transmission sticks in 2nd gear
#1
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When I press accelerator down to the point where you feel a hesitation and if I go past that point all the way to floor it drops into passing gear and stays in that gear when I let off accelerator and the only way it will shift as it is suppose to is park the car till the motor gets cool.
If I do not go past the hesitation point it will down shift and works as it should. Any suggestions? Thank you
If I do not go past the hesitation point it will down shift and works as it should. Any suggestions? Thank you
#2
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Grant Francis (07-21-2017)
#4
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I put a new modulator, 73,000 miles on car. How to fix the slide valve?
Last edited by macdoesit; 07-21-2017 at 07:44 AM.
#5
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Grant is probably right. Check the modulator.
Based on on your description of the throttle action another possibility is your lockdown switch or its slide activating mechanism on the throttle cable is sticking. Easily checked by disconnecting one of the switches connections.
Based on on your description of the throttle action another possibility is your lockdown switch or its slide activating mechanism on the throttle cable is sticking. Easily checked by disconnecting one of the switches connections.
#6
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macdoesit (07-21-2017)
#7
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Thank you, I will check that out tomorrow and post the results.
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#8
#9
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I cleaned the slider and lubed,it was moving back and forth maybe 1/4" and coming back to the screw that is in the cable, also about 8" south of there is a set screw that moves a switch and I messed with it readjusting.
It still gets stuck in passing gear but now I'm able to get it to shift into 3rd by kicking the accelerator a few times which it would not do before.
There are 2 electrical plugs under the metal plate and an electrical plug at the southern location I mentioned, could these switches be bad or is there something else I need to do?
#10
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The switch under the metal plate could be faulty. Meter it and actuate it and make sure it's going open reliably. It can also be cleaned and lubricated. The spade connectors on it and the plug are both fine or it would not be able to cause the kickdown.
The cable slide is still the most likely villain here. It may require more invasive cleaning / refurbishment.
In the meanwhile, I'd disconnect a spade on the switch. I'd rather have no accelerator-triggered kickdown than randomly be stuck in 2nd.
The vacuum actuated kickdown modulator should still provide kickdown when you demand a big throttle and without reaching the slide activation portion of the stroke. I don't know the spec, but on mine, any significantly heavy foot will trigger it just when you'd expect it.
Im assuming yours is fine since it's newly replaced but if you're not getting any kickdown unless you're hitting the slide mechanism then you may have a vac leak.
The cable slide is still the most likely villain here. It may require more invasive cleaning / refurbishment.
In the meanwhile, I'd disconnect a spade on the switch. I'd rather have no accelerator-triggered kickdown than randomly be stuck in 2nd.
The vacuum actuated kickdown modulator should still provide kickdown when you demand a big throttle and without reaching the slide activation portion of the stroke. I don't know the spec, but on mine, any significantly heavy foot will trigger it just when you'd expect it.
Im assuming yours is fine since it's newly replaced but if you're not getting any kickdown unless you're hitting the slide mechanism then you may have a vac leak.
#11
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The switch under the metal plate could be faulty. Meter it and actuate it and make sure it's going open reliably. It can also be cleaned and lubricated. The spade connectors on it and the plug are both fine or it would not be able to cause the kickdown.
The cable slide is still the most likely villain here. It may require more invasive cleaning / refurbishment.
In the meanwhile, I'd disconnect a spade on the switch. I'd rather have no accelerator-triggered kickdown than randomly be stuck in 2nd.
The vacuum actuated kickdown modulator should still provide kickdown when you demand a big throttle and without reaching the slide activation portion of the stroke. I don't know the spec, but on mine, any significantly heavy foot will trigger it just when you'd expect it.
Im assuming yours is fine since it's newly replaced but if you're not getting any kickdown unless you're hitting the slide mechanism then you may have a vac leak.
The cable slide is still the most likely villain here. It may require more invasive cleaning / refurbishment.
In the meanwhile, I'd disconnect a spade on the switch. I'd rather have no accelerator-triggered kickdown than randomly be stuck in 2nd.
The vacuum actuated kickdown modulator should still provide kickdown when you demand a big throttle and without reaching the slide activation portion of the stroke. I don't know the spec, but on mine, any significantly heavy foot will trigger it just when you'd expect it.
Im assuming yours is fine since it's newly replaced but if you're not getting any kickdown unless you're hitting the slide mechanism then you may have a vac leak.
It has kick down and runs perfect until I push all the way and activate the slide mechanism, that is how I have been driving it. A GM mechanic once told me to disconnect the lock in lock out switch, I assume that is the same switch you are referring to ?
I will try cleaning the switches as you suggest.
What is that other switch that is south of the slider?
If it still does not shift right after cleaning I will disconnect the switch and drive it that way till I replace the switches.
I will let you know what happens.
Thank you again for all the info it has been very helpful.
#12