XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

V12 water rails

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  #21  
Old 07-31-2014, 06:23 AM
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It seems to be hard to get copper piping in 19 mm (3/4") diameter here... Only 18 mm or 22 mm available. I can get polished stainless steel in 19 mm though... Might actually buy some of that instead... Highly polished looks nice too
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:43 AM
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different approach! CHROME.
pix water pipes, front crossover and side pipes, plus my coated exhaust manifolds.

looks dirty,been driven it and it shows, been 20yrs.

coating cleans up nice with WD40(when cold).

also my front aluminum crank pulley, and(for real) a VIPER power steering pump(very light weight). notice all chrome head nuts.
 
Attached Thumbnails V12 water rails-jag-strut-brace-mom-ridin-shot-gun-v12-exhuast-mani-008.jpg   V12 water rails-jag-strut-brace-mom-ridin-shot-gun-v12-exhuast-mani-009.jpg   V12 water rails-jag-pulley-viper-pump-001.jpg   V12 water rails-jag-pulley-viper-pump-002.jpg   V12 water rails-jag-cooling-pipes-001.jpg  

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  #23  
Old 07-31-2014, 02:44 PM
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Looks good, but I think chrome would be a tad too much. My goal is a German H plate and that requires everything to be as original as possible. So it means a black bypass and either steel or copper rails
 
  #24  
Old 07-31-2014, 02:52 PM
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I don't know about their shipping policy, but Zoro had the correct size copper pipe.

Copper Water Tubing, Type K by MUELLER INDUSTRIES - Copper Pipe and Tubing at Zoro
 
  #25  
Old 08-03-2014, 11:14 AM
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question about electrolitic action?
copper can turn green and can produce aluminum decay! trash in the cooling system.

iron is bad enough, but SS makes sense.

aluminum tubing can be polished to a high luster, and compatible to aluminum heads and block!

just a thought about cooling pipes.
 
  #26  
Old 08-03-2014, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ronbros
question about electrolitic action?
copper can turn green and can produce aluminum decay! trash in the cooling system.

iron is bad enough, but SS makes sense.

aluminum tubing can be polished to a high luster, and compatible to aluminum heads and block!

just a thought about cooling pipes.
Cheers!

As the engine has coolant mix, it should prevent corrosion. So that shouldn't be an issue... But as I am going the stainless route (can't get 3/4" pipes here in copper, only highly polished stainless so that is fine)... Cheers for the input!
 
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:02 AM
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Little update...

The stainless steel pipe arrived. The water rails are cleaned and sandblasted. The engine lift brackets are sprayed in heatresistent black.

Just waiting for:
Gaskets
Screws
Seals
Sensors
Half moons (decided on taking original rubber ones due to TüV reasons)
Nuts and bolts
Decals

I'll be doing loads more at the same time
 
  #28  
Old 06-09-2020, 10:19 AM
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Default Coolant leak

Did the coolant stop leaking after engine warmed up?
 
  #29  
Old 06-09-2020, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Daim
Hey there,

well, I'm moving on with my XJ-S and have discovered leaking water rails... Yes, those "darn" pipes... It is leaking from the area where the pipe is pushed into the rubber bush. I assume the pipe has corroded and the rubber is brittle.

Oddly, it didn't leak there before (at least not that I could tell) I filled the system with new coolant. Looking at the "slurry" I got out before flushing it, I think it was run without antifreeze...

Anyhow, I've read that these pipes are "wear and tear" parts which seem to require regular maintance. Has anyone got a recommendation for some good replacement pipes? Stainless steel or copper? Maybe even brass? Being only a short pipe should require rocket engineering

As far as I have seen, I need to remove the entire water rails - from front to rear. 4 little gaskets per side (bodies to engine) and 4 rubber bushs.

Is there anything else I should consider changing at the same time? Thermostats: done. Hoses: done. The extra air valve is a brand new part (original Lucas) so that doesn't need to be replaced...

I was thinking about doing all the sensors at the same time... Other suggestions?

Cheers

Damien
Absolutely agree that you need to put a graduated restrictor in the water Rails. Especially for high speed( racing) applications.
The way I did it was fabricate plates to the gasket size drilled the center hole in the back plate to full size and the front plate only has a 1/4” inch hole. It goes gasket, plate, gasket, water rail.
On a race car I welded up my own water rail and reversed the flow to the firewall then ran a tube back to the radiator so water had to flow from front to back . I used an aftermarket aluminum radiator which is no where near as good as the stock radiator but it’s lighter, ( and cheaper) even with a really inferior radiator the car stayed cool no matter how hard I pushed.
.
 
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