Turns over well but doesn't start
#21
My apologies. There are two additional wires (the 5th and 6th, right in front of my eyes) coming out of the AB 14 that go to the base of the distributor through a flattish plug. At first glance the two at the AB 14 look and feel secure, I cleaned them with contact cleaner. The other ends going through the flattish plug and dizzy look good, but I can't get to them to tug and look closer. I'll look again during the day with better light and very long forceps.
#23
JD = Jack Daniels, first rule of Jag diagnostics.
The lack of 12v at the coil +ve terminal with the ign in the ON position is your problem.
That is most likely to be the electrical section of the ignition switch, quite a common issue due to old age. That switch bit is easily cleaned once removed, and that is a master of nimbleness to get at the dumb TINY (and I mean TINY) screw holding it to the mechanical section.
YES, there is a shielded wire, from the amp TO the ECU in the boot, BUT, it only controls the fuel supply circuits and has NOTHING to do with spark, or lack of.
There MUST BE 12v to the +ve terminal of the coil, or the engine is DEAD.
The lack of 12v at the coil +ve terminal with the ign in the ON position is your problem.
That is most likely to be the electrical section of the ignition switch, quite a common issue due to old age. That switch bit is easily cleaned once removed, and that is a master of nimbleness to get at the dumb TINY (and I mean TINY) screw holding it to the mechanical section.
YES, there is a shielded wire, from the amp TO the ECU in the boot, BUT, it only controls the fuel supply circuits and has NOTHING to do with spark, or lack of.
There MUST BE 12v to the +ve terminal of the coil, or the engine is DEAD.
#24
The V12 is number 1 - 6 down each side from the front, and A is the RH side, and B is the LH side.
R & L are always taken sitting IN the car and facing forward, and has NOTHING to do with which side the steering wheel is mounted. That is the best way to describe what you are looking at/for, as "drivers side" etc does depend on the drive market of the car. as in LHD/RHD.
That switch is not causing your spark issues, and it will be there somewhere I reckon.
#25
Indeed.............excellent rule, excellent whiskey.............wonderful automobiles.
Thank you so much for that Grant. I'll study the ignition switch area to see if I can get in to it.
Would someone be able to post a sketch of the ignition switch portion of the 1989 XJS wiring diagram? Thank you.
Thank you so much for that Grant. I'll study the ignition switch area to see if I can get in to it.
Would someone be able to post a sketch of the ignition switch portion of the 1989 XJS wiring diagram? Thank you.
#26
Grant,
The trim piece over the ign switch that's imprinted with the 0-1-2-3 came off okay, but is still hanging from a wire that's attached to a "lightbulb" thing on the backside of the trim piece. Not sure how to get that "bulb" thing out, not even sure it is a bulb as it doesn't seem to light. The round ign switch has four small, silver colored screws holding a plastic piece on the underside of the switch. There are two copper/gold colored screws holding two wires to the plastic piece. There's also a fifth silver screw holding a flat metal piece that's supporting the two wires. The left part of the ign switch mechanism looks like it extends toward the steering column. I'm not sure where to go next to get the switch out. I see a larger silver screw about 2" or so in from the switch face, on the right side, resting in a horizontal position. That screw will be a challenge to get to if it needs to come out before the switch. Do you think I can do this repair? I've thought about spraying contact cleaner into the switch. What's your thinking? Thanks very much.
The trim piece over the ign switch that's imprinted with the 0-1-2-3 came off okay, but is still hanging from a wire that's attached to a "lightbulb" thing on the backside of the trim piece. Not sure how to get that "bulb" thing out, not even sure it is a bulb as it doesn't seem to light. The round ign switch has four small, silver colored screws holding a plastic piece on the underside of the switch. There are two copper/gold colored screws holding two wires to the plastic piece. There's also a fifth silver screw holding a flat metal piece that's supporting the two wires. The left part of the ign switch mechanism looks like it extends toward the steering column. I'm not sure where to go next to get the switch out. I see a larger silver screw about 2" or so in from the switch face, on the right side, resting in a horizontal position. That screw will be a challenge to get to if it needs to come out before the switch. Do you think I can do this repair? I've thought about spraying contact cleaner into the switch. What's your thinking? Thanks very much.
