uneven exhaust
#1
uneven exhaust
I noticed today that my exhaust is stronger from my driver side (A Bank) than the passenger side. I believe the driver side cats may have been cleaned or gutted since I noticed some weld marks on them. I would like to get rid of the cats all together. I'd like to get the thoughts of those on the forum. Should I gut the cats or go with a new stainless system. The biggest problem I see is that I have to do this work myself since no exhaust shop can legally perform the work. I would love to hear some experiences in this area.
Thanks...Jimmy
Thanks...Jimmy
#2
I noticed today that my exhaust is stronger from my driver side (A Bank) than the passenger side. I believe the driver side cats may have been cleaned or gutted since I noticed some weld marks on them. I would like to get rid of the cats all together. I'd like to get the thoughts of those on the forum. Should I gut the cats or go with a new stainless system. The biggest problem I see is that I have to do this work myself since no exhaust shop can legally perform the work. I would love to hear some experiences in this area.
Thanks...Jimmy
Thanks...Jimmy
I would recommend going to non cat engine pipes. Mine were made by Bell and are a work of art.
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JayCee (06-16-2016)
#5
The A bank is RH side of the car. If yours is a LHD car the drivers side is the B bank. You need to make sure the A bank is firing on all cylinders.
DO NOT GUT THE CATS, unless they are the ones inside the down pipes. Doing so will hurt flow.
If the exhaust system is still in good condition then I would replace the Cats with high flow units, this will keep the car legal and in a road car not effect power very much.
The down pipes are very restrictive and I have heard from numerous V12 engine builders that where the pipes are joined there is more often than not intrusions of one pipe into the flow region.
DO NOT GUT THE CATS, unless they are the ones inside the down pipes. Doing so will hurt flow.
If the exhaust system is still in good condition then I would replace the Cats with high flow units, this will keep the car legal and in a road car not effect power very much.
The down pipes are very restrictive and I have heard from numerous V12 engine builders that where the pipes are joined there is more often than not intrusions of one pipe into the flow region.
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JayCee (06-16-2016)
#6
The engine runs fine, firing on all cylinders. My state doesn't have inspections, so I am not concerned with being legal. I don't want to replace the cats because of the cost. I will probably just gut the cats since that seems the easiest and cheapest way to go.
How difficult is it to remove the down pipes, does anything else have to come off in order to get them out?
...Jimmy
How difficult is it to remove the down pipes, does anything else have to come off in order to get them out?
...Jimmy
#7
You'll need to pull the steering rack heat shields (super easy) spray some PB Blaster liberally on the nuts and just use some extensions and deep well sockets, really not hard to do. I put all four of my tires up on ramps and jacked up the front even more to allow comfortable room. Sprayed them down and waited till the following morning. Jaguar uses a steel, long nut with a brass locking insert so corrosions not usually an issue unless someone's been there before and improperly replaced them.
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JayCee (06-16-2016)
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#9
JTsmks....I checked the workshop manual and the 5.3 and 6.0 have very different exhaust systems. My 94's down pipe has an extra cat in it (lucky me!). I will probably wait till fall to start this project, just to hot this time of year. I plan on a complete cooling system overhaul also. I'll jack her up and get it all done at once.
Thanks to all for your inputs...Jimmy
Thanks to all for your inputs...Jimmy
#10
Way back in the precat era, kids wanted exhaust noise. An "on the cheap" way was to "gut" the mufflers. And that was done on the cheap by some. Remove them and use a stout bar to knock out the cambers.
A bit more sophisticated way was to cut them open, remove the baffles and reweld the case.
I had a couple of 36 HP VW's back in the day. first a 56 small window sedan and then a 60 Red cabro.
I wanted a little exhaust tone. Each had two chrome tips from transverse muffler. In turn the tips had a bit of lining. MNaking them a bit of a silencer. I used a big sharp screw driver. Inserted into each tip. A few whacks with the BFH. Chamber punctured. Much better...
Carl
A bit more sophisticated way was to cut them open, remove the baffles and reweld the case.
I had a couple of 36 HP VW's back in the day. first a 56 small window sedan and then a 60 Red cabro.
I wanted a little exhaust tone. Each had two chrome tips from transverse muffler. In turn the tips had a bit of lining. MNaking them a bit of a silencer. I used a big sharp screw driver. Inserted into each tip. A few whacks with the BFH. Chamber punctured. Much better...
Carl
#11
But, cats do work. Modern ones are much less restrictive. I like clean air as much as anybody. So, my cars have them.
The V8 has a true dual exhaust. Two cats, then an "H" pipe, two
Jaguar mufflers, and then two small glass packs. Curved Jag tips in place. It pours very contentedly and reveals it is indeed a V8, not a six!!!
Carl
The V8 has a true dual exhaust. Two cats, then an "H" pipe, two
Jaguar mufflers, and then two small glass packs. Curved Jag tips in place. It pours very contentedly and reveals it is indeed a V8, not a six!!!
Carl
#12
But, cats do work. Modern ones are much less restrictive. I like clean air as much as anybody. So, my cars have them.
The V8 has a true dual exhaust. Two cats, then an "H" pipe, two
Jaguar mufflers, and then two small glass packs. Curved Jag tips in place. It pours very contentedly and reveals it is indeed a V8, not a six!!!
Carl
The V8 has a true dual exhaust. Two cats, then an "H" pipe, two
Jaguar mufflers, and then two small glass packs. Curved Jag tips in place. It pours very contentedly and reveals it is indeed a V8, not a six!!!
Carl
Do you have an IR thermometer? Measure the temps before and after the cats and you will know if they are working, and in this case whether one is gutted.
#13
#15
#18
Efficiency has gone up a lot from things like variable valve timing and most cars now, including your new acura, use EGR instead of secondary air injection.
I had to check my cars emissions once, and they were incredibly low. Do you have some info that convinced you that secondary air injection actually doesn't burn excess fuel in the exhaust like it is meant to or that the catalytic converters in the XJS don't decrease harmful emissions?
I had to check my cars emissions once, and they were incredibly low. Do you have some info that convinced you that secondary air injection actually doesn't burn excess fuel in the exhaust like it is meant to or that the catalytic converters in the XJS don't decrease harmful emissions?
#20
For what it's worth...I believe the emission controls in the last 10 - 15 years are working and doing the job we want them to do. Mostly because of the computer controls available in new cars. I wouldn't even consider touching my 2016 Acura's emissions, because they work. The older cars (like my 94 jag) had emission controls that accomplished little or nothing to reduce emissions. The cats clogged up and caused cars to burn to the pavement. The air pump is a joke, it does nothing for emissions. Emission controls in older cars only made them unreliable and reduced performance.
My 2 pennies....Jimmy
My 2 pennies....Jimmy
No, they work. Or worked, past tense. As the decades go by some of the systems on old cars are no longer working properly, no doubt.
But as the years went by automobile emissions really DID go down in the grand scheme of things... even if some of the early attempts were not all that great compared to what we have now.
Talk to someone who lives in a big city (like Los Angeles) in 1965 and ask them to compare air quality to 1995. The difference over 30 years is remarkable.
Cheers
DD