Hello all,

in the process of doing my engine, the tranny is due too... So new fluid and gaskets where required.

Currently my TH400 has the original drainplugfree sump and a cork gasket. The cork is crumbling all around the sump and wheaping. Is there a better gasket out there, other than the cork stuff? I mean something like the newer Goretex gaskets as fitted to the valve covers...?

At the same time: as I will be regularly servicing the tranny fluid, I'd like a sump with a dran plug - hate the message it makes at the moment... Grrr. Has anyone seen any sumps for the TH400 with dran plug that fit and can be used? I mean, the last thing I can do with is a sump which warps, crack or worse, always leaks... It can't be any worse than at the moment

Cheers guys!

Damien

 

Daim
If you do a google search for Moroso gm400 gaskets and transmission pans you will get plenty of info. I have one of these moroso gaskets
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...3103/overview/
Extremely good, steel core, reuseable. I put a smear of copper hi temp gasket stuff each side and NO leaks.


Transmission pans are also available, the B&M ones have drains plugs, but they are at the wrong end, on our cars the box tilts towards the front and the B&M drain plugs are at the rear.
Last year I treated myself to one of these, twin magnetic drainplugs at the downhill end. Absolutely top notch.
Moroso 42020 | Buy Moroso Transmission Pans at JEGS
Greg

 

NO gasket is what I have done for 20+ years on ALL the Jags.

I use Red Hi-Temp RTV.

SUPER clean the pan face and the trans case. The trans case can be an issue as fluid runs down ALL the damn time, thanks to gravity, but if left overnight will cease.

Make up 4 studs with screwdriver slots in one end. Fit them in the 4 corners.

Run a 6mm bead of the RTV around the pan OUTER edge, with a "loop" around each hole.

Slide the pan over the 4 studs, and push up until it JUST CONTACTS the trans case. Fit the other bolts and tighten until you see a nice squish of RTV around the pan, STOP. Remove the 4 studs and fit the 4 bolts, and secure them as you have the rest of the bolts.

Let the RTV setup, about 4 hours or more. I leave it overnight.

Now turn each bolt 1/2 turn more, THATS IT.

Remember I DO NOT run that silly colision bracket nonsense, so my pan is off in minutes as compared to hours.

Look at some of the "Speeed Shops" for a TH400 pan with drain plug, they were around in thousands years ago. I have never bothered. I suck the fluid out via the dipstick tube annually, and do the pan off for filter every 3 years.

 

A quick side question... Cam someone measure the height of their sump? I think I have a deeper sump as the filter was on some extensions!?

Regarding the liquud seal instead of a gasket: I'm not so keen on that... I would love to but I doubt it would seal well enough At least not with my luck!

Regarding the other sumps and gaskets: cheers for the links! They do help me a good bit further. Though I am now wondering what has been done to my tranny. The fluid looked fine... Nice darker red (not black not brown) and very little metal abrasion ...

 

That filter has a pick up plastic tube that pushes into the top grommet of that filter. That tube has an o/ring on the other end that seals against the pump inlet hole.

The filter is then attached by a single "special" bolt to the valve body.

Deeper pans are out there, and with drain plugs. I have seen one on a group members car, and that plug hung down below the exhaust line, and he was not happy with that. It was certainly going to get belted sooner or later.

Never had a leak from the RTV, EVER.

The first one I did, agreed, I have the SHAKES something serious, but all good. Now I simply just do it, no thought involved at all.