#27
OK,
The bulb thingy is as you said, NOT a bulb, it is the end of a fibre optic strand, and it simply pushes in, and they are a mongrel to get out at times. It should move far enough out of the way to access what you need.
The electrical section is held by a tiny "phillips" headed screw from the side, and on the RHD is at about "4 o'clock", which on a RHD is kind of easy to get at haha, and I thought they may have moved that for LHD, but maybe not. I have attached a snap of one of my old ones out of the switch, which may help??.
IF you are lucky enough to get some stuff to dribble in, I have never been so lucky, it may assist.
I ALWAYS open that switch inside a plastic bag, as it has springs inside and sometimes they take off, and in the bag is better than the garage floor, mmm.
Mine have all got the plug removed as I use that switch to 'simply" switch relays, that do what the switch once did, and I reckon the removal of the "load" from that switch is a good idea. The XJ-S was done in 1997, and NO ign issues since. Even if the switch gets a bit offish, the small amount of current needed to actually switch a relay is usually available, as apposed to "full current" to actually operate some component.
Somewhere in the shed I have the colour chart for that switch, and I will go looking tomorrow, after my 1 day a week at "work".
The bulb thingy is as you said, NOT a bulb, it is the end of a fibre optic strand, and it simply pushes in, and they are a mongrel to get out at times. It should move far enough out of the way to access what you need.
The electrical section is held by a tiny "phillips" headed screw from the side, and on the RHD is at about "4 o'clock", which on a RHD is kind of easy to get at haha, and I thought they may have moved that for LHD, but maybe not. I have attached a snap of one of my old ones out of the switch, which may help??.
IF you are lucky enough to get some stuff to dribble in, I have never been so lucky, it may assist.
I ALWAYS open that switch inside a plastic bag, as it has springs inside and sometimes they take off, and in the bag is better than the garage floor, mmm.
Mine have all got the plug removed as I use that switch to 'simply" switch relays, that do what the switch once did, and I reckon the removal of the "load" from that switch is a good idea. The XJ-S was done in 1997, and NO ign issues since. Even if the switch gets a bit offish, the small amount of current needed to actually switch a relay is usually available, as apposed to "full current" to actually operate some component.
Somewhere in the shed I have the colour chart for that switch, and I will go looking tomorrow, after my 1 day a week at "work".
#28
#29
Grant and Kind Others,
The cat is running!! Not sure why. I didn't find anything obvious. All I did was remove two pieces of trim from around the ign switch and jiggle the whole ign switch assembly, never opened it up. It started right off. There's now 12 V at the +ve on the coil when in the second switch position, which I didn't have before. Still zero V in the first position, as before. I went ahead and sprayed some electrical contact cleaner into the switch, it's still starting.
Grant and other Good People who assisted, thank you, thank you very, very much for your input. I'm most grateful.
Regarding the broken full fuel switch, the dealer may have sent the wrong replacement, full fuel micro switch, kickdown switch. It actually has one extra contact leg. That in itself didn't seem an issue at first glance. After testing continuity however, both legs make a closed circuit with the common until the arm/lever is depressed as during kickdown, then one leg is open. I was thinking the circuit should be open until kickdown, then the circuit is closed (the arm is depressed) and activates something with the fuel. Shouldn't the circuit be open (no current) until kickdown, then closed?
Thank you all again.
The cat is running!! Not sure why. I didn't find anything obvious. All I did was remove two pieces of trim from around the ign switch and jiggle the whole ign switch assembly, never opened it up. It started right off. There's now 12 V at the +ve on the coil when in the second switch position, which I didn't have before. Still zero V in the first position, as before. I went ahead and sprayed some electrical contact cleaner into the switch, it's still starting.
