars to $500 ( at the time). Since I found a non running, mildly rusting, car for $200 ( scrap value ) and a pair of used turbo’s for $150. Then kludged the EFI to ppl run rich enough to not hurt the engine.
It’s still running, The owner shows up periodically to the car show at a local drive in doing smoky burn outs.
My point is, it’s never been apart. That’s a 48 year old car!
What kills the Jaguar engine is the EFI or neglect.

 

I just figured that given how long it sat without running I should just replace everything that I can. When I was working on the top of the engine I found small amounts of possible oil but given everything else that occupied that space it is real hard to tell for sure.

So instead of pulling the engine now I will fix/ replace the wires as needed and replace the rubber stuff, ie fuel lines, hoses both cool and and vacuum and other stuff that was mentioned.

 

That sounds like a proper plan. I probably missed what year it is. That would determine how I treat the paint. If it’s a 70’s it will be lacquer which is very easy to deal with. ( British call it cellulose) Sometime in the 80’s Jaguar bought the GM thermal plastic paint. Yuk! The only way to deal with that is sand it down to the bare metal and replace it all!! Here’s a picture of what happens over time. This was put away in dry storage in 1989 and only brought out a year ago.
If it’s Lacquer try cutting it with a medium rubbing compound and see if it comes back to shiny. Just be extremely easy on corners or detail lines. ( do those by hand ) not with a buffer. Buy an inexpensive buffer from Harbor freight ( if you don’t have one) with pads and polishes.
No it’s not the best equipment or polish. But it’s good value. Watch a U tube video if you haven’t done it before starting.
It’s not going to be perfect but it can improve it to an amazing degree.

 

If you do the fuel lines, fuel injector harness, and ignition wiring, the car should run. Then you can do the cooling system. After that on to suspension and brakes.

 

The car is a '87, unfortunately the paint is pretty much dead. The clear is gone from about the mid way point and up. When it's wet I can run my hand on it and my hand is colored.

On another note, I just realized I didn't post a picture but Dad kept the hard top on the shed and it is in great shape unlike the soft top. So shortly after be dropped the car off I put the hard top back on. I have also kept the car mostly covered with a tarp over the years. I keep a few containers with moisture absorbent inside and after the monsoon season I open the door and run a fan throughout the car to make sure it's dry. There is a water leak at some point on the windshield, but the tarp cover has kept it pretty dry inside.


That paint looks pretty good for it's age, I bet a good wet sand will do wonders for it. Chemical Guys makes some really great products that I bet will make that look great again.

 

Saying it like that makes it seem so close, it's a short list with a ton included.

 

Its simple. Maybe not quick, but straightforward. A couple solid weekends should do it. Even if you one day decide to remove the engine, knowing it runs will provide motivation to keep going.