Hi Guys

Apparently there are two main ways of removing the Trailing Arms from a V12 XJS

One of which is to hit the Doughnut with a Hammer and Chisel very close to the peg, onto which it is bolted (Hitting on the metal inner ring)

The other way is to undo the Bolt on the other end which goes into the Hub Carrier (I think?)

I like the Bolt idea better as there seems less risk of tearing the peg out of the sill, if the Trailing arm is proving hard to get off

As for the Bolt at the other end: Is this just a Normal Bolt that Screws into the Hub Carrier or is it a Nut and Bolt?

Could I just whizz this Trailing Arm Bolt, out with an Impact Wrench?

 

Just a bolt, as I recall. As often as I've done the job you'd think I would remember for sure.

But.....

The head of the bolt is an oddball design....more like a five-headed design rather than six. I question if an impact would work. I recall using just an open-end wrench.

Others will chime in on that.

But, but.........

Going back to the 'peg' end of the arm, there's a third way to remove it. Pry it off with a long crowbar or piece of lumber. Some grunting required, and brace yourself for the breaking-free moment!

Cheers
DD

 

Hi Doug

Cheers!

The Sills aren't rotten or anything and I am sure that the Peg would take the Impact from a Hammer and Chisel, it's just that it doesn't seem right and I cannot visualize that way being described in any Workshop Manual

I've been putting this job off for a long time now, as it seems so complicated that I was starting to wonder if I was able to do it, so just for a bit of a back up plan in case it all goes wrong I got a couple of quotes to do the Job

Replace the Brake Discs and Calipers: around £900 to £1,000

No exclamation mark on that as this was almost exactly what I was expecting

So we will have to see

 

Remove the bolt on the large side of the trailing arm while the car is on the ground. Then pop it off with a large pry bar. With the trailing arm level it is not under tension and should pop off fairly easily. If not leave the bolt out and go for a relaxed drive on a bumpy road and try again. If that doesnt work use a hole saw or torch to destroy the rubber. Then use a dremel or cut off tool to split the remaining collar. A few superficial slices will weaken it so it will stretch and come off with out damage to the body side.

 

The small end of the arm cannot be removed from the hub unless the pin to which the lower shock absorbers are fixed is removed first.
Believe me OB, a whack on the other end will do it as described. It is the shock to the join, provided by the whack, that releases the bush and its cup from the chassis cup. Hitting the join provides the required shock. I have tried with pry bars (and if it works for others, all good) but never had any joy, as IMO there is nowhere suitable to get proper purchase on the metal parts involved.

 

Hi icsamerica

That will be my Nuclear Option if all else fails!

Thanks for your help

 

Hi Greg

Just when you need a blunt Chisel! (doh!)

I'll probably end up giving your method a try but taking a Hammer and Chisel to 'The Ice Princess' will not come easy

 

I use a pinch bar, standing at wheel well bar angled down with tip in direct contact with bush inner upper edge, apply some leverage force and strike other end of bar, bush normally just pops off.

 

I just had my trailing or radius arm out yesterday. Had a clunk coming from it. Funny story.

I Ordered four bushes, new bolts for both ends, and even new bendy washers and I wait.
Weekend! Parts are here!
No press, so I go to the store and get the 6 ton bench top press.
Assemble the press. At the last step I realize there’s no arbor plates in the box. Back to the store with press in the back of the truck.
They give my some plates from another kit. Back to the house.
Chock her, jack her up, put her on stands, take the wheel off. Arm is clunky for sure. Glad there’s a safety strap.
Pull shocks pin back, get the rear mount loose, move to the front.
Safety wire is broken.
Bolt is loose.
Bushes are fine.
Drink.

 

Depending on the amount of rust present the large bushing can be a devil to get off the body. Impact is definitely the trick here, what I have had great success with is to have a large pry bar to exert downward force and simultaneously use an air chisel on the inner metal portion of the bushing - not the cup on the body, it's easy get the two mixed up if there is rust and dirt on it.

Give the bushing a good bashing with an air chisel and the arm usually vibrates right off. I have a bit for my air chisel that is a V shaped blade, the V goes onto the bushing. When reassembling, I use an antiseize grease to coat the cup on the body and that ensures I can get them off easily in the future.

 

Hi Jagboi

That idea sounds right up my Street, as I happen to have an Air Chisel and also a Large Pry Bar, which sounds a lot less 'Hit and Miss' (pun intended!) than belting it off with a Hammer

So that's the way I think I am going to go

Potentially a 'Great Idea!' I'll let you know how I get on, assuming that I can manage to find the Air Chisel