V12 timing (Lucas)
#21
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Okay, I'll delete the right side (passenger) and run the fuel line direct and plug the vac line.
I haven't tested the left (drivers) side yet. I only have an hour here and there to work on it because I work 12-14 hour night shifts. Can anyone give me a part number for the left one? I want to make sure I order the correct one.
I double checked the timing and with the crank at TDC-0 degrees, the rotor is pointing directly at #1 cylinder. At the moment the adjustment is turned all the way clockwise as far as it will go. Is that something I will have to change? I can't get my tired brain to determine if that is in the retard or fully advance position.
I haven't tested the left (drivers) side yet. I only have an hour here and there to work on it because I work 12-14 hour night shifts. Can anyone give me a part number for the left one? I want to make sure I order the correct one.
I double checked the timing and with the crank at TDC-0 degrees, the rotor is pointing directly at #1 cylinder. At the moment the adjustment is turned all the way clockwise as far as it will go. Is that something I will have to change? I can't get my tired brain to determine if that is in the retard or fully advance position.
#22
#23
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Okay, I'll delete the right side (passenger) and run the fuel line direct and plug the vac line.
I haven't tested the left (drivers) side yet. I only have an hour here and there to work on it because I work 12-14 hour night shifts. Can anyone give me a part number for the left one? I want to make sure I order the correct one.
I double checked the timing and with the crank at TDC-0 degrees, the rotor is pointing directly at #1 cylinder. At the moment the adjustment is turned all the way clockwise as far as it will go. Is that something I will have to change? I can't get my tired brain to determine if that is in the retard or fully advance position.
I haven't tested the left (drivers) side yet. I only have an hour here and there to work on it because I work 12-14 hour night shifts. Can anyone give me a part number for the left one? I want to make sure I order the correct one.
I double checked the timing and with the crank at TDC-0 degrees, the rotor is pointing directly at #1 cylinder. At the moment the adjustment is turned all the way clockwise as far as it will go. Is that something I will have to change? I can't get my tired brain to determine if that is in the retard or fully advance position.
The distibutor rotates anti-clockwise, so moving the casing clockwise will ADVANCE the timing. I always set a HE at 8deg BTDC static, and make sure the adjuster cam is set so that you can give it a tad more advance as you tune/time it be ear, which is the way I do them. I forget which way the cam turns the casing, I have NEVER touched mine since setting them 10 years ago.
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JameyXJ6 (12-09-2011)
#24
#25
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Part number for the LH (outlet) fuel pressure regulator is:
EAC4864.
I had a Bosch listing for it somewhere, but cannot find it at the moment.
I gave up on those vac regulators waaaaaay back, and fitted a PreHE regulator on mine, and manually set it to suit the engine requirements (about 31psi from memory), and have never had issues with running or performance. Best of all NO raw fuel can ever be sucked into the inlet manifold, NO vac lines used.
EAC4864.
I had a Bosch listing for it somewhere, but cannot find it at the moment.
I gave up on those vac regulators waaaaaay back, and fitted a PreHE regulator on mine, and manually set it to suit the engine requirements (about 31psi from memory), and have never had issues with running or performance. Best of all NO raw fuel can ever be sucked into the inlet manifold, NO vac lines used.
#26
#27
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HA, got 12gig of info, write ups whatever on my dabblings with my V12's, lots of photos also.
Still got the car, so if I have not taken a Kodak of something, ask, I will oblige.
Since I am NOT computer clever, too damn old to grasp it, I have failed to achieve uploading success to this site, pity really. So send me your email address and I will send all you want. If you are smarter than me and find a way of putting what you reckon are suitable on here, DO SO.
Still got the car, so if I have not taken a Kodak of something, ask, I will oblige.
Since I am NOT computer clever, too damn old to grasp it, I have failed to achieve uploading success to this site, pity really. So send me your email address and I will send all you want. If you are smarter than me and find a way of putting what you reckon are suitable on here, DO SO.
#29
#30
#31
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Quick update:
I rechecked the timing according to Grant's suggested starting point and was only slightly off, so I made the adjustment. Then, I discovered a break in the shielded wire that feeds into the ignition module, as well as a couple bare wires that were touching that go to the TPS.