Grant and other Good People who assisted, thank you, thank you very, very much for your input. I'm most grateful.
Regarding the broken full fuel switch, the dealer may have sent the wrong replacement, full fuel micro switch, kickdown switch. It actually has one extra contact leg. That in itself didn't seem an issue at first glance. After testing continuity however, both legs make a closed circuit with the common until the arm/lever is depressed as during kickdown, then one leg is open. I was thinking the circuit should be open until kickdown, then the circuit is closed (the arm is depressed) and activates something with the fuel. Shouldn't the circuit be open (no current) until kickdown, then closed?
Thank you all again.
#31
Grant and Kind Others,
The cat is running!! Not sure why. I didn't find anything obvious. All I did was remove two pieces of trim from around the ign switch and jiggle the whole ign switch assembly, never opened it up. It started right off. There's now 12 V at the +ve on the coil when in the second switch position, which I didn't have before. Still zero V in the first position, as before. I went ahead and sprayed some electrical contact cleaner into the switch, it's still starting.
Grant and other Good People who assisted, thank you, thank you very, very much for your input. I'm most grateful.
Regarding the broken full fuel switch, the dealer may have sent the wrong replacement, full fuel micro switch, kickdown switch. It actually has one extra contact leg. That in itself didn't seem an issue at first glance. After testing continuity however, both legs make a closed circuit with the common until the arm/lever is depressed as during kickdown, then one leg is open. I was thinking the circuit should be open until kickdown, then the circuit is closed (the arm is depressed) and activates something with the fuel. Shouldn't the circuit be open (no current) until kickdown, then closed?
Thank you all again.
The cat is running!! Not sure why. I didn't find anything obvious. All I did was remove two pieces of trim from around the ign switch and jiggle the whole ign switch assembly, never opened it up. It started right off. There's now 12 V at the +ve on the coil when in the second switch position, which I didn't have before. Still zero V in the first position, as before. I went ahead and sprayed some electrical contact cleaner into the switch, it's still starting.
Grant and other Good People who assisted, thank you, thank you very, very much for your input. I'm most grateful.
Regarding the broken full fuel switch, the dealer may have sent the wrong replacement, full fuel micro switch, kickdown switch. It actually has one extra contact leg. That in itself didn't seem an issue at first glance. After testing continuity however, both legs make a closed circuit with the common until the arm/lever is depressed as during kickdown, then one leg is open. I was thinking the circuit should be open until kickdown, then the circuit is closed (the arm is depressed) and activates something with the fuel. Shouldn't the circuit be open (no current) until kickdown, then closed?
Thank you all again.
DRINKS ALL ROUND, THEN SOME MORE.
That micro switch should be as described by you, soooooo, go to radio Shack ( i think that is your mob up there), and get what you need. Send the other back to the dealer, if its worth the effort.
At some stage that switch will haunt you again, BUT, now your an expert, the fix will be simple, wont it ?????.
Enjoy the BEAST.
The following users liked this post:
Evo160K (06-17-2012)
#33
[quote=Grant Francis;529870]HAHAHA DAMN WE'RE GOOD.
DRINKS ALL ROUND, THEN SOME MORE.
[quote]
Grant it's a pitty you're in SA and I'm in Syd I like your style.
BTW this was in our last JDCA mag
Q: Doctor, I've heard that cardiovascular exercise can prolong life. Is this true?
A: Heart only good for so many beats, and that it... Don't waste onexercise. Everything wear out eventually. Speeding up heart notmake you live longer; it like saying you extend life of car by drivingfaster. Want to live longer? Take nap.
Q: Should I reduce my alcohol intake?
A: Oh no. Wine made from fruit. Brandy distilled wine, that mean they take water out of fruity bit so you get even more of goodness that way. Beer also made of grain. Bottom up!
Q: How can I calculate my body/fat ratio?
A: Well, if you have body and you have fat, your ratio one to one. Ifyou have two body, your ratio two to one.
Q: What are some of the advantages of participating in a regular exerciseprogram?
A: Can't think of single one, sorry. My philosophy: Nopain...good!
Q: Aren't fried foods bad for you?
A: YOU NOT LISTENING! Food fried in vegetable oil. Howgetting more vegetable be bad?
Q : Will sit-ups help prevent me from getting a little soft around themiddle?
A: Oh no! When you exercise muscle, it get bigger. Youshould only be doing sit-up if you want bigger stomach.
Q: Is chocolate bad for me?
A: You crazy?!? HEL-LO-O!! Cocoa bean! Anothervegetable! It best feel-good food around!
Q: Is swimming good for your figure?
A: If swimming good for figure, explain whale to me.
Q: Is getting in shape important for my lifestyle?
A: Hey! 'Round' is shape!
And remember:
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways - Chardonnay (or Shiraz) in one hand - chocolate in the other - body thoroughly used up,totally worn out and screaming "WOO-HOO, what a ride!!"
DRINKS ALL ROUND, THEN SOME MORE.
[quote]
Grant it's a pitty you're in SA and I'm in Syd I like your style.
BTW this was in our last JDCA mag
Q: Doctor, I've heard that cardiovascular exercise can prolong life. Is this true?
A: Heart only good for so many beats, and that it... Don't waste onexercise. Everything wear out eventually. Speeding up heart notmake you live longer; it like saying you extend life of car by drivingfaster. Want to live longer? Take nap.
Q: Should I reduce my alcohol intake?
A: Oh no. Wine made from fruit. Brandy distilled wine, that mean they take water out of fruity bit so you get even more of goodness that way. Beer also made of grain. Bottom up!
Q: How can I calculate my body/fat ratio?
A: Well, if you have body and you have fat, your ratio one to one. Ifyou have two body, your ratio two to one.
Q: What are some of the advantages of participating in a regular exerciseprogram?
A: Can't think of single one, sorry. My philosophy: Nopain...good!
Q: Aren't fried foods bad for you?
A: YOU NOT LISTENING! Food fried in vegetable oil. Howgetting more vegetable be bad?
Q : Will sit-ups help prevent me from getting a little soft around themiddle?
A: Oh no! When you exercise muscle, it get bigger. Youshould only be doing sit-up if you want bigger stomach.
Q: Is chocolate bad for me?
A: You crazy?!? HEL-LO-O!! Cocoa bean! Anothervegetable! It best feel-good food around!
Q: Is swimming good for your figure?
A: If swimming good for figure, explain whale to me.
Q: Is getting in shape important for my lifestyle?
A: Hey! 'Round' is shape!
And remember:
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways - Chardonnay (or Shiraz) in one hand - chocolate in the other - body thoroughly used up,totally worn out and screaming "WOO-HOO, what a ride!!"
The following users liked this post:
Grant Francis (06-22-2012)
#34
DAMN THAT IS ME TO A "T".
Had the human Vet yesterday, usual "oldy stuff", got a distemper shot, apparently I'm getting grumpy, and wants me to drink more water, HAHAHAHAHA, he is a Vietnamese Vet, Jag lover, Merc owner, sad man, same age as me, same warped sense of life as what you wrote.
I went next door and got 2 Crownies and asked him, "is this water concentration OK", he laughed and we consumed them both as he had finished for the day.
Had the human Vet yesterday, usual "oldy stuff", got a distemper shot, apparently I'm getting grumpy, and wants me to drink more water, HAHAHAHAHA, he is a Vietnamese Vet, Jag lover, Merc owner, sad man, same age as me, same warped sense of life as what you wrote.
I went next door and got 2 Crownies and asked him, "is this water concentration OK", he laughed and we consumed them both as he had finished for the day.
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