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Subject: 96' XJS, 4.0, 54,000 miles. The trans fluid was just changed last year. But going forward, what is the correct procedure for changing the fluid ? I know the fluid itself can be changed. But should the pan be removed and a filter screen be changed also ?
Transmission Flush is the best method. Replaces 100% of your transmission fluid and purges accumulated particles and deposits from the entire transmission. Fluid is expelled from your transmission using a cooler line flushing machine or a pump inlet. The transmission pan is inspected and cleaned, the filter replaced. A complete batch of new, pure ATF is added.
Yes - change the filter screen or, at least, thoroughly clean out the original. BE CAREFUL, the Jaguar parts website lists the wrong part number for a 4 litre autobox filter. The only error in the Jaguar system that I am aware of. I advised them a number of years ago but they still haven't changed it. And every major supplier uses the Jaguar system to quote part numbers. So DO NOT buy the Jaguar quoted number from any supplier. It will not fit and you can't refit the sump pan. I will post back and tell you the correct part number tomorrow.
- If you don't a power flush done, you must change the fluid a number of times, otherwise it's almost a waste of time doing it just once. The system has a total capacity of 9 litres including the gearbox, torque converter, oil cooler and pipes. If you drain the sump and then refill, you will change a maximum of 2.6 litres. So you'll still have 72% dirty fluid. I did 9 changes in all. I drained and refilled, ran the car for 5 miles, did it again and again etc. I did 5 changes, then dropped the sump and changed the filter, then did 4 more changes. That changes very roughly 95% of the dirty fluid. Then I do a drain and refill every year as routine maintenance.
So, power flush or multiple drain and refills. Transmission fluid is cheap, gearboxes are expensive!
Hey Guys, thank you so much for your replies. Much appreciated.
I turn 73 this May. I don't mind working above the vehicles, but don't much want to work under them anymore. LOL But I do have a good independent shop nearby that is very familiar with the earlier Jags. So I'm lucky in that regard.
The reason for my original question was that many of the later vehicles (of any make, and without dip-sticks) seem to require a power flush only. But if I read you correctly, my 96' XJS is still old-school enough to want a power flush AND the pan removed and filter changed. At least to do the job properly. That is what I thought. But confirmation from you Guys is most helpful. Thank you again.
Keesh: Love the colors of BOTH your Jags. Would guess they are both rare colors.
Paul: Yes, please. If you have the correct part number, that would be great. I'll keep it with my owners manuals.
Installing a drain plug in the pan makes drain-n-fill a lot easier. And after you have 100% fresh fluid and filter it's an easy (and almost irresistable) thing to do a drain-n-fill a couple times a year....giving your fluid a regular "freshen up". This is an extra-speedy exercise if you measure exactly how much has drained out so you an refill with that exact amount....eliminating the need to even check the fluid level afterwards!
Personally I don't think frequent filter changes are useful. IME they very seldom are in any way restricted and, if they are....the trans has greater problems than a new filter can solve.
The correct part number for the oil screen filter is JLM664.
DO NOT buy JLM2128 which is the part number that Jaguar and therefore all the independent suppliers quote. The sump pan will NOT fit with this filter. The filter needs to be the one without the "neck".
Jaguar are offering 20% off parts at present if you use the discount code SPRING20
Also, many of the 4 litre sumps do not have a drain plug (mine does!). So if you're dropping the sump to change the screen, you'll need to use a fluid extractor, or risk spilling fluid, even if you carefully disconnect the dipstick tube! And even if you do have a sump plug on yours, you'll see that it's not at the lowest point. That's why I use a fluid extractor anyway to drain the fluid as I can get the extraction pipe lower in the sump via the dipstick tube. See pics below for the correct screen filter, sump plug location and my oil extraction approach.
If you are doing a powerflush, the thing that will annoy your mechanic is that the oil pipe attachments are at the top of the gearbox, very close to the insulation which starts to crumble away. It can get messy up there! That's why I didn't do a flush myself that way, and did multiple drain and refills instead.
03-24-2023, 11:08 AM