I fixed those and the car started right up, however the plugs were so drowned in gas from the last time I started the car that not all were firing.
Next step will be to replace the plugs AGAIN..maybe some better ones than the Champions as I've never had much luck with them anyway.
I'll update again once I've had time to work on it!
I rechecked the timing according to Grant's suggested starting point and was only slightly off, so I made the adjustment. Then, I discovered a break in the shielded wire that feeds into the ignition module, as well as a couple bare wires that were touching that go to the TPS.
I fixed those and the car started right up, however the plugs were so drowned in gas from the last time I started the car that not all were firing.
Next step will be to replace the plugs AGAIN..maybe some better ones than the Champions as I've never had much luck with them anyway.
I'll update again once I've had time to work on it!
#32
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Todays update: I changed the plugs and upgraded them to a better brand. The car started right up and smoked. I expected that as it had flooded pretty bad and the plugs I replaced had been badly fuel-fouled.
The smoking only improved a little as it warmed up. It's still dumping too much fuel through the injectors. Grant suggested I check the TPS voltage at the square 3 pin plug with ignition on and I'm getting 5 volts from 2 of them and 1.2 volts on the third. I suspect there must be a short there somewhere and Grant is cross checking the voltage in his for me.
This has got to be one of the most frustrating cars I've run up against!
The smoking only improved a little as it warmed up. It's still dumping too much fuel through the injectors. Grant suggested I check the TPS voltage at the square 3 pin plug with ignition on and I'm getting 5 volts from 2 of them and 1.2 volts on the third. I suspect there must be a short there somewhere and Grant is cross checking the voltage in his for me.
This has got to be one of the most frustrating cars I've run up against!
#33
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HAHAHAHA, I had a stupid 3 week period a while back and actually had a BMW 740iL, now that was a frustrating car. The V8 is a fine bit of engineering, but the wiring and access to ECU's, and there were 7 of them, was woeful. The placement of electrical components bore NO resemblence to where any location drawings stated they were.
Threw it out of the driveway after 3 weeks, do not miss it one bit.
Threw it out of the driveway after 3 weeks, do not miss it one bit.
#34
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Can't recall wire colors but you ought to have 5v between two (not from both to ground, I believe) - the ECU sends 5v to the TPS and expects .32-.36v back to it at idle - so if you are sending 1.2v back to it at idle the ECU thinks you are at about 1/4 throttle and is mapping the fuel as such. Whichever wire you got 1.2v on, adjust the TPS until you're seeing .32-.36v at idle.
#35
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Darel, I was trying to figure out which one was sending the 5V. There is only 3 and one should be a ground. I unplugged the TPS and measured voltage from the ECU side of the harness and found voltage coming from all three positions in the plug. 2 of them had 5V, the third had 1.2V.
My guess is there is a short in the harness that I have to chase down.
My guess is there is a short in the harness that I have to chase down.
#37
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I don't think I'm explaining this quite right...
The 3 wire plug to the TPS that comes from the ECU should have 1 ground, a 5V and the third is probably the return voltage to the ECU.
I have power going to all 3 with the TPS unplugged. There is no adjustment on the harness side. If I have power coming from ground, I can only assume there is a short in the loom
The 3 wire plug to the TPS that comes from the ECU should have 1 ground, a 5V and the third is probably the return voltage to the ECU.
I have power going to all 3 with the TPS unplugged. There is no adjustment on the harness side. If I have power coming from ground, I can only assume there is a short in the loom
#38
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Green wire is 5 volt
Yellow wire is ground
Red is the potentiometer "wiper"
TPS voltage is checked between the red and yellow wires
If there is + voltage on all three wires at all times, at the harness side, then some wires are definately crossed somewhere, somehow
Just for giggles see if anything changes when the air temp and coolant temp sensors are disconnected, as they're wired into the TPS harness
Cheers
DD
Yellow wire is ground
Red is the potentiometer "wiper"
TPS voltage is checked between the red and yellow wires
If there is + voltage on all three wires at all times, at the harness side, then some wires are definately crossed somewhere, somehow
Just for giggles see if anything changes when the air temp and coolant temp sensors are disconnected, as they're wired into the TPS harness
Cheers
DD
#39