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One thing I am very particular about is rattles in general and exhaust knocks in particular. So a few months ago i was turning sharp right at relatively low speeds and gave the car some serious beans halfway through the corner. Cue desperate exhaust noise!
Up on the ramp, could not see anything, but tucked it away for my subconscious to work on.
Lo and behold about 6 weeks ago I found myself thinking: RH turn = LHS suspesnion loaded up = LHS driveshaft therefore getting closer to the over-axle pipe = I wonder!
So as Madame and the nippers are away, thus my life is a riot of odd meals at odd times and spending as much time fixing things as I like, and Massey Ferguson hydraulics having been successfully renewed, and door rust spot having been reasonably well bodged up, time to get the car up on ramp again.
Very careful inspection revealed a clear witness-marked pencil-line width of shiny steel on the bottom of the over axle pipe right above the inner driveshaft UJ yoke! I reckon not more than about 0.2 mm of interference was happening, but the noise it made has horrendous. Picked out in blue in this photo:
So having removed the pipe (pretty easy with tranny jack supporting the exhaust box) it was modded as follows:
The bracket holding the pin that engages in the cage-top support was on short legs welded to the pipe. I cut these legs and removed about 1/4 of an inch of their length, then rewelded the bracket: Bracket legs shortened at the pipe end Bracket having been cut off Rewelded onto the over axle pipe
This has the effect of raising the over axle pipe by about 1/4 of an inch; the pipe was refitted and tomorrow I will test to see it the mod works. Certainly the entire system is higher that it was, and the triangular fitting between the silencer box and the over axle pipe is not so near the front of the cage as it was, and the pipe itslef is further away from the caliper than it was, all of which is good news.
I can get the pipes off the calipers on my car, but I can't KEEP them off. After a few hundred miles I get the tapping again. It's a pain. I have speed bleeders, and the pipe comes just barely into contact with the elongated nipple off of the caliper, both sides. PITA. It's wearing on the brake lines and that can't be good.
I had the same problem with the Hooped Exhaust Pipes coming off their Pins and getting way too close to the Calipers for comfort
So I removed the Original Pins (a simple spanner job as you know) and then made up some Longer Pins out of a Piece of Studding and am very pleased to say that this made all the difference
Modding the Exhaust Hanger Pins on the Hooped Exhaust Pipes to keep them away from the Calipers (a very quick Mod that took no time at all and was well worth doing)
Good morning, Alex... I hear ya and struggled with getting the pins to ride in those carriers at ALL when I first got into ol Cherry Pie. The entire exhaust was a hodge podge of pipes, cats and clamps in the area of the downpipes...The pins were not even in the carriers. I did manage to get them in and that held for a while,,, but when I first started driving I still had the knocking and tapping. One eventually fell out. That didn't sound good.
Then, my first go around removing the cage I repaired the bushing casing on one side (had started to crack), replaced the rubber bushes and even the little hard orange vulcanized plastic insert that goes in there (a real wrestling match until I dipped the rubber bushings in hot water and used pliers and dish soap to wrestle the inserts in). I then squished a 1/2 board between the OAx pipe and the caliper while tightening everything up, things were good for a while, but the knocking and tapping came back once things "settled"...
Another thing - the hoses that come off of the speed bleeders adds extra length to the exit piping off the calipers. But it sounds like the tapping happens even without the bleeder set up - even with regular bleed nips? Anyways,
Let me ask, I can't remember... Would adding a longer pin allow one to move the entire exhaust over the axle towards the front, towards the rear, or just allow a slight but different orientation altogether - which would help with the spacing? Somethings gotta give. It's a small/light tapping, but it's gotta GO!
I'm such a chicken ****... I have MIG welder. Granted, I don't have place where I can weld and plug the unit directly into wall socket,,, would have to use an extension cord... But that's not the issue,,,
I've NEVER welded!!! My dad was a professional (and good) welder. I never learned. I DO have a Snap On 120 decent quality MIG welder (bought it from a nutter in the streets of NYC),,, but I've never used it. I've never welded and am intimidated. I've bought gloves, a helmet and even some wire, watched 1000 YouTube videos - then I just LOOK at it all, lol... Chicken LIVERS.
I figure if I tell on myself,,, well, you get the idea.
In Answer to your First Question, it all depends on the length of the Pins but if you use Threaded Studding, then you are able to Vary the Length until you find the Sweet Spot
As for Mig Welding, its easier than it looks but what you need more than the Videos, is lots and lots of Practice on pieces of Scrap Steel until the Arc is making a Sound like Frying Bacon, though sometimes you have to Stitch Thin Stuff just one small tack at a time, although with Thicker Metal, you can run a Continuous Bead, although you should sometimes Space it out to avoid distortion and then back fill in the spaces
Lucky you having a 'Snap On' ! quite possibly one of the Best makes on the market!
As for Wire Size I prefer .08 but it all depends on the Thickness of what you are Welding
It also isn't Cheating to hold the Torch with both hands (assuming right handed) Hold the Torch with your Right Hand and then rest the Swan Neck of the Torch, on the Crook of your Left Hand, between your Thumb and Fore Finger, then you will have a lot more Control and an Automatic Self Darkening Helmet is a real game changer, as its so much easier to see what you are doing
Practice makes Perfect is all you have to remember
I'm already thinking that you are OD on that, as I don't know anyone else who would drop the IRS Cage on the Streets of NYC on a burning hot day, fix the problem and then put it back!
an Automatic Self Darkening Helmet is a real game changer
It sure is - better still a true color one - I splashed out and it is night and day - important selection with MIG is the gas - many come with CO2 only but that is way too 'hot' - a mix that is mostly argon is much better especially on thin stuff. Other mistake many make is not cleaning the weld area sufficiently.
Courage - yeh dropping a subframe on a public street - that takes cajones...
08-09-2022 | 12:41 PM
Unusual exhaust noise